stocker

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone know if the TRF416 diff screw and nut (#51341) fit the alum outdrives? Thanks!

stocker

iTrader: (2)

They have 12 balls vs the 9 on the stock unit, but uses smaller balls. Logically it should be better. I used the 502x unit from the start and it's smooth and does not slip yet can be quite loose.

yobouno

iTrader: (7)

Are you looking for the screws for the diff? Ball diff screws are 2 x 25mm. Here's the part number #49350 comes with nut.

As for the plastic parts I'd just get the A tree parts #51351. A5 and the gear cover always comes in handy since that's the parts we unscrew the most and they do have a habit of losing their threads. As for A5, they do get broken occasionally, nice to have spares available.

stocker

iTrader: (2)

Actually i wanted to use the 416 screw and nut for easy adjustment of the ball diff instead of having to remove the drive shaft. And the 416 nut is integrated into what is the plastic nut holder in the TB03 kit which looks stronger.

yobouno

iTrader: (7)

as far as I can tell, the cup size for the outdrives are 3mm apart. Theorectically, they should fit. I am basing this assessment with TA05 and TRF417 diff joint. Assuming Tamiya would prefer to only support 1 size fits all plastic shaft cushion for their drive shafts which is 3mm wide. The part number for the little plastic "nut" is #9804373. Unfortunately the screw is 22mm. I think you should be able to simply use the original screw.

Have a look at TRF416's manual here.

Recently, advise that have been given to me is tight front (spool preferred) and very loose rear. I used gear diff, with 300,000 wt front, and 30,000 wt rear (they asked me to go down to <10,000 wt). I was racing 21.5T blinky, the car was built 2 weeks before race and it came 8/11 at my first ever states title... am quite happy with my own performance and the car... There are still room to improve as far as my car goes, but have to sack the driver he's too slow... hahaha

stocker

iTrader: (2)

I checked the current diff screw, there is quite a lot of thread sticking out the other side, I think 22mm may be able to work, worth a try.

How about the 5x1.5mm spacer in between the ball bearings on the hubs? Looks like it complements the 1050 bearings, much like the 5x1.9mm spacer #53891 to reduce stress on the bearings.

yobouno

iTrader: (7)

Yes the spacer is designed to keep the bearings from fusing together. From the looks of the manual the TRF diff joint short bit is shorter than the ones for TB-03. I think try 5x1.9mm otherwise, vellrip has them on stock item code #9804372

I buy some of my stuff from them, they are in singapore. The spare parts that they carry are unbelievable... you can find almost any spares from them while no one else has them. http://www.vellrip.com/store/home.asp

NewWestF1

iTrader: (5)

Just ordered my TB-03 and have some questions about tires... What's the best rubber tyre and wheel combo for parking lot and indoor. My outdoor track will be closing up shortly and the indoor will soon be opening. I'm going run the stock motor for now with programmable esc, I forget the brand right now. What'll give me decent grip and not kill the bank?

BTW this is my second car. My first is an FGX.

yobouno

iTrader: (7)

Assuming your summer is like winter in Australia, I'd still keep using 20 - 30D compounds (ie, soft to medium). One common thing with carparks around the world is dust and pebbles, nothing cheap really works... Sorex is the tyre of choice usually. Having said that, if your team/friends/racers are willing to do some prep work every race, try this... blow off as much debris as you can on the track using a leaf blower. The coat them with sugar water. Add as much sugar as you can till the sugar won't desolve anymore. Spray it thoroughly on your track, leave it for 20 mins. Then you'll find yourself with much more grip and with that you can go down to using muchmores or other slightly less expensive tyres.

We do that on our purpose build track at our club, and we runs medium hard in the middle of winter (avg 12'C)

NewWestF1

iTrader: (5)

TB-03 in hand next week .. sooo excited .. getting a Mazda Furai body shell and some slick alloy rims and nice tyres .. have the original Impul Calsonic GT-R body too with polymer rims and better set of wheels .. yeah racing adjustable alloy rear wing and some carbon fibre sticker sheets for some crucial decoration .. i think at some point i will install a proper light kit too ..

going to run the stock motor for now . i guess a 540-J till i get the hang of driving it and the winter season passes .. will post pics when it's built .. using spaz stix paint to make her pretty holographic colour changing paint .. should be slick ..

OVA

iTrader: (86)

gear diff is worth the money?


R-spec gear diff ever leak?

NewWestF1

iTrader: (5)

thanks for the info . i wish we had a purpose built track here for on-road but alas off-road is definitely the thing around here . i found out with my FGX that slicks are useless for the 28*C days (pavement temp @ 40*C) we've had and that sugar water trick effectively leaves an syrop on the track with 0 grip (discovered that yesterday); our summers are like yours, hot but not as dry . gotta look into a bunch of tires and do some testing over the winter here ... found some foams from GQ that may work on pavement up here and researching other tires for a good cross section of what is available .. test test test .. i'll let you know what works in Vancouver in case you make the trip from Aus . Vancouver/Whistler are a kind of Little Sydney BTW .

yobouno

iTrader: (7)

Depending if you're using it for front or rear... my TB03 is for drifting, I use one way front and gear diff rear. With the rear, I use 550 wt damper oil to keep it smooth, seems to be working and no leaks.

So far the gears inside haven't stripped on me yet. I stripped one from 3Racing on my mini. Overall they are definately easier to maintain, never have to rebuild them so far.

NewWestF1

iTrader: (5)

so i'm building the TB-03 now and i'm thinking of getting some proper parking lot tires and foams for the winter carpet season .. integy has these billet machined alloy wheels with some decent looking tires i'm thinking of but i'm trying to figure out foams .. and widths .. what's the standard for TB-03 . 26mm? is that more or less the TC standard? and +3 offset would be 29mm? am i getting this right?

thanks. it's my second car, bear with me

yobouno

iTrader: (7)

I found TB-03 can't keep up with even Sakura Zero S. The gearing ratio is too big, I changed to a TA05 V2 for that reason. As for your winter carpet season, you better ask the club, they may have control tyres.

The +3 offset meant it'll make the width of the car wider when you put on those tyres. The tyre width is still the same, but say if you use the standard plastic wheel hex which is 5mm. + 3 offset will move your tyre position 3mm further out. (I hope I'm making sense to you.) Just make sure you've got a axle that will fit it, or use a shorter wheel nut. +3mm on the rear add extra stability to the car. What is your rear toe? Try go towards -3.5 or -4. -2.5 is not enough