3LikesTamiya TRF415
03-02-2007, 08:51 AM
Rogier if i was you i'd email them to see if it is actually in stock, my friend has had things on order from them for a couple of months 
. Best bet is to e-mail RcChamp, they are quick and very reliable 
Charles
. Best bet is to e-mail RcChamp, they are quick and very reliable Charles
03-02-2007, 05:24 PM
Originally Posted by Charles Godwin
I'd try replacing the little nut in the diff half. That might have worn out. What diff grease do you use?
Charles
Charles
I did replace the lock nut. I use the Tamiya anti-wear grease that came with the kit.
03-02-2007, 05:25 PM
Originally Posted by Tsquare
I had a problem with the Tamiya diff, it kept coming lose. The problem I was having is the locknut would spin inside the plastic locknut holder as I tightened the diff screw. I race at Tamiya's track in orange county, Fred Medel of Tamiya gave me a fix two years ago and I have never had a problem since:
Place a drop of CA glue in the placstic piece that holds the diff locknut, it will keep the nut from spinning as you get to the desired diff tightness, it also helps keep the plastic nut holder from cracking.
Good luck, I hope this helps.
Place a drop of CA glue in the placstic piece that holds the diff locknut, it will keep the nut from spinning as you get to the desired diff tightness, it also helps keep the plastic nut holder from cracking.
Good luck, I hope this helps.
THANKS Tsquare -
I'll give that a try!
03-02-2007, 06:18 PM
Originally Posted by Rogier
FINALLY!! The airduct for the MSX MR (or MSXX) is for sale!! It's now available for $12,00 at RcModel in Hong Kong. Too bad they don't show the actual stock... 
thanks
vic
03-02-2007, 07:09 PM
03-02-2007, 08:21 PM
thanks! have any of you used the rcmodel site? looks like they have a lot in stock at fairly good prices, but i'm not sure about using them. anybody have any experience with them?
thanks
vic
thanks
vic
03-02-2007, 08:32 PM
Tech Adept
Check they have what you want in stock.I ordered quite alot a couple of weeks ago but some stuff is on back order.They list virtually everything on their site but dont always have the items in stock(you get an email after paying telling you whats out of stock and will follow later).
Delivery was quite good to the UK.
Delivery was quite good to the UK.
03-02-2007, 09:00 PM
Tech Fanatic
Hey TRF 415 MSX guys.
I use a Droop Gauge to set the Droop on My R.C. Cars.
How you guys have the Front and Rear Droop set on your TRF 415 MSX.
-I don`t have a TRF 415; I have a TB Evo 5(The TRF 415 MSX and the Evo 5 have the same Suspension.....I think).
Thanks
Take Care
I use a Droop Gauge to set the Droop on My R.C. Cars.
How you guys have the Front and Rear Droop set on your TRF 415 MSX.
-I don`t have a TRF 415; I have a TB Evo 5(The TRF 415 MSX and the Evo 5 have the same Suspension.....I think).
Thanks
Take Care
03-02-2007, 10:24 PM
Originally Posted by GuyIsDamGood
Hey TRF 415 MSX guys.
I use a Droop Gauge to set the Droop on My R.C. Cars.
How you guys have the Front and Rear Droop set on your TRF 415 MSX.
-I don`t have a TRF 415; I have a TB Evo 5(The TRF 415 MSX and the Evo 5 have the same Suspension.....I think).
Thanks
Take Care
I use a Droop Gauge to set the Droop on My R.C. Cars.
How you guys have the Front and Rear Droop set on your TRF 415 MSX.
-I don`t have a TRF 415; I have a TB Evo 5(The TRF 415 MSX and the Evo 5 have the same Suspension.....I think).
Thanks
Take Care
Best to post your question in the Evo V thread, as they will be able to tell you how to set droop on it, and how much.
03-03-2007, 04:45 AM
Originally Posted by tbeardmore
Hi Charles -
I did replace the lock nut. I use the Tamiya anti-wear grease that came with the kit.
I did replace the lock nut. I use the Tamiya anti-wear grease that came with the kit.
Charles
03-03-2007, 06:10 AM
Tech Addict
Originally Posted by hierog
thanks! have any of you used the rcmodel site? looks like they have a lot in stock at fairly good prices, but i'm not sure about using them. anybody have any experience with them?
thanks
vic
thanks
vic
Still recommend RC Champ every time....when you email them and ask for what you need, they will tell you if in stock, as well as give you complete price with discounts, freight etc.
03-03-2007, 07:34 AM
i'm dealing with RC champ right now and i must say they are very patient. so far, they have special ordered the MRE screw bags and the sticker sets for me. i emailed them the p/n for the air scoop and he is going to special order them for me before i pay for the order. pretty good customer service so far!
03-03-2007, 07:58 AM
Originally Posted by hierog
i'm dealing with RC champ right now and i must say they are very patient. so far, they have special ordered the MRE screw bags and the sticker sets for me. i emailed them the p/n for the air scoop and he is going to special order them for me before i pay for the order. pretty good customer service so far!
03-03-2007, 11:33 AM
Well guys,
Given I had some setup issues with my MRE last time out, namely a lack of mid corner steering, I've been looking at the distance/angles of the steering arms on the MRE and Evo5. Given they use the same steering system, and I haven't had this problem on the the Evo, I figured there was no reason why I can't get the MRE sorted. So I've done some measuring of both the cars, and this is what I've come up with.
