Tekin RS ESC sensored
02-15-2010, 01:59 AM
Hi,
I dug out my RS Pro to put into my TC yesterday as my SPX just isn't quick enough to keep up.
I loaded 203 onto it and sure enough, the car was a missile but I'm having to brake about 5 metres before the corner in order to get into the apex, during which time I'm losing about 3 metres to the cars behind me.
Here's a video of the race in question:
I'm the orange TQ car and when at race speed, I was hitting the brakes just under the furthest right basket ball hoop.
I know the problem isn't the motor (Novak Ballistic 13.5) because the SPX would stop the car almost instantly on the lowest brake profile.
I tried resetting the radio throttle position, I tried as someone else suggested, putting the speedo into BL-F/R with max reverse, applying the settings and then changing it back to BL-FW. But there was no change.
Any suggestions for getting good brakes? Could it be a hardware problem?
- Tim.
I dug out my RS Pro to put into my TC yesterday as my SPX just isn't quick enough to keep up.
I loaded 203 onto it and sure enough, the car was a missile but I'm having to brake about 5 metres before the corner in order to get into the apex, during which time I'm losing about 3 metres to the cars behind me.
Here's a video of the race in question:
| + YouTube Video | |
I'm the orange TQ car and when at race speed, I was hitting the brakes just under the furthest right basket ball hoop.
I know the problem isn't the motor (Novak Ballistic 13.5) because the SPX would stop the car almost instantly on the lowest brake profile.
I tried resetting the radio throttle position, I tried as someone else suggested, putting the speedo into BL-F/R with max reverse, applying the settings and then changing it back to BL-FW. But there was no change.
Any suggestions for getting good brakes? Could it be a hardware problem?
- Tim.
02-15-2010, 02:16 AM
Tim, is the ABS switched off?
I expect it is, but it's all I can think of right now...
Ok, logically thinking here - If the only thing you have changed is the ESC, then the ESC may have problems finding the end points of your transmitter
Sorry if that sounds obvious, but you and I know I don't have a problem with what you're explaining on the equipment I use.
I may have to pop over to Eastbourne club somewhen if someone has a good FDR/Setup for V203 and see how the braking is on my car.
The only trouble is my car is still setup for foams on carpet...
I expect it is, but it's all I can think of right now...
Ok, logically thinking here - If the only thing you have changed is the ESC, then the ESC may have problems finding the end points of your transmitter
Sorry if that sounds obvious, but you and I know I don't have a problem with what you're explaining on the equipment I use.
I may have to pop over to Eastbourne club somewhen if someone has a good FDR/Setup for V203 and see how the braking is on my car.
The only trouble is my car is still setup for foams on carpet...
02-15-2010, 02:47 AM
Have you tried the calibration to 90%EPA then reverting to 100% trick?
Another thing to be aware of is that sometimes settigns are not transferred correctly to the ESC. I had this problem too, and at the moment the only fix is that you need to close hotwire and reopen it and check the ESC settigns to make sure they are what you want them to be. That's how I do it, anyway.
Another thing to be aware of is that sometimes settigns are not transferred correctly to the ESC. I had this problem too, and at the moment the only fix is that you need to close hotwire and reopen it and check the ESC settigns to make sure they are what you want them to be. That's how I do it, anyway.
i dont see many results from Bunbury with your name on it. i doubt you even have a tekin ? if so then bring ya best game with you the next meet in Super stock , and we shall see what you (the master) can really do with a tekin, and car setup ????
02-15-2010, 02:56 AM
Not saying that this will fix it but it is some examples of issues we have experienced and the fixes we found worked, worth a try if you have not done so already.
I experienced what I thought was a lack of brakes, it was actually too much brakes and dialling it back to around 85-90% fixed the issue with a KO EX10
Another club member had an issue with a Futaba 3PK and it turned out to be end points being out. When we would go to set it it would chime for the neutral and the full throttle but would take longer to get the brake chime. When on the track the brakes were weak.
Once we reset the radio and used a clean memory profile we achieved the chimes on each immediately and brakes were excellent so came down to end point wander.
I experienced what I thought was a lack of brakes, it was actually too much brakes and dialling it back to around 85-90% fixed the issue with a KO EX10
Another club member had an issue with a Futaba 3PK and it turned out to be end points being out. When we would go to set it it would chime for the neutral and the full throttle but would take longer to get the brake chime. When on the track the brakes were weak.
