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Old 07-25-2005, 06:54 PM   #9511
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pete68
hi !
if i have a trf 415 can it be converted to a 415msx but keeping the 415 suspension or i have to change it to the ms version first !!
thanks!!
Pete68
The MS suspension uses 46mm suspension shafts. The regular 415 uses 48 or 48.5mm suspension shafts. As long as you have more than 2.5mm of spacers already on your regular 415, you will be able to use them. You would just need to get the 46mm suspension shaft set which is Tamiya P/N 51093.
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Old 07-25-2005, 07:11 PM   #9512
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Kevin CBR: thats basically what I'm talking about... Guess I'll have to chop the pins down... wheres my dremmel

Neosan: I got mine from Rainbow Ten. Part #49358. Link: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=49358

HiH
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Old 07-25-2005, 07:47 PM   #9513
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I got the new Tamiya spool from RainbowTen. Part number 49358.
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Old 07-25-2005, 08:01 PM   #9514
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If you are going to chop down pins get some xray inner hinge pins the material
is far better than the tamiya hinge pins.

James
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Old 07-25-2005, 08:02 PM   #9515
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Thank you guys !!!

I think is late... I've seen the list and is gone !!!
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Old 07-26-2005, 04:20 AM   #9516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Junn,

One Question first, what tyres? Most of what I say here refers to rubbers... other people shoudl be able to help with foams.

Regarding the LWT suspension, If you get an MS version, you won't need the conversion, as the car already comes with it. If it's the std car your looking at, deffiently consider the LWT kit, if more than anything for the wider range of shock position tuning it offers.

For the Worlds kit (the other part you mention) the bar things are the narrow suspension blocks (generally refered to as the X series blocks). Basically on a 415, you can change the inboard toe angle (and width of the car) by changing these blocks. The range goes (widest to narrowest) D, C, B, A, X, XA, XB, XC, XD, each with a 0.5deg change in toe angle, but also with a progressively narrower car. I.E. a D/B combination provides 1 deg, as does a B/X, however the B/X will result in a narrower car than D/B.

To be honest, the X series blocks are not a must have on their own to start with, although they do have some benifits 1) if you get the worlds kit, you also get 0deg toe-in alloy hubs (a very wise buy... holds the smaller, 950 size hub bearings better, reducing failure, which the 950's are prone too), all the toe is set inboard, and then the X series make more sense. ie D/XA produces 3deg of toe, which is probably a good bet for mod.
2) On the front, the blocks can be flipped (as is shown in this pic: block flip ) allowing more options of tuning on the front, a favourite being running inboard toe-out (usually around 1deg).

One other usuful thing to get with the car is a Spool. I've recently been running the new tamiya one with delrin outdrives, it's very nice, and provides a very useful performance boost. Of course you need a locked centre pulley to replace the 1-way pulley, but if you get a worlds kit, you get one anyway.

Other bits and bobs: For the std car, MS spec shock towers work well with LWT suspension, also the DJ suspension is pretty spot on too, but not a must have to start with. The belt stabiliser is a good bet too, as are the white belts (although I have heard the Echo ones are good too), but not sure if these are required for an MS.

Apart from that, stock up on the usual's (wishbones, C-hubs, steering blocks), as well as getting a good range of the previously mentioned suspension blocks (at least 2 of each... but does depend which car, std or MS)

Hopefully some of it makes sense.... it'll make more when you get a 415

Anymore questions feel free to ask

Oh and one final thing... have a look at the link in my sig. Admitadly I haven't updated it in a while, but as I've now graduated uni (2:1 baby!), I have more time on my hands to put to that sort of thing. I have a few more setups and extras to put on there... some time in the nearish future

Phew long post.....NEXT!
Try Hard you da man!!!!!!

thanks for your time, I didnt realise there was so much to setting up a 415. Thats why someone said the Xray was easier to setup because of the pivot ball suspension, but I am still going with the 415

The 415 I am buying is standard, second hand. I am definately geting the LW suspension and the MS upgrade kit and the MS shock towers but I am confused about the DJ suspension, can you have that and the LW kit installed at the same time?

what does installing the front blocks upside down achieve? whenyou say that you can create toe out on the front is that inboard as well and not in the turnbuckles?

Sorry for the 20 questions

thanks for your help, oh yeah, I am running rubbers, dont like foams
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Old 07-26-2005, 04:26 AM   #9517
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Hi

one more question, whats a good pinion/spur setup for a Trinity D6 12 turn d?

its a short windy track, thats for a 415

thanks again
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Old 07-26-2005, 04:42 AM   #9518
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Junn, If you are running 48 pitch, I like to work with a 78t spur. As for pinions, depends on what size tracks you race at. With a 12x2 D6 I would probably start with a FDR of 8.00-7.50. It really comes down to your track size & layout.
So that would be a 78t spur & a 22-23 pinion. The internal ratio of the 415 is 2.187/1.