Evo5;
Distance between steering posts and suspension blocks = 38mm
Wheelbase - Shims behind arms = 1.0mm
Ackerman Spacers = 1.0mm
Total = 40mm
MRE;
Distance between steering posts and suspension blocks = 37mm
Wheelbase - Shims behind arms = 3.5mm
Ackerman Spacers = 0.5mm
Total = 41mm
The total figure is just all the other values added together... and not the real value It's just a good representative value of distance between the inner and outer ball joints, and hence angle of the steering linkage.
Also, I'm using the hex-headed ball studs on both cars, which are 1mm shorter than the standard type.
Basically, this shows to get the MRE and Evo similar, you need to run an extra 1mm behind the ackerman ball stud on the MRE OR run 2.5mm behind the front arm on the MRE (instead of 3.5mm).
So I'm going to try it out next weekend (final round of carpet wars), running 1.5mm behind the ackerman ball stud on the MRE. The rest of the setup will remain the same as before (1mm under blocks, Short LWT arms, one-way, D/D etc), so hopefully this will work!
I'll let you know how I get on, if anyone else wants to try it out and see what the results are... feel free
HiH
Ed
Given I had some setup issues with my MRE last time out, namely a lack of mid corner steering, I've been looking at the distance/angles of the steering arms on the MRE and Evo5. Given they use the same steering system, and I haven't had this problem on the the Evo, I figured there was no reason why I can't get the MRE sorted. So I've done some measuring of both the cars, and this is what I've come up with.
Evo5;
Distance between steering posts and suspension blocks = 38mm
Wheelbase - Shims behind arms = 1.0mm
Ackerman Spacers = 1.0mm
Total = 40mm
MRE;
Distance between steering posts and suspension blocks = 37mm
Wheelbase - Shims behind arms = 3.5mm
Ackerman Spacers = 0.5mm
Total = 41mm
The total figure is just all the other values added together... and not the real value
It's just a good representative value of distance between the inner and outer ball joints, and hence angle of the steering linkage. Also, I'm using the hex-headed ball studs on both cars, which are 1mm shorter than the standard type.
Basically, this shows to get the MRE and Evo similar, you need to run an extra 1mm behind the ackerman ball stud on the MRE OR run 2.5mm behind the front arm on the MRE (instead of 3.5mm).
So I'm going to try it out next weekend (final round of carpet wars), running 1.5mm behind the ackerman ball stud on the MRE. The rest of the setup will remain the same as before (1mm under blocks, Short LWT arms, one-way, D/D etc), so hopefully this will work!
I'll let you know how I get on, if anyone else wants to try it out and see what the results are... feel free
HiH
Ed
Last edited by TryHard; 03-03-2007 at 12:01 PM.
03-03-2007, 03:51 PM
Originally Posted by TryHard
Well guys,
Given I had some setup issues with my MRE last time out, namely a lack of mid corner steering, I've been looking at the distance/angles of the steering arms on the MRE and Evo5. Given they use the same steering system, and I haven't had this problem on the the Evo, I figured there was no reason why I can't get the MRE sorted. So I've done some measuring of both the cars, and this is what I've come up with.
Evo5;
Distance between steering posts and suspension blocks = 38mm
Wheelbase - Shims behind arms = 1.0mm
Ackerman Spacers = 1.0mm
Total = 40mm
MRE;
Distance between steering posts and suspension blocks = 37mm
Wheelbase - Shims behind arms = 3.5mm
Ackerman Spacers = 0.5mm
Total = 41mm
The total figure is just all the other values added together... and not the real value It's just a good representative value of distance between the inner and outer ball joints, and hence angle of the steering linkage.
Also, I'm using the hex-headed ball studs on both cars, which are 1mm shorter than the standard type.
Basically, this shows to get the MRE and Evo similar, you need to run an extra 1mm behind the ackerman ball stud on the MRE OR run 2.5mm behind the front arm on the MRE (instead of 3.5mm).
So I'm going to try it out next weekend (final round of carpet wars), running 1.5mm behind the ackerman ball stud on the MRE. The rest of the setup will remain the same as before (1mm under blocks, Short LWT arms, one-way, D/D etc), so hopefully this will work!
I'll let you know how I get on, if anyone else wants to try it out and see what the results are... feel free
HiH
Ed
Given I had some setup issues with my MRE last time out, namely a lack of mid corner steering, I've been looking at the distance/angles of the steering arms on the MRE and Evo5. Given they use the same steering system, and I haven't had this problem on the the Evo, I figured there was no reason why I can't get the MRE sorted. So I've done some measuring of both the cars, and this is what I've come up with.
Evo5;
Distance between steering posts and suspension blocks = 38mm
Wheelbase - Shims behind arms = 1.0mm
Ackerman Spacers = 1.0mm
Total = 40mm
MRE;
Distance between steering posts and suspension blocks = 37mm
Wheelbase - Shims behind arms = 3.5mm
Ackerman Spacers = 0.5mm
Total = 41mm
The total figure is just all the other values added together... and not the real value
It's just a good representative value of distance between the inner and outer ball joints, and hence angle of the steering linkage. Also, I'm using the hex-headed ball studs on both cars, which are 1mm shorter than the standard type.
Basically, this shows to get the MRE and Evo similar, you need to run an extra 1mm behind the ackerman ball stud on the MRE OR run 2.5mm behind the front arm on the MRE (instead of 3.5mm).
So I'm going to try it out next weekend (final round of carpet wars), running 1.5mm behind the ackerman ball stud on the MRE. The rest of the setup will remain the same as before (1mm under blocks, Short LWT arms, one-way, D/D etc), so hopefully this will work!
I'll let you know how I get on, if anyone else wants to try it out and see what the results are... feel free
HiH
Ed