3LikesTamiya TRF415
02-27-2007, 01:48 PM
Originally Posted by J Stark
TRFMAD: If you're going to try a 10x2 your gearing should be around 102/30 or 31. Just a basic rule of thumb, is that you go up a tooth for each turn. If you don't like the strength of a 7 or 8 turn, you should try a 9 turn also to get that smoother feel you are looking for. If the track you are racing on is on the small side, you can get away with motoring down. You'll notice that a 10 turn lacks top end and punch in all phases, but will be very comfortable to drive.
The track I am racing is small this weekend and has a main staight of 35 metres. I ran a 8x1 last weekend and tried to go smooth but kept running out of straight.Do you think that a 10 would be better.
So what is the difference between a double wind and a single wind and so a 7 has much more top end and a 10 has more punch is this right. It's just that I have always run a 7 or 8.
Thanks
Addam
02-27-2007, 05:26 PM
Well, a 10 turn is going to be better if you have a good set-up, drive smart and don't make any mistakes for 5 minutes. On a smaller track, I think it's better to drive a 9 turn hard then to hold back and conserve a 7 turn. Check your lap times with a 7 turn and then put in a 9 or 10 turn and see the results.
The difference between a single and a double is more driver preference. A single has more burst on the low end and a double has a bit more smoother feeling as it goes through the power band. A double is more for free flowing tracks. When I check some of the pro's set-up sheets, it seems like a lot of them prefer a single, so I don't know.
Sounds like you got some motor testing to do lol.....
The difference between a single and a double is more driver preference. A single has more burst on the low end and a double has a bit more smoother feeling as it goes through the power band. A double is more for free flowing tracks. When I check some of the pro's set-up sheets, it seems like a lot of them prefer a single, so I don't know.
Sounds like you got some motor testing to do lol.....
02-27-2007, 08:08 PM
Originally Posted by RC MARKET
MSXX Air duct good or bad , can cool down motor ?
Addam
02-28-2007, 05:57 AM
Tech Rookie
Battery Strap Kit
Originally Posted by racer43
does anybody knows if somebody is making some kind of battery strap for the trf415mre/ tape them down is a pain.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...L:EOISUA:UK:11
Item no 170083710219
02-28-2007, 03:23 PM
I would like to know which 415 I should buy.
415MSX Refine2
or
415MSXX
What is the better value?
What are the Differences?
I know they are both good cars, should I buy the new version?
Thank you
415MSX Refine2
or
415MSXX
What is the better value?
What are the Differences?
I know they are both good cars, should I buy the new version?
Thank you
02-28-2007, 03:53 PM
The MSXx would be the way to go. It's always good to have the up to date technology. The MSXX will have a smother drivetrain. Better steering rack. ect....
02-28-2007, 06:02 PM
where can i get the part numbers for the pivot blocks for the suspension arms?
i am trying to use marks set up from iic carpet foam mod, but i do not have all of the blocks.
i am trying to use marks set up from iic carpet foam mod, but i do not have all of the blocks.
02-28-2007, 06:12 PM
MSX vx.MSXX?
Originally Posted by gijoe64
I would like to know which 415 I should buy.
415MSX Refine2
or
415MSXX
What is the better value?
What are the Differences?
I know they are both good cars, should I buy the new version?
Thank you
415MSX Refine2
or
415MSXX
What is the better value?
What are the Differences?
I know they are both good cars, should I buy the new version?
Thank you
Just my 2$
02-28-2007, 06:51 PM
It really depends what your running, some find that the steering rack on the MSX is better suited for foam on carpet than the newer one on the MRE and MSXX. Also the 4mm lower chassis is available for the MSX.
But for asphalt the definite answer would be the MSXX.
But for asphalt the definite answer would be the MSXX.
02-28-2007, 07:07 PM
Still a little lost on the differences between MRE and MSXX. From what I've gathered the diff setups are different and MRE has more hop up parts included. MSXX also has a EVO 5 front? I'm also not sure if MSXX will fit a 6 cell pack.
If the MSXX has the same build quality, has 6 cell compatibility and I can get all the hop ups then I would just wait for the summer to get it. If MRE has better carbon/materials etc I would have to try and find one now. I will be running asphalt with rubbers and using Orion 3200 LiPO pack (with some filing I gather.)
Please advise. Thanks!
If the MSXX has the same build quality, has 6 cell compatibility and I can get all the hop ups then I would just wait for the summer to get it. If MRE has better carbon/materials etc I would have to try and find one now. I will be running asphalt with rubbers and using Orion 3200 LiPO pack (with some filing I gather.)
Please advise. Thanks!
02-28-2007, 07:24 PM
The MRE comes with titanium screw where as the MSXX does not. You can also use the 4mm chassis with the MRE or MSXX you just need to modifiy it a bit to accept the different steering rack. I've been using it on mine since new. I only run it on Carpet W/foams. The MSXX does use the Evo front.
02-28-2007, 07:54 PM
I need your help guy's. I've been running a 415 MSX MRE now for about 3 months now. I've been running on Carpet w/ Rubber tires and a front Spool.
It seems like I just can't get the diff. right and I'm frustrated with it.
It seems to be wearing out the thrust bearing abnormally fast. I try not to over tighten it, but it always feels like it's too loose and makes a sound like it's slipping. Could it be the belt slipping? (SCREEEEECH)
I've rebuilt the diff using ceramic balls, resurfaced the diff rings, replaced the screw and the the lock nut. I've tried lock tight.... but I keep having the same problem.
Any tips of input on how to fix the problem I having would really be appreciated.
THANKS!
It seems like I just can't get the diff. right and I'm frustrated with it.
It seems to be wearing out the thrust bearing abnormally fast. I try not to over tighten it, but it always feels like it's too loose and makes a sound like it's slipping. Could it be the belt slipping? (SCREEEEECH)
I've rebuilt the diff using ceramic balls, resurfaced the diff rings, replaced the screw and the the lock nut. I've tried lock tight.... but I keep having the same problem.
Any tips of input on how to fix the problem I having would really be appreciated.
THANKS!
02-28-2007, 11:59 PM
What kind of grease did you put in the thrust bearings? I think they need to be pretty thick. I use Tamiya Anti-Wear grease in mine. Not sure about others.
03-01-2007, 12:35 AM
Originally Posted by hyena boy
where can i get the part numbers for the pivot blocks for the suspension arms?
i am trying to use marks set up from iic carpet foam mod, but i do not have all of the blocks.
i am trying to use marks set up from iic carpet foam mod, but i do not have all of the blocks.
You can download with the TRF415 or TRF415MS manuals, they had all the toe/pivot blocks supplied with them, unlike the MSX.
03-01-2007, 01:08 AM
Tech Addict
Originally Posted by hyena boy
where can i get the part numbers for the pivot blocks for the suspension arms?
i am trying to use marks set up from iic carpet foam mod, but i do not have all of the blocks.
i am trying to use marks set up from iic carpet foam mod, but i do not have all of the blocks.
You find them all here http://www.tamiyashop.ch/index.php?c...=3&cPath=10_12
Good prices too!