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Old 01-19-2010, 11:06 AM   #10876
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Originally Posted by jkirkwood View Post
My Ballistic blew up in the 4th round at 165-170 deg.
That is weird. I had a friend of mine got his to 220 deg F at one point and his is still kicking strong. I guess it is the luck of the motor. I cooked a Checkpoint 17.5 at 200 deg F when I switched to v203 and a Trinity Pulse 17.5 at 190 deg F when I got my Tekin and downloaded v200.
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Last edited by JLock; 01-19-2010 at 03:28 PM.
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Old 01-19-2010, 11:11 AM   #10877
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4 x 1,20volt nominal is 4,80 volt and if it gets charged it will be a little higher i gues ?. Same as 2s lipo is rated as 7.4 volt but when charged it is 8.40 volt before it drops.
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Old 01-19-2010, 11:18 AM   #10878
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I'd believe it. They just seem to come to a crawl at 155*s for me. I was talking to Brandon Shells about it and he said he found the same thing. I have had mine up to 172 degrees when my fan stopped working. It seems to still work fine but I was concerned. Kind of makes me want to go back to a Duo because those seem to be fine until a little over 200*.
Brandon cooked his the week v203 came out at like 190 at Coyote. I may rebuild it and try it again. It's got a good rotor in it at around 1340-1350 on both sides. In the main I switched to a Duo 2 I had never ran and drastically missed the gearing. After 6 min main I came off at 124 deg. Since 203 came out I've had good success with 2008 version of the Orion motors. They seem to really like the advanced timing. I maybe mistaken but that's what Brandon also ran in a few heats to get him 3rd on the grid before he had to jet out of there.

But back to the Tekin discussion, does Ken surf these boards? I'd like to see what he ended up with for settings if he doesn't mind sharing.

My 17.5 1s Settings in 1/12th scale was:

Orion 17.5 Middle Timing Mark
Timing Boost: 50
RPM Range: 2300ish-5800
Turbo: 4
Delay: .3
Ramp: 2.0
Push: 30
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Old 01-19-2010, 02:49 PM   #10879
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I just tried Jeff Cuffs' 17.5 rubber on carpet setup and Its right on the mark. Temps were at 160* on my Redline @ 5 minutes. I practiced for another 5 and the temps were still only 170*. I may switch from a 5.8 FDR to a 6 just to see if there is any real difference in performance.

Thanks again to Randy and Jeff for their support.
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Old 01-19-2010, 03:10 PM   #10880
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Ok guys I have tried to do as much reading as I can but there is an overwhelming amount of information in this thread. I am starting to get a better understanding, but am still somewhat confused. What I would like is a good baseline setup that I can start with and tune from there.

The track I am running on is 72x45 with a good flowing layout with 2 180* corners. I am running a Novak 17.5ss motor with stock timing in a CRC gen Xl 12th scale. 1s lipo and a FDR of 2.75.

My first question is what is the timing of this motor and should I adjust it differently? Second, does my FDR sound about right or am I off there aswell. Third, what would be a good starting setup on my Tekin RS with software v203? Not affraid to make changes I just need a good starting point as no one locally has any suggestions for me.

Thanks

Last edited by tqcookie; 01-19-2010 at 03:24 PM.
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Old 01-19-2010, 03:19 PM   #10881
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4c nimh puting out over 6v?
When fully charged, you'll see over 6V for a brief time. Once a run is completed, the pack should be down to a little over 5V with no load.
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Old 01-19-2010, 04:11 PM   #10882
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Originally Posted by tqcookie View Post
Ok guys I have tried to do as much reading as I can but there is an overwhelming amount of information in this thread. I am starting to get a better understanding, but am still somewhat confused. What I would like is a good baseline setup that I can start with and tune from there.

The track I am running on is 72x45 with a good flowing layout with 2 180* corners. I am running a Novak 17.5ss motor with stock timing in a CRC gen Xl 12th scale. 1s lipo and a FDR of 2.75.

My first question is what is the timing of this motor and should I adjust it differently? Second, does my FDR sound about right or am I off there aswell. Third, what would be a good starting setup on my Tekin RS with software v203? Not affraid to make changes I just need a good starting point as no one locally has any suggestions for me.

Thanks
Look up a few posts. That's right on from "jkirkwood" or look for "theisgroup" posting back a page or two. His logged data is great, but will not be right for your specific motor.
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Old 01-19-2010, 05:04 PM   #10883
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Default fx speedy 2.03

hi
is there any site that explains the difference in settings for a 2.03 rs tekin esc. thanks
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Old 01-19-2010, 05:45 PM   #10884
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Will you guys be there this Sunday or are you only going to A-main on Saturday?



YGM
Hopefully A-main. But still not sure about this weekend.
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Old 01-19-2010, 06:16 PM   #10885
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hi
is there any site that explains the difference in settings for a 2.03 rs tekin esc. thanks
what do you want to know
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Old 01-19-2010, 06:21 PM   #10886
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Default My V203 setup for VTA/21.5/lipo

I got this setup via a A main racer that is well know in all classes .Is this one gonna smoke my rs speedo or will it be good to go with ????.Im kinda nervous to put it on the track so if theres a Tekin rs guru that can set me in the right direction that would be great.

VTA class
v203 software
AE TC5
novak 21.5
reedy 5000 mah lipo 35c
4.6 fdr 43/100
drag brake #4 with one way
brake strength 100 % 40 in radio
neutral width 0
voltage cut off 2c
motor type BL-FW
throttle profile #3
Sensored
timing advanced 18
reverse strength 0
push contol 0
timing boost 0
turbo boost 0
turbo delay 0.2
end rpm 9002
start rpm 4082
turbo ramp 1.0

thanks in advance
Matt R aka blackdog
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Old 01-19-2010, 06:22 PM   #10887
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Where you finding that 5cell losi pack?
It's not 5 cell, I might have unwittingly exagerated the fully charged voltage.

The sticker on the battery read "1/3AAA 150mAh 4.8V Ni-MH". I just checked the pack voltage (car was raced last Wednesday and not touched since) 4.39V. Hooked up the charger and about 5 mins later @ .5 amp, 6.43V. My local Hobbytown sells them for the Losi Micro T for $10. I think these would require recharging between rounds without fail, and from what can be determined through the heatshrink, would be a 4 cell.

Back when this 1S LiPo movement invaded 12th scale, this was the first thing I tried because it was laying around. I know there are like 5cell, 350 mA Batteries out there, but these were convienent and so far, been dependable. The "Cheese Ball" connecter needs to be changed though, and I, plug it straight into the Rx to powerup.
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Old 01-19-2010, 06:26 PM   #10888
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE View Post
what do you want to know
Try this document. Download the 203 version.

http://rcfaq.weebly.com/tekin-rs--hotwire.html
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Old 01-19-2010, 06:30 PM   #10889
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Updating the software is something you can't stop. If you unplug it during an update it can "blank" it out.

If you managed to blank you two RS's it may be a bad Hotwire, or bad software on the PC being used. Hard to say without being there or using them.

I would like to see both of you try a factory reset.
It's "blanked" as you call it. I tried a factory reset and that got the Hotwire settings to stick, but none of the lights come on and there is no tone on power-up.
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Old 01-19-2010, 06:39 PM   #10890
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i know what the delay does but what about the prfole and ramp?
also i have my 13.5 now at start of 5400 and at 18500.was at 0.5 delay.but car wasnt coming alive untill the end of the straight.i turned the delay to 0.3 and added 3 clicks to motor timing and 3 clicks of boost.alot better.

what effect would i feel by lowering the start/end of rpm range?
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