Shorty pack fits right across the chassis. So its weight would be centered. The motor is slightlyoffset so movin electrics around could get the balance without added ballast. The onlyreason this wouldnt work is the pullies sit insidethe chassis perimeter. Simply making new ones that have a longer core would push them outside and make room for the battery. Pullies weigh nothing.

You could still run longitudal or transverse np with the same pullies or back to stock.
The only thing that would concern me is roars requirement for a normal 2s to fit.

I wasn't even considering ROAR. The layout as it is can accommodate a standard pack but leaves little room for the steering assembly. I can't imagine that this design would go any further than a prototype or two just to see how it works. I'm curious if using a shorty pack like this would yield much benefit and I can breathe some new life into my old E4 parts bin.

I'll rearrange the layout to see how a multi-battery config. might be possible.

Thanks. I remember this now from a few posts back. I had issues with the battery retention. None of my lipos have the bumps. In fact I've never seen a Gens Ace pack with the bumps either. Anyways, its almost there. All you need are a few small graphite pieces to hold the battery in using the existing top deck.

What you need is a piece of graphite that screws onto the chassis on the belt side to keep the battery from going out side. Then on the electronics side you do what Exotek did with the TA-06.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7145/6...acef0077_z.jpg

You can also make another sub-plate holding the dual rack steering or cut holes for the dual rack steering on the lower chassis in front of the shorty pack and make another graphite retainer to hold the shorty pack from going front to back ala pan car (ie Speedmerchant or CRC). That way there's the option to run the shorty pack with the lower chassis mounted steering or standard 2s pack with the stock steering.

Give it a thought.:)

F/S E4's
 

Hi All
I have 2 x E4's plus 1 x E4rs with about $1000 of spares. Not able to race TC's
and need to get rid of these $220 plus post E-Mail for pictures
Cheers james

ah... jesus. thats tempting lol. though. ive barely delved into the dumpster sloe4 sent me... lol. wouldn't be bad to have another e4 for gtvta/bashing...

pics
 

Can i get pics to [email protected]

Having listened to many of you guys, I've started to simplify things a bit.
Here is a start that will address the dual bellcrank steering as well as bumpsteer.
It is a shorty pack conversion that will move a few things around but keep all the stuff related to the bulkheads and motor mount as they are.
Here is a list of new parts that will need to be added:
1) Chassis plate 2.5mm 75mm wide
2) Top deck 2.0mm (still pondering a bridge from front bulkheads to Steering posts)
3) Dual crank steering assembly
3) Strap down battery stay brackets.
4) Single point servo mount
5) CF rear belt side brace W/fan mount

so a strange question.. i wanna put together a car to run GT at our upcoming speedweekend. apparently no weight limit but i have to run a crappy tamiya silver can motor. competing with VTA cars running brushless ha.
what would be the LIGHTEST e4 to grab, or would i have to mishmash one together using parts from all the different models? im thinking the JS with the nylon parts would be better as nylon is much lighter than aluminum, poly shocks are lighter, aluminum drive shafts all around and all the cf bits? or maybe your conversion yodog if you could machine the bulkheads out of nylon or acetel to reduce their weight?
im not sure if its possible but i want to try to build a car with 1000gram rtr weight.
or if possible, WGT min weight.
shorty pack, 12th scale servo, lightweight spoked wheels lol. pointless project but should be fun.

fricken double post lol.

Shorty
 

Most people already have lots of hardcase standard length batteries. It would seem a little counterproductive to redesign the car to accept shortys. If you need to spend money for the conversion, then spend even more on shortys, what's the point? I don't know if it's ROAR legal with the short batteries.

there are lots of considerations here but i think cost is going to be a very big one. how many people are going to be willing to drop $150 on a conversion for a car you can get for $150? lol. "that if yodog or i put out a conversion, cost for us would be well over $100 lol.."
to optimize teh flex and layout the stuff better, it will require a new main chassis, upper chassis, probably motor mount and layshaft carrier and any other bits needed to do the flex thing.
the simplest thing is probably going to be an e4d style upper chassis with a lower chassis that doesn't have the big ass hole for battery removal. optional for me would be a new front shaft carrier, because the stock one seriously limits moving the battery forward which is what needs to happen to stop mangling those stupid side bulkheads we have to cut for lipo/brushless mounting.

i was thinking of doing a sort of 12th scale pod for the motor. would be semi rigid, but would require widening the chassis slightly to keep strength with a big ass hole where the motor is. it would be suspended between the buklheads and a middle bulkhead . this would be more brushless friendly, and lipo friendly. pecking at it slowly. still learning after all. im sure yodog has something epic on his board.

