It just attaches to the upper bulkhead as seen in the pictures.

Would that help in reinforcing the upper rear bulkhead or would that add more stress to it?

It would not stress anything it is rock solid..

It all depend upon the condition of the mounting holes. I prefer not to use the plastic upper bulkhead since I already have the aluminum ones. The bulkhead itself will not be stressed but there is a little added leverage on the screw holes which is why the spacer works. It adds a little more leverage from the rear spoiler/wing thus enhancing the down force.
On my car it feels very solid. it's much better than just adding a couple of standoffs which don't have as much contact area as my spacer.

Either way, were only talking about $15 bucks.:nod:

I'm asking because the plastic upper bulkheads are very weak thin pieces of plastic/ ABS. I've had it snap twice on me when using the graphite rear shock tower. When using the plastic JS shock tower, it is okay because the shock tower flexes and takes some stress away from the upper bulkhead. I'm inquiring if the spacer helps stiffen the plastic upper bulkhead but from your answer, it appears that the "leverage" from mounting the shock tower more rearward would stress the upper bulkhead more.

$15 for the spacer is a great price. Wish you had an upper bulkhead made of aluminum that is priced similar.

On my E4 FS I have the plastic upper bulkhead and run mod 4.5T last week practicing. It actually felt I have more rear traction cause it has little rear flex.

I re-read a few pages back about the spacers. Are these the aluminum ones for $15 each ?? Didn't see any mention of additional items needed to mount them. Are there additional screws needed?

Its nice when it works but its not so nice when it breaks, especially a little too often. I hope Yodog comes up with a good solution. How about a one piece upper rear bulkhead and spacer?

If anyone is interested I have a Dave Ehrlich Team Magic RS4 in great shape with lots and lots of extra parts for sale. I'm asking only $315 shipped. It's posted in the for sale selection with pictures. PM me for details.

You had that for about six months. Why did give up on it?

Hi,

I also had some ideas so I have tried to make a new chassis. What do you think?
Allover the chassis is a little bit narrower. It should give enough flex at the rear, the front is more stiff, but I think it will be to stiff^^

I also made new topdecks, because the new chassis will have a little bit less flex now, the topdeck should have more, especially at the rear. But here also I think it´s to stiff at the front. I will change some parts after my exams and if I get some money I will try out this.

Because I don't use it and would like to pass it along to someone that does. Work and family live are keeping me away from the track. The car is awesome. By far the best car I have ever driven hands down.

Nice work Seb!
I thought I'd share a couple of pics.
I managed to cut the prototype from 2mm material. It's a bit twisty but did work quite well last weekend. Very smooth and consistent. I've got some irons in the fire to hopefully get some production versions made by summer. I made a few small modifications (not shown in these pics) to make parts fit better and a mod to the upper deck as well. I like it so far so I will keep moving forward with this project.

So the battery is just taped in? Whats holding it from moving side to side other than the tape? Will you be planning any additional chassis pieces that would hold the battery in place allowing the battery to be installed without tape with just the top and bottom plates sandwiching the battery?

I may implement some brackets but the battery sits in a pocket which will keep it from moving around.
I want to avoid having the battery contact the upper brace as it will influence the flex of the brace. This is a problem for those who squeeze in a pack that is a bit too tall into the space. The upper deck must be free to twist and flex for it to be effective and consistent.

I noticed that the steering on my E4JS has been very inconsistent and sometimes erratic. It didn't do that when I first got the car. I thought it had something to do with the aluminum upgrades I made which changed the way the chassis flexes but from what you said it now makes sense because the inconsistency started when I started using the larger capacity Lipos which fitted rather tightly. Thanks. I almost gave up on the E4 completely.

Hi,

you are right, it is very important that you have enough space between top of the LiPo pack and the Top Deck, to make sure the Chassie can work with the Flex. I used shims under the Top DeckScrews and have now minimum space of 1mm with the newest LiPo Packs.

I have a open Case by SpecR, if they can build a Gear Diff for the E4, some drivers here in Germany are using it (Yokomo and Tamiya) in rear and in front, it works perfect and give a lot of more steering and out power of the corners.

See you soon,
Marcel

So your saying that tamiya and yokomo gear diff fits the TM E4?

Rick did test the prototype chassis and car looks very consistent through out the whole race..

I think he meant that they make gear diffs for the two other cars and is asking them if they will make one for the E4, not that they actually fit our cars.

Correct, the Tamiya or Yokomo did not fit in the E4, i ask SpecR if it is possible to build GearDiff´s for the E4...

This thread has been quiet lately what's going on guys...

Been running Yodogs rear spacer and now i have a "problem" :weird::weird:.
I got a very planted rear end now and have to adjust it or the front to get more steering:sneaky::D:D
In fast sweepers i need to get of the throttle to get it to turn in,otherwise i will end up outside the track:lol:.
The car is very different to drive after placing the rear damper spacer,but in a good way.
Fastest track time for me stayed almost the same but average time has gone down a lot:D
Now i need to dail in the front end.
This was a first for me that i didn't have enough steering with the TM E4RS.
Shame that one of the nitro guys smashed into the rear of the car and broke a rear axle,the only part i didn't carry with me:o
Will try next week to get the front dailed in again.
Yodog? Many thanks for the parts;)
They work like a charm.

regards Roy

We are glad to hear that.. Just wait for the chassis it will be even better...

