XRAY T2’009
#1996
#1997
Thought I'd share the mod I did to my T2 today. It's an 007, but I figure this would work exactly the same on an 009. This setup is a little bit different than most of the lipo wieght mods I've seen, because the weights are running right next to the centre line of the car. The best part though is that it is really cheap, and if your in college like me that is quite important!
It's not too pretty yet since I just threw it together today, so there is a bit of finishing that needs to be done on the battery retainers. The battery retainers were made from an old XB8 TQ radio tray I had lying around. The black anodizing is cool. I've got to redo the wiring as well since the power wires are to short to reach now. I also had ripped out all the electronics in an attempt to mount the on the battery side of the car, which wasn't a problem for the ESC (Tekin FX Pro, tiny), but after much rearranging I felt that this setup would put more mass to the centre of the car.
The lead running down the centre holds the battery in place and is taped in with Parma silicone tape. I've got 144g of lead there. The car weighs in at about 1450g. We are using a 1500g limit up north here this winter, so I've got to add a bit more weight yet, but we'll see what the tech scales read first. My scale is a postal style spring loaded scale, so I can't imagine it's ultra accurate.
The car should balance R/L perfectly once I mount my motor cooling fan. The battery is an SMC S-Max 4500mah, which weighs in at about 250g (If I remember correctly).
The best part about this is that there are no weights placed at the extreme front, rear, or right side of the car. All the ballast weight goes right down the centre. Plus the weights are mostly hidden.
Carpet season doesn't start here for a few more weeks yet, so it'll be a little while before I get a chance to test this setup out on the track.
It's not too pretty yet since I just threw it together today, so there is a bit of finishing that needs to be done on the battery retainers. The battery retainers were made from an old XB8 TQ radio tray I had lying around. The black anodizing is cool. I've got to redo the wiring as well since the power wires are to short to reach now. I also had ripped out all the electronics in an attempt to mount the on the battery side of the car, which wasn't a problem for the ESC (Tekin FX Pro, tiny), but after much rearranging I felt that this setup would put more mass to the centre of the car.
The lead running down the centre holds the battery in place and is taped in with Parma silicone tape. I've got 144g of lead there. The car weighs in at about 1450g. We are using a 1500g limit up north here this winter, so I've got to add a bit more weight yet, but we'll see what the tech scales read first. My scale is a postal style spring loaded scale, so I can't imagine it's ultra accurate.
The car should balance R/L perfectly once I mount my motor cooling fan. The battery is an SMC S-Max 4500mah, which weighs in at about 250g (If I remember correctly).
The best part about this is that there are no weights placed at the extreme front, rear, or right side of the car. All the ballast weight goes right down the centre. Plus the weights are mostly hidden.
Carpet season doesn't start here for a few more weeks yet, so it'll be a little while before I get a chance to test this setup out on the track.
#1998
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
I know that the balance is the same, but moving the weight was the whole point. Putting the weights in the centre of the car makes for a lower polar moment along the longitudinal axis of the car, so there is less weight transfer to the outside in a corner. The lead is more dense than the lipo battery, which I think means that even though the battery is moved quite far from the cars centre line the heaviest part of that side is closest to the centre. Also, the battery I'm using is pretty light, so to make the 1500g minimum weight I have to add over 150g of lead. Normally that lead would have to placed on outside of the battery, in front of the battery and behind the battery. All 3 of those places are very far from the cars CG, which means that they would create more of a pendulum effect.
#1999
Tech Champion
iTrader: (208)
I know that the balance is the same, but moving the weight was the whole point. Putting the weights in the centre of the car makes for a lower polar moment along the longitudinal axis of the car, so there is less weight transfer to the outside in a corner. The lead is more dense than the lipo battery, which I think means that even though the battery is moved quite far from the cars centre line the heaviest part of that side is closest to the centre. Also, the battery I'm using is pretty light, so to make the 1500g minimum weight I have to add over 150g of lead. Normally that lead would have to placed on outside of the battery, in front of the battery and behind the battery. All 3 of those places are very far from the cars CG, which means that they would create more of a pendulum effect.
#2000
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
True, we need weight transfer, but only to a point. That's why we don't have chassis plates that are 190mm wide. The Xray car is still absurdly wide compared to the Losi Type-R. I can't imagine that moving the weight in as much as I have will take reduce the chassis roll to the point where the chassis can't roll at all. I wish we were running 1420g here this year. That would make things a lot nicer. I'd just go with a T3 style layout and flip the diffs to balance if we were running that lower weight limit here.
#2001
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
I tried that, meaning a ton of weight in the center of the car then balancing with the lipo hanging off. Worked ok.
Then I purchased a battery lipo weight, and moved the battery as far out as I dared to balance the car left to right, then used weight to balance the rest of it front to back like I wanted the bias, and towards our weight rule.
Worked better.
Car is run on medium grip parking lot that is treated with light VHT. Now if I go foam racing on carpet... I want no chassis roll.
Then I purchased a battery lipo weight, and moved the battery as far out as I dared to balance the car left to right, then used weight to balance the rest of it front to back like I wanted the bias, and towards our weight rule.
Worked better.
Car is run on medium grip parking lot that is treated with light VHT. Now if I go foam racing on carpet... I want no chassis roll.
#2005
Body postion
I am new to electric onroad, normaly run 1/8 gas were body postion is very important. I have ordered a T2 009 with a proto form LTC-R body. is there a prefered body position, measuerd from the bumper. The car will have a 10.5 T motor on rubber tires.here is a pic of the track.
http://www.onroadrccarclubbunbury.org.au/Site/index.htm
Thanks
http://www.onroadrccarclubbunbury.org.au/Site/index.htm
Thanks
#2006
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
I am new to electric onroad, normaly run 1/8 gas were body postion is very important. I have ordered a T2 009 with a proto form LTC-R body. is there a prefered body position, measuerd from the bumper. The car will have a 10.5 T motor on rubber tires.here is a pic of the track.
http://www.onroadrccarclubbunbury.org.au/Site/index.htm
Thanks
http://www.onroadrccarclubbunbury.org.au/Site/index.htm
Thanks
#2007
Tech Elite
iTrader: (101)
Hi Guys
Just wondering if I can use the front uni's that come with the kit in the rear of the car? I think the only difference is the kit rears are alloy and the fronts are steel. I put ecs drive shafts straight in and was going to sell the kit set but if I can use them in the rear Ill keep them.
Cheers
adrian
Just wondering if I can use the front uni's that come with the kit in the rear of the car? I think the only difference is the kit rears are alloy and the fronts are steel. I put ecs drive shafts straight in and was going to sell the kit set but if I can use them in the rear Ill keep them.
Cheers
adrian
#2008
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
Hi Guys
Just wondering if I can use the front uni's that come with the kit in the rear of the car? I think the only difference is the kit rears are alloy and the fronts are steel. I put ecs drive shafts straight in and was going to sell the kit set but if I can use them in the rear Ill keep them.
Cheers
adrian
Just wondering if I can use the front uni's that come with the kit in the rear of the car? I think the only difference is the kit rears are alloy and the fronts are steel. I put ecs drive shafts straight in and was going to sell the kit set but if I can use them in the rear Ill keep them.
Cheers
adrian
#2009
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
Has anyone compared the colored springs to the black springs using the longer shocks that came with the original T2 and 007? More specifically, for carpet on rubber tires. I know this might not be the best thread but is certainly the most active when pertaining to the T2.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Last edited by Dane; 10-26-2009 at 06:38 AM.