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Old 07-05-2009, 04:29 AM
  #4696  
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Last edited by mikecatts; 09-16-2010 at 05:20 AM.
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Old 07-05-2009, 04:49 AM
  #4697  
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Just wanted to say 2 things.

First is a big thank you to tekin for making a brilliant speedo. I've used it a few times now and love it.

Second is an idea/suggestion. Would it be possible to add a setting to the firmware that has speed proportional braking? ie. the faster the motor spins the less braking power, if it works on the brakes maybe could work on throttle too.

The main reason I would like it is because I run a bike with mechanical braking on the front and motor braking on the rear. The motor brakes very stong at high speed but low strengh at low speeds and the disc brake is the other way around.

The setting could have a - and + so if someone is running a 17.5 with very high rollout in a car they could increase high speed braking and keep low speed the same?
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Old 07-05-2009, 07:39 AM
  #4698  
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Originally Posted by Casino Kid
Randy or anyone,
I have a Nomadio React and i am having great difficulty getting the Tekin Pro to work with it, or is it just the software with the Tekin.
HELP: cry:
Thanks Steven
You're going to have to be more specific if you really want help.

Do you mean it won't calibrate?
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Old 07-05-2009, 08:12 AM
  #4699  
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[QUOTE=TY@TEAMTEKIN;4728946]You could but I bet there would be a huge increase in operating temperatures, those posts act as a heat sink coming off the FET boards....Plus it is almost impossible to get those posts out without re-organizing some of the components on the boards, lol. I wouldn't do it, it would probably kill some performance. I have never heard of, or had, a problem with shorting the posts together ever. It could happen if a wire was cold soldered on and broke off during impact, but that would be the ESC's solder tech's fault. [/QUOTE


how could this happen??? This is the first time i use Tekin and play with my new car
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Old 07-05-2009, 09:19 AM
  #4700  
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[QUOTE=tongho;6025919]
Originally Posted by TY@TEAMTEKIN
You could but I bet there would be a huge increase in operating temperatures, those posts act as a heat sink coming off the FET boards....Plus it is almost impossible to get those posts out without re-organizing some of the components on the boards, lol. I wouldn't do it, it would probably kill some performance. I have never heard of, or had, a problem with shorting the posts together ever. It could happen if a wire was cold soldered on and broke off during impact, but that would be the ESC's solder tech's fault. [/QUOTE


how could this happen??? This is the first time i use Tekin and play with my new car
get the shrink stuff of your solder post. this cools the speedo. Now it will be soon to hot.
That's your problem. When you have head problems, use a fan that blows on the solder post.
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Old 07-05-2009, 09:36 AM
  #4701  
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[QUOTE=mikky32;6026088]
Originally Posted by tongho

get the shrink stuff of your solder post. this cools the speedo. Now it will be soon to hot.
That's your problem. When you have head problems, use a fan that blows on the solder post.


I burnt the esc.....it caught fire then the board was melted
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Old 07-05-2009, 09:47 AM
  #4702  
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[QUOTE=tongho;6026126]
Originally Posted by mikky32



I burnt the esc.....it caught fire then the board was melted
voila, how to rape a perfect speedo......Put shrink rubber on the posts and wonder how on earth something like that can happen

Some other examples come to mind:

-Put wet kitten in microwave instead of oven to dry it and wonder why it died.
-Spil coffee on your lap and wonder why you get burned?

etc etc.
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Old 07-05-2009, 09:59 AM
  #4703  
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one of the key things i did when i learnt that the esc used the wire posts as a heat sink is "NOT TO PUT ON HEATSHRINK"
also i solder my wires down the side of the posts and not to the slot on the top.
Gives more contact area to handle more current and dissapate heat.
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Old 07-05-2009, 10:04 AM
  #4704  
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Just for those interested, I recently swapped from a Airtronics/Sanwa M8 to a Spectrum DX3r and it made the brakes better with exactly the same setup/motor/gearing. Calibration was done by the book for both radios.
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Old 07-05-2009, 10:46 AM
  #4705  
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Originally Posted by tongho
I burnt the esc.....it caught fire then the board was melted
Yes, we see that you burned up your ESC. That is because you put shrink wrap over the posts, which require air flow to stay cool.
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Old 07-05-2009, 10:46 AM
  #4706  
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Hi Guys,
I only race 17.5 and 13.5. Would I notice any difference running an RS Pro as opposed to running an RS? I don't know how much of a difference "on-resistance" makes. Also, Is one easier to mount over the other?

Thanks!
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Old 07-05-2009, 10:48 AM
  #4707  
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Originally Posted by ittjv
Hi Guys,
I only race 17.5 and 13.5. Would I notice any difference running an RS Pro as opposed to running an RS? I don't know how much of a difference "on-resistance" makes. Also, Is one easier to mount over the other?

Thanks!
Absolutly zero difference. ... well, there is a MINUTE difference with the Pro... slihglyt higher center of gravity, and slightly more weight.
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Old 07-05-2009, 12:34 PM
  #4708  
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Yes, there is a major difference. The pro is better based on resistance. The RS has a resistance down to .0003 ohms while the pro has a .00015 ohms. Less resistance the better.
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Old 07-05-2009, 01:23 PM
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Brake Update - At races now and set the Tekin RS to 100% brakes within the Hotwire and this solved all my braking issues, even with 17.5 and 13.5 1-cell 1/12.

I had previously started my brakes at 50%, then 70%, 80%, and then to 100%, and I had virtually no brakes until I changed Brakes back to 100%. Now I just use my radio to fine tune the brakes, which is what I guess I should have done from the start.
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Old 07-05-2009, 01:47 PM
  #4710  
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Thats what I do kn and it worked for me

On the other note about the high rollouts I ran a 4.80 with a 10.5 this weekend the track has a 205 foot straight and again experienced no braking issues at all.
Spektrum DX3r so who knows if that helps or not but just for reference.
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