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Old 03-29-2005, 03:10 AM   #7996
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hebiki
dumb question (sorry guys ) but where do you buy replacement blades?
Dude, did you get a yoko BD?
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Old 03-29-2005, 06:30 AM   #7997
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hebiki
dumb question (sorry guys ) but where do you buy replacement blades?
The corally ones (RDX) fits perfectly, better than the ones given by jurgen.
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Old 03-29-2005, 09:39 AM   #7998
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Default Toe Blocks

Ok, answering my own question after some research. The measurements in the manual for the MS seem to be off by 1/2 degree! At least compared to Losi hubs on my setup station.

My XXX-S shows exactly 1.5 toe on both sides, when it's setup for 1.5 toe. The MS shows 2.25 (right around there) on both sides when setup for 1.5 deg (1c rear 1x front and 0 deg hubs). So, I'm going to swap in the 1b block in the rear and measure again.

This would mean the stock setup has about 2.5 rear toe in, or maybe a little more.... no wonder the car is so stable

Anyone find the same?

Mike

Last edited by SCML; 03-29-2005 at 10:37 AM.
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Old 03-29-2005, 10:17 AM   #7999
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Default Re: Toe Blocks

Quote:
Originally posted by SCML
Ok, answering my own question after some research. The measurements in the manual for the MS seem to be off by 1/2 degree! At least compared to Losi hubs on my setup station.

My XXX-S shows exactly 1.5 toe on both sides, when it's setup for 1.5 toe. The MS shows 2.25 (right around there) on both sides when setup for 1.5 deg (1c rear 1a front and 0 deg hubs). So, I'm going to swap in the 1b block in the rear and measure again.

This would mean the stock setup has about 2.5 rear toe in, or maybe a little more.... no wonder the car is so stable

Anyone find the same?

Mike
I've just measured (accurately bear in mind) the angle by a simple calculation (using pythagorus), and the angle between A and B blocks gives 0.55 toe per side on the MS.

This is because the blocks were originally designed for the TRF 414, which used 51.3mm hinge pins, as opposed to the 46mm ones off the MS, hence the toe angle increases slightly.

Still, it's definately not the blocks that are wrong, so I guess it's a moulding defect in the hubs, either you had wrong ones or the molding tolerances are not good enough.
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Old 03-29-2005, 10:33 AM   #8000
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TRF415boy - "pythagorus" I bet have been dying to use that word in a post, comon, you know you have.

In my last post, I meant to say X block, instead of A, which should give 1.5, C/A should be 1.0, box setup, or maybe 1.1 as your measurements would indicate.

Did you measure with the shafts and suspension balls installed in the blocks as well?

I've got the aluminum 0 degree hubs, they say 0 on them, so I would hope they are 0 degree, lol.

I only have my experience with the Losi, which has 2 degrees of toe in the blocks, and with the 1/2 deg hubs reversed, you get 1.5 degrees, which it shows exactly on my setup station. Either that is some kind of luck, or Losi and my setup station are far enough off, and then cancel each other out to get the correct measurement.

With the normal play in the suspension, C/X blocks and 0 degree hubs give me between 2.25 and 2.0 depending on which way I load the arms, not 1.5 like it should. All the accuracy in the world off the car makes no difference to me, it's not showing anywhere near 1.5 it should be. Maybe my C block is not really a C block?

I want to try less rear toe, and my next option is the B rear block, or going back to the A front block. I'll try both.

Thanks for the input,

Mike
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Old 03-29-2005, 10:40 AM   #8001
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hebiki
dumb question (sorry guys ) but where do you buy replacement blades?
Jurgen can make and sell them.

BTW, the spool is gooone
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Old 03-29-2005, 10:41 AM   #8002
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Quote:
Originally posted by SCML
TRF415boy - "pythagorus" I bet have been dying to use that word in a post, comon, you know you have.

