lightfoot

iTrader: (2)

Why do you guys at Tamiya insist on using cheap soft aluminum screws in your kits ? please choose one...

A) We would rather piss off our loyal customers then to spend an extra .32 cents per kit on regular screws.

B) We are completely unaware that this situation has been occurring for the past 15 years...

C) People expect low quality aluminum screws with there Tamiya kits...

D) We have been aware of our poor quality screws for years but we just don't give a sh_t...

E) We put high quality screws in all our kits but Aliens remove them in shipping...

F) Mr Yoshida and Mr Tamiya have had a 15 year long bet as to how long they can get away with using The Cheapest Screw Known To Man...

G) We are aware of the situation but everyone in the company is too much of a pu__y to let there boss know...

H) What screws ?

theDover

Has anyone started running 48p gears in their 103r or 103rm yet? I'm running stock Silver can and I'd like to know a good starting point for pinion/spur.

We're running 120' x 60' track.

Thanks!...

gramm

48p? Always.

Go with 72/19 for that silver can. 72/20 for small foam tires.

Daniel

414MPH

iTrader: (8)

What are you talking about? Steel screws are less expensive than aluminum screws. The only aluminum screws in a tamiya F1 kit are the front end screws, and if you had a decent tol kit, you would never strip one. Stop using your wal-mart/K-mart tool kit and build it like it should be built with grown-up tools!

mok

iTrader: (9)

i stripped one of mine on the F103R and i can tell you now, i wasnt using cheap kmart tools... IMHO a good tool with a hardened tip will do MORE damage to a cheap nasty screw head.. personally i think I overtightened the screw the first time, as opposed to blaming my tools!

Fasthobbies1

iTrader: (5)

Anyone interested in an older F103?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-indy-car.html

Foxxrocket

The screws suck period... I replaced all mine with steel hex screws, and they even match the color of the chassis.

240Z

iTrader: (6)

I) Putting aluminum screws on the front saves mass in a place where every gram counts.

J) Replacing a sheared aluminum screw from a front end collision is much easier/cheaper to fix than having it rip out from the bottom pan.

It sounds like you have just had a battle to remove a damaged screw that no screwdriver known to man could have removed. Been there done that, and made a trip over to ACE hardware to find a stainless hex replacement.

Vyger

iTrader: (2)

I have to agree with everything you’ve said. I'd like to add an OMG! Are you kidding me to that.

What kit are you talking about? Tamiya doesn’t sell an F1 loaded with aluminum screws. The only two screws that match your description are the ones at the front of the car.

I’ve built a couple of the Tamiya F1’s and non F1's, I’ve used a few of their aluminum screws in those kits…If you're replacing the kit screws with aluminum alan head screws...don’t monkey paw the thing together and you shouldn’t have a problem. They don’t need 100lbs of torque to hold everything in place. Not sure if this is the problem but if the screws keep coming loose or seizing from impacts, that’s not the screws fault.

Sorry everyone, I just had to get that off my chest.

F103R



F103RM


F103RS


F102


Non F1's
TA03FS



Dark Impact




All aluminum, all the time and never a problem with a screw.

Core Creations

iTrader: (108)

Looks loike we have another Tamiya body set coming...Type C #84070

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=84070

Vyger

iTrader: (2)

I noticed that too. I was trying to figure out what it could be, what the “C” stands for.

Sauber C-12
Lotus Castrol 107b
Williams Camel/Cannon FW-14b

Does anyone else have any ideas?

Csaari77

iTrader: (35)

Looks like a Mercedes group C car.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=58351

ruf

iTrader: (3)

Lightfoot - get ur butt back racing Mini-Z! And the Tamiya aluminum screws I've seen are pretty decent. The titanium screws are the ones that are crap - best bet is to use an oversized 5/64" wrench on them but they still strip and snap.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I've got a couple sets of those. I'm thinking more for TCS. Those height adjusters work well with the 3 Racing rear pod though.

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

i recently swapped all my alum screws for titanium hex screws, the funny thing is, the front end alum screws are the same exact weight (down to .01 oz) as the square rc titanium front end titanium screws.

may i ask the benefit of havin the shock mounted to the lower chassis instead of the upper?

its a f103gt that i have converted the front end to accept the f103lm wheels from tamiya and other similar brands.