Since your on rubbers, thats a roll out of 25mm-26mm.
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Old 07-26-2005, 04:47 AM   #9519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junn
Try Hard you da man!!!!!!
thanks for your time, I didnt realise there was so much to setting up a 415. Thats why someone said the Xray was easier to setup because of the pivot ball suspension, but I am still going with the 415
Not sure which xray your on about, from what I can remember, the last one to use piviot ball suspension was the evo2, about 2 years ago..
To be honest though, the range of adjustments on the 415 is one of the things I like about it (and I'm sure others hate) because there is always something new to try out. I've been running the car for well over a year now, and am still nowhere near finished trying things out on the car. Don't worry though, the base setup is pretty spot on, I just like to fiddle

Quote:
Originally Posted by junn
The 415 I am buying is standard, second hand. I am definately geting the LW suspension and the MS upgrade kit and the MS shock towers but I am confused about the DJ suspension, can you have that and the LW kit installed at the same time?
Good idea on the LWT suspension, same with the workds kit (which i assume what you mean with regard to the MS upgrade.). The DJ... sorry Pro-Module Suspension, is designed to be used with the Lwt arms. Basically it replaces the rear arms with the special DJ Setup, which allows much softer rear springs and shock oil, meaning the car can cope better with bumps. Quick piccy: Pro-module 1 Pro-module 2 David Junn himself explained it a while back on this thread, can't remember what page though, sorry.

Quote:
Originally Posted by junn
what does installing the front blocks upside down achieve? whenyou say that you can create toe out on the front is that inboard as well and not in the turnbuckles?
Basically on the front of the car, you limitied a little with what you can do with the rear suspension block, because of the front belt. Originaly there were only two options for the front the D bridge (Std on the orignal 415), and the optional A bridge. These are different to the std blocks, by having a raised portion in the middle to clear the front belt. This left a limited number of options for width and inboard toe.
To solve this problem, a number of racers modified there other blocks, allowing them to be "flipped", and pushed up with spacers, so they could clear the belts. The X-series blocks are already modified to allow them to be flipped from the off (they even come with the required spacers), as displayed in the pic.
One other advantage is that it allows you to drop the rear hinge pin point, relative to the front. Whilst adding kick-up, it also lowers the roll centre.

Regarding inboard toe, I tend to find it adds mid-corner steering to the car, which is espesically useful with a spool. I was running 1.5deg on inboard, but have now dropped back to 1deg. At the moment thats a C/A combo, but i have the std suspension on for indoor running, outdoor I was running A/XA

Quote:
Originally Posted by junn
Sorry for the 20 questions

thanks for your help, oh yeah, I am running rubbers, dont like foams
No prob, glad I can help. One thing i forgot to add, get a couple of On-road spring sets too. Tamiya yellows work well, but for indoor work, blues and even whites work best.

Ed
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Old 07-26-2005, 04:54 AM   #9520
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Forgot one more thing too.....

You say your running on a dusty tarmac track. Something that might help gain grip is removing the chassis posts. It allows the chassis to flex more. Especially useful with the 3mm thick chassis of the std car
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Old 07-26-2005, 04:58 AM   #9521
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Heya Guys.

Just wondering if anyone had any experience with running toe out on the arms of the 415.

I want to achieve 1.5 toe in on my 415, problem is i only have the 2 degree rear hubs.

So what if i used a D block and a C block on the rear, that should give 1.5 using the 2degree rear hubs.

Would there be any issues setting it up this way?


Thanks.

Glenn

p.s this is the standard suspension by the way!

pps if anyone has any good setups for outdoor asphalt please let me know!
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Old 07-26-2005, 05:05 AM   #9522
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hmmm....
I think I've tried that before, it works, but be wary of a couple of points. It will lengthen your wheelbase for one, so that might need to be adjusted (stick a 2mm shim behind the arm). I'm pretty sure it affect the way the suspension works in some complicated way too.. just i can't explain it
Best bet is too either leave it a 2deg (ie D/D) or get the 1deg hard rear uprights.
For setups, take a look at the link in my sig, not sure theres any for outdoor asphalt with std suspension though.

HiH
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(and yes, i'm currently stuck at home, bored silly.... hence the quick replies I hate being unemployed)
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Old 07-26-2005, 05:28 AM   #9523
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Heya Ed, In your sig, You have a link to cool can fans, but you have it as coolcanfans.com, but that doesn't work, it is supposed to be coolcanfan.com .

Cheers,
~Jack
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Old 07-26-2005, 05:29 AM   #9524
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Thanks jack, I'll change it now.

BTW, just working on some more stuff for my site... more images and setups.

Later
Ed
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Old 07-26-2005, 10:31 AM   #9525
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what FDR would you guys recommend as a starting point for a johnson/mabuchi 540 motor. If you don't do FDR could you recommend a rollout for this kit motor? The track has about a 50ft straight.

TIA,

Mark
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