Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

Did an x-ray make it into the A's at the worlds?

I do belive tho that the x-rays tend to be an easy car to get working well, while the tamiyas are more difficult. Either is plenty fast enough in capable hands.

junn

iTrader: (5)

I had an Evo 3, and that handled so well, like it was on rails, so I am expecting the 415 to handle as well without the hassles of stripped gears.

Tamiya has come such a long way with their cars since the TA03. They seem to actually be competitive now.

I remember seeing the TRF TA03R kit a friend of mine had, $200 more expensive than an HPI Pro2, yet the Pro2 kicked its ass, I always thought I would stay with HPI, not now

Thanks for your help and advice

alan1467

I selling a Tamiya TRF "DJ" Pro-Module Rear Suspension System on Ebay


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...sPageName=WDVW

Alan

Ballsie

Hi Alan,

You have PM.

Cheers.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Junn,

One Question first, what tyres? Most of what I say here refers to rubbers... other people shoudl be able to help with foams.

Regarding the LWT suspension, If you get an MS version, you won't need the conversion, as the car already comes with it. If it's the std car your looking at, deffiently consider the LWT kit, if more than anything for the wider range of shock position tuning it offers.

For the Worlds kit (the other part you mention) the bar things are the narrow suspension blocks (generally refered to as the X series blocks). Basically on a 415, you can change the inboard toe angle (and width of the car) by changing these blocks. The range goes (widest to narrowest) D, C, B, A, X, XA, XB, XC, XD, each with a 0.5deg change in toe angle, but also with a progressively narrower car. I.E. a D/B combination provides 1 deg, as does a B/X, however the B/X will result in a narrower car than D/B.

To be honest, the X series blocks are not a must have on their own to start with, although they do have some benifits 1) if you get the worlds kit, you also get 0deg toe-in alloy hubs (a very wise buy... holds the smaller, 950 size hub bearings better, reducing failure, which the 950's are prone too), all the toe is set inboard, and then the X series make more sense. ie D/XA produces 3deg of toe, which is probably a good bet for mod.
2) On the front, the blocks can be flipped (as is shown in this pic: block flip ) allowing more options of tuning on the front, a favourite being running inboard toe-out (usually around 1deg).

One other usuful thing to get with the car is a Spool. I've recently been running the new tamiya one with delrin outdrives, it's very nice, and provides a very useful performance boost. Of course you need a locked centre pulley to replace the 1-way pulley, but if you get a worlds kit, you get one anyway.

Other bits and bobs: For the std car, MS spec shock towers work well with LWT suspension, also the DJ suspension is pretty spot on too, but not a must have to start with. The belt stabiliser is a good bet too, as are the white belts (although I have heard the Echo ones are good too), but not sure if these are required for an MS.

Apart from that, stock up on the usual's (wishbones, C-hubs, steering blocks), as well as getting a good range of the previously mentioned suspension blocks (at least 2 of each... but does depend which car, std or MS)

Hopefully some of it makes sense.... it'll make more when you get a 415

Anymore questions feel free to ask

Oh and one final thing... have a look at the link in my sig. Admitadly I haven't updated it in a while, but as I've now graduated uni (2:1 baby!), I have more time on my hands to put to that sort of thing. I have a few more setups and extras to put on there... some time in the nearish future

Phew long post.....NEXT!

Ballsie

Take a long breath Ed - nice post

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Anyway, moving on from the last post, ran on slippy wooden floors for the first time in a long time.... still managed to finish 3rd in the A, which was a very pleasing result. Ended up with a very strange setup though, was hunting for steering all day. Actually the setup reminded me of a post a long time ago about how at a German championship, racers were setting their cars up with really stiff rear ends, even with 1-ways, just in the hunt for steering.

Anyway, ended up with dual 1-ways, Std suspension, with yellow front springs, and blue rear... by the end of the day, I'm pretty sure it was one of the fastest, if not the fastest car there, just need a) a bit more luck, and b) a better driver...

One thing it did teach me though was don't be afraid to try something, even if you think it goes against whats "proper"... believe me I would never have tried harder rear springs if I hadn't heard about it before...but it worked a treat!

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

aye.... but straight back into it

pete68

iTrader: (1)

hi !
if i have a trf 415 can it be converted to a 415msx but keeping the 415 suspension or i have to change it to the ms version first !!
thanks!!
Pete68

dean-oz

when running a 19t motor in trfms
which would be better
3300 or 3700 ? why

Tommy Bergfeldt

From what i've been told, you'll only be able to adjust the wheelbase 1 or 2 mm because the blocks sit closer to each other, but that's nothing a little machinig could fix

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Ok, I've just been thinking about the MSX for a second, and something doesn't quite add up.

From whats been stated, the kit would work with either a std car, or an MS. However, with there being a fudamental difference in the hinge pins of the MS and std (std car has longer), what happens here.... I mean if the kit comes with positions for the blocks for an MS (ie using the shorter hinge pins) does that mean us peeps who have a std car are gonna have to buy the short pins too?

Can anyone shead some light on this?

prdquik

The way I understand it is you have to have the LWS on the standard 415 for the upgrade to work. Check out Tamiyas website it talks about the upgrade kit.

neosan

Hey TryHard,

New tamiya spool ????

neosan

Hey TryHard,

Where you get the Tamiya Spool ???