buboy28

those MRE lightweight wheel axles are really lightweight they weigh around 3 grams a pair, the titanium ones weigh 5 grams a pair while the steel ones weigh 8 grams a pair

Ben.C

Thats 1.5gm a piece...! Thats light...But too bad they wear too quick...The steels one are still the way to go for the guy on the budget...

buboy28

yup, you are right on that i've already bent a pair of those MRE axles so i've switched all to the steel ones never had a problem even when i crashed

Szimon

Hello boys, did anyone see changes with 415 on TITC? Why I ask you? I want to replace my old 415 and I'd like buy the lastest version (MSXX)

TRF415boy

TBH no one other than maybe 10 drivers in the world will be able to take advantage of the lower weight of those axles, so why bother ?

racer43

can the steering be corrected by adjusting the steering rod individually?

Wing Chun

iTrader: (12)

Hey guy's
I am going to try a 10x2 V2 orion this weekend instead of the Normal 7x1 or 8x1, I am running a rollout of 24.147 (102/28).at the moment for the lower turn motors.
Has any of you guy's got any idea's on getting a good ratio for a 10x2.And what differences should i see in speed and punch. What i am looking for is a much smoother drive from the 10x2.
Thanks
Addam

Tek Nickal

If you mean the link that goes from the servo horn to the steering rack, then yes, thats what you should adjust to correct the steering. This is generally what I do: First I center the servo. Then I make sure that the steering is pointing straight, now adjust the steering linkage so that the servo horn and the link form a 90° angle. This should give you equal steering throw to both sides.

The links which attach to the hubs should be of equal length (at least on the 415 it is) to ensure that the steering throw both left and right be the same.

Ben.C

Totally Agreed...I kept mine alu in the back and swop for steel up front during the initial build.I'm fortunate not to have any bendings so far...

J Stark

TRFMAD: If you're going to try a 10x2 your gearing should be around 102/30 or 31. Just a basic rule of thumb, is that you go up a tooth for each turn. If you don't like the strength of a 7 or 8 turn, you should try a 9 turn also to get that smoother feel you are looking for. If the track you are racing on is on the small side, you can get away with motoring down. You'll notice that a 10 turn lacks top end and punch in all phases, but will be very comfortable to drive.

RocketRacer

i will be running a 9x1 Cobal DC Motorsports on my MSXX this weekend at the first leg of the SA nationals. outdoor, asphalt, high grip, foam tyres, tight track.

what kind of gearing should i use? or what kind of rollout would be good?

thanks

GuyIsDamGood

Two Things.....

Those Aluminum Wheel Axles are alright. I`ve installed those Wheel Axles on My TB Evo 5 and I was Faster on that Carpet than before(We were Racing on Carpet.....2 Fast 2 Furious Loop Style - 5 Laps.....Ha Ha!).
-If you just be Careful not to Bump those Axles; you`ll really see how they are Better than the Steel Axles.


Those TB02, TT-01 and TA05 Kits will kill you on Hop-Ups.....Scary.
-I`ve learned my lesson when I got a TT-01 and spent $300.00 on Hop-Ups.....Never Again.
-But.....They can Take Hits and Crashes; the TB Evos and TRF 415s can`t handle tough driving.

Take Care

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

MSXX Air duct good or bad , can cool down motor ?

racer43

does anybody knows if somebody is making some kind of battery strap for the trf415mre/ tape them down is a pain.

LBSR415

they say the xray one works but I tape anyway