Even better??
Can this be possible??:D

regards Roy

Just driving the hell out of this great chassis. Now have 3 E4FS cars. Stocking up on parts deals when I can. Concentrating on VTA right now and this chassis is just outstanding for it.
Anybody heard any more news about the updated E4 from Team Magic ??

The new E4 RS 11' are basically the same us the 09' version just some minor changes... I would wait till yodog finish the final design on the chassis it will be sweet..

not a carpet track for 4 hours around me. man i sure miss diving my sedan:cry:

I had an rs and loved it! I regret selling it. I'm getting an fs tomorrow and can't wait to run it! I've been looking through this thread and it has some awesome info on the cars! I can't wait to get some '11 cars! I wish alot more people would give these cars a chance! There purely awesome in my opinion!

A lot of guys just don't give the car a chance. The only downside is car is not as free as 2 belt driven car.. But who care I like running mine on MOD...

39 modifications, including totally new flex design and possibilities aren't minor changes ;)

More news soon. We are testing many solutions.

Any more pics... I'm hoping you made an independent suspension as one of the modification..

I thought I saw reference to quite a few changes. Some that aren't easily seen. Looking forward to it.

I don't know about anyone else but if the E4 isn't as "free" as 2 belt cars, it doesn't seem to make any difference going around the track. I race 25.5 and 21.5 classes and temps are always great so there's no drag issues. The great handling helps make each lap as smooth as possible. Smooth is fast as they say. :D

Hello

What do you mean exactly about independent suspension ?

This is a point that works nice on my cars (original / own prototype / factory prototype). The only I thing I personnally modified on the suspensions is the roll center. To update it, we changed the rear uprights and front/rear upper bulkheads, and we use spacers under arm holders / pivot ball to fine tune it.

I also modified the rear shock tower, to use "normal" springs with a correct ride height.

The most important modifications are central / front flex (chassis, upper deck), rear flex (motor mount, opposite axle mount, motor position), lipo fitting, steering turnbuckle's position (roll center/bump steer), weight distribution (motor position, servo position).

The major modifications aren't impressive to see, this is not a radical change of layout, but they are made to drastically improve the car handling and performances. This is months of works (since end may 2010).

;) I'm happy with the majority of these modifications, and we have to validate some other soon.

Pic's or it didn't happen:D:lol:;)

I find my TM E4RS08 rather planted at the moment.
I now have the luxery that i need to find more steering in my car.
Working on that one tho:D:D.
Have 2 TC i am driving with but for the moment my "other" TC is faster in a single lap(by 2 tenth) but overall the TM is faster driving it for say 25 to 30 laps(about 2 tenth).
Both run the same setup ESC/motor wise and gearing is almost the same.
Need to figure out if upgrading to the E4RS11 is worth spending the money or just stay with the E4RS08 as i have a rather "special" one.


regards Roy

I'm talking about fully independent suspension without the the RF and FR suspension mount attach to the bulkheads... This should give the car a little flex on both front and rear..

OK I see.

My RF and FR suspension mounts aren't screwed anymore to the bulkhead since my second day of running with the E4RS.

This is a thing that every E4RS driver can do himself. On my cars, I place the M3x6mm screws to join the RF and FR suspension mounts inside the bulkhead, not outside. So, the suspension mounts are totally free to move up/down, the screw is only a "guide" for them. It's a great difference on the rear, where flex is more better this way. I also use plastic rear bulkheads when I need more flex.

---
To obtain more corner speed, I usually work on the roll center (you can try the upper hole on the rear uprights, with 1mm shim under the RF and RR suspension mounts, it works very good). For stock spec categories (10.5 / 13.5), I usually run without anti roll bars, with Kfactory 25 or 26 springs on the front, and 26 or 27 on the rear.

Bumpsteer is also very important. I use a minimum of 13mm spacers between front steering block and pivot ball.

I'll try that thank for tips..

Found my steering problem
 

I've been having a problem with the E4JS having too much steering such that it handled erratically. Did everything possible to reduce steering such as stiffer springs, reduced front droop and radio dual rate reduction and it still didn't help.:mad:

I gave up on it and went with my XRay and it too had the same problem except not as bad. Looked at the XRay manual to check set up and found that it had little to no ackerman. Changed it and problem was solved. Looked at the E4JS and it had the same problem. The steering pivot was on the front hole instead of the rear hole. Had I known to change that it would have saved me a bunch of frustration.

Still looking forward to Yodog's chassis conversion. This thread hasn't been bumped in almost a month.

Hello

You can try to add 0.5 or 1mm spacer under the FF and FR arm holder.

You also can add shims under the inner upper turnbuckle's balls

You could also check if the problem is not on the rear... if you have too low rear grip, you can think you have too much front grip.

;)