Once we reset the radio and used a clean memory profile we achieved the chimes on each immediately and brakes were excellent so came down to end point wander.
02-15-2010, 02:57 AM
Have you ? if your gonna post crap like this, then rather than have to ask what happened, why not explain it as you post it.
i dont see many results from Bunbury with your name on it. i doubt you even have a tekin ? if so then bring ya best game with you the next meet in Super stock , and we shall see what you (the master) can really do with a tekin, and car setup ????
i dont see many results from Bunbury with your name on it. i doubt you even have a tekin ? if so then bring ya best game with you the next meet in Super stock , and we shall see what you (the master) can really do with a tekin, and car setup ????
We don't need personal/sarcastic insults on this thread...
Just useful information to share for the RS/Pro ESC, please!
Now lets get back to the discussion, thank you!
02-15-2010, 03:02 AM
Tech Adept
The transmitter throttle end points are set to 100%.
The radio calibration works fine and is done whenever a change is made to the speedo settings.
When brakes are applied, the LEDs flash away as expected.
02-15-2010, 03:08 AM
There is no ABS on the transmitter (DX3R) and I don't see ABS as a setting on the speedo.
The transmitter throttle end points are set to 100%.
The radio calibration works fine and is done whenever a change is made to the speedo settings.
When brakes are applied, the LEDs flash away as expected.
The transmitter throttle end points are set to 100%.
The radio calibration works fine and is done whenever a change is made to the speedo settings.
When brakes are applied, the LEDs flash away as expected.
And have you noticed the brakes being better if the FDR is changed?
What motor temperature are you getting at the end of a race?
Is the fault there from lap 1, or towards the end of a race?
Is the fault proportionate to the amount of speed you are carrying - (Is it harder to brake the faster you are going?).
Just trying to visualise (as best as I can) what is going on here and what might be causing it.
Edit: To me, it sounds like the sensors are not being read properly, on braking... Is that possible?
02-15-2010, 03:08 AM
02-15-2010, 03:11 AM
Have you ? if your gonna post crap like this, then rather than have to ask what happened, why not explain it as you post it.
i dont see many results from Bunbury with your name on it. i doubt you even have a tekin ? if so then bring ya best game with you the next meet in Super stock , and we shall see what you (the master) can really do with a tekin, and car setup ????
i dont see many results from Bunbury with your name on it. i doubt you even have a tekin ? if so then bring ya best game with you the next meet in Super stock , and we shall see what you (the master) can really do with a tekin, and car setup ????
As for whether or not I have a Tekin again doesn't exactly qualify as being any of your bussiness.
If you don't have a split personality, the answer above was for THankock, not you. Trust me, you're not at the center of my universe.
Sorry tc3team, I have no idea what he's on about hence not sure what to tell him.
02-15-2010, 03:12 AM
Maybe you two guys would care to take your conversation to a PM or two, please?
Thanks.
Thanks.
02-15-2010, 03:17 AM
02-15-2010, 03:18 AM
02-15-2010, 03:21 AM
02-15-2010, 03:26 AM
Tech Adept
And have you noticed the brakes being better if the FDR is changed?
What motor temperature are you getting at the end of a race?
Is the fault there from lap 1, or towards the end of a race?
Is the fault proportionate to the amount of speed you are carrying - (Is it harder to brake the faster you are going?).
Just trying to visualise (as best as I can) what is going on here and what might be causing it.
Edit: To me, it sounds like the sensors are not being read properly, on braking... Is that possible?
What motor temperature are you getting at the end of a race?
Is the fault there from lap 1, or towards the end of a race?
Is the fault proportionate to the amount of speed you are carrying - (Is it harder to brake the faster you are going?).
Just trying to visualise (as best as I can) what is going on here and what might be causing it.
Edit: To me, it sounds like the sensors are not being read properly, on braking... Is that possible?
The motor is around 55c at the end of the 5 minute run.
The brakes are weak at the beginning, middle and end of the race.
LOL, of course the faster I am going, the longer it takes to stop.
02-15-2010, 03:27 AM
Tim, just out of interest, let us know also if the brakes feel better on dual drive too, it might give a better idea for everyone what is going on with your setup.
Thanks.
No, sorry if I didnt explain myself properly ... The brakes could feel like there is nothing at low speed as well as high speed. Hope that clarifys what im trying to explain/ask 
Thanks.
No, sorry if I didnt explain myself properly
... The brakes could feel like there is nothing at low speed as well as high speed. Hope that clarifys what im trying to explain/ask