In my last post, I meant to say X block, instead of A, which should give 1.5, C/A should be 1.0, box setup, or maybe 1.1 as your measurements would indicate.

Did you measure with the shafts and suspension balls installed in the blocks as well?

I've got the aluminum 0 degree hubs, they say 0 on them, so I would hope they are 0 degree, lol.

I only have my experience with the Losi, which has 2 degrees of toe in the blocks, and with the 1/2 deg hubs reversed, you get 1.5 degrees, which it shows exactly on my setup station. Either that is some kind of luck, or Losi and my setup station are far enough off, and then cancel each other out to get the correct measurement.

With the normal play in the suspension, C/X blocks and 0 degree hubs give me between 2.25 and 2.0 depending on which way I load the arms, not 1.5 like it should. All the accuracy in the world off the car makes no difference to me, it's not showing anywhere near 1.5 it should be. Maybe my C block is not really a C block?

I want to try less rear toe, and my next option is the B rear block, or going back to the A front block. I'll try both.

Thanks for the input,

Mike
There is the same increasing in size between the blocks in each step. That means on the MS, you'll have 1.65 toe with X/C.
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Old 03-29-2005, 10:50 AM   #8003
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Quote:
Originally posted by TRF415boy
There is the same increasing in size between the blocks in each step. That means on the MS, you'll have 1.65 toe with X/C.
And yet I show it over 2 degrees.... Imperial Vs Metric degrees??

Thanks again for the input. I'm going to stick with my current measuring technique, and use "Losi Degrees", as it seems my equipment is most accurate this way.

Mike
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Old 03-29-2005, 11:04 AM   #8004
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Quote:
Originally posted by SCML
And yet I show it over 2 degrees.... Imperial Vs Metric degrees??

Thanks again for the input. I'm going to stick with my current measuring technique, and use "Losi Degrees", as it seems my equipment is most accurate this way.

Mike
All i'm saying is that it does not come from the blocks, unless as you said, you were given a wrong X or C block.

Distance between the centre of the hinge pins axles on the X block should be 42.4mm (unless i got a wrong X-block, and there's no way i can tell that, lol) and the C should be 44.7mm. By the way, I took the opportunity to measure the angle the X/C combination gives and it's 1.6. This is not using a jig, this it using a precision caliper and mathematics.


So look somewhere else than the blocks (unless you find that yours are not the proper size), try swapping your L/R hubs and see what happens, maybe they don't really give 0...
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Old 03-29-2005, 11:59 AM   #8005
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Thanks,

I'm going to try swapping the hubs, they may not quite be 0. That might be a good thing, as I could get a measurement in between 2.0 and 1.5 if they are off enough... as long as both are. I'll also try different blocks to see what I end up with on my jig.

You are either an engineer or an engineering student, and while I can appreciate the perfect science of engineering, it ain't always the same in practice. . All I need is my setup jig to tell me I've got 1.5 deg of rear toe per side.

I know I couldn't measure center to center on the hinge pins within half a millimeter, , so good on ya!

Mike
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Old 03-29-2005, 02:06 PM   #8006
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Does anyone know if this part is available to be purchased separately or do you have to order the swaybar set or something to get it?

9805817 Stabilzer Ball
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Old 03-29-2005, 02:49 PM   #8007
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you mean these?
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=271&id=1595

regards
Ed
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Old 03-29-2005, 03:18 PM   #8008
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or these:

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=271&id=1748

Steve Wang
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Old 03-29-2005, 03:30 PM   #8009
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steve/tryhard.

neither of those...

it's the small piece that goes into the adjuster...then the screw you use to go through the arm to mount the swaybars threads into that.

in the 415 manual it lists that as the part number....what you guys listed are stablizers ball ends.

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Old 03-29-2005, 03:34 PM   #8010
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the piece labeled BN2 on page 9 of the manual

BN2
part #9805817

http://home.comcast.net/~anthony.isl...5/113_1354.JPG
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