Well guys, If all we want to do is replace the stock chassis and leave everything else the same, I can do that. chassis plates will cost around $70 to make. In addition, if I change the top deck to move the pulley block to the top, we would need longer belts which will add about $15 for the 2 belts and about $20 for the deck. We can then move the steering assembly below and you would likely still have the option to use the TM single or dual bellcrank. This will improve the bumpsteer. It's true that there is little reason to add $150 to a car that's likely only worth $150 but it is unique and with all the improvements, even more so. I currently run a TC6 because I wanted to be competitive but I still have a desire to make my E4 better for the sake of self accomplishment.
I'm in no way concerned about being ROAR legal regarding the whole shorty pack issue. I just seemed like a novel way of making the E4 work it's best by being the narrowest chassis around and the best balanced to boot.

Just do it rick I'll be the first guy the get the chassis from I don't really giving the E4 another shot that's why I still have all 4 of them lol..

Hey guys. I just got the E4D MF Pro and I need a pinion gear. I'm not sure what tooth count to get. I'll be running a 9T ezrun combo.
Can anyone recommend a pinion gear tooth count for me?

Hey guys. I just got the E4D MF Pro and I need a pinion gear. I'm not sure what tooth count to get. I'll be running a 9T ezrun combo.
Can anyone recommend a pinion gear tooth count for me?

alright. my solidworks skills arent quite up to yodogs snuff but here is what im working on.
I want to maintain compatability with stock lipos which really doesnt give me any more room to move componentry around.
Basically, i want more room for mounting the lipo without having to cut up the car as we have had to.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...4rs_lipo_2.jpg

this is a very rough block up of how i might do this. The battery hole will go away. ill leave slits for users to use strap tape, or lipo blocks which ive yet to look at.

the motor mount and layshaft mount will be replaced with new ones that will have an xray style so you can install/remove the motor vertically without removing any of the chassis parts.
under the motor and the new bulkheads the chassis will be hogged out to .5 mm in an even pattern in the middle to maintain the same amount of material left/right. the new motor mounts and motor will be suspended in this pocket by a center bulkhead and a set of crossbars whcih will mate to a new topdeck that connects in the middle.
there is also a new crossbar just under the layshaft to add strength.

i cant really imagine moving the steering. using exclusivly shorty lipos you could, but the front shaft really gets in the way. id have to move it backward and change out to different belts. the single bellcrank seems to work fine with enough bumpsteer spacers on the steering blocks.

definitely not a polished drawing, just wanted to sketch it out and see if everything would fit while still allowing adjustability.

fricken double post!

Valk new design
 

I really like the new design. It would address the flex issue as well as the motor mount and what you call the big ass battery hole. Why bother milling out the center of the chassis? Just make the battery slide out the side (after removing the belt). I personally hate strapping tape, so the lipo blocks would be great. Redesigned side belt tensioner that won't interfere with the battery removal would be nice.

ill take a look at some kind of mechanical retention for the battery once i refine the motor pod setup.
hogging out the motor plate area just allows the motor to sit at stock height and allows the bulkheads to flex without hitting the chassis plate. i wont be reducing the thickness for the battery. wouldnt really work to help the flex unless i take material from the entire chassis equally.

busy weekend with racing and family crap. had to reformat my desktop which i was putting off for a while.

did a little cleaning up of new layout. still not sure if i want to cut out as much material from the chassis plate or not. its in there for the time being but i might reduce the square as i somewhat doubt this pod is going to flex a lot. this should sort out the flex though as all the mounting positions to the main chassis and top deck will be symetrical.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...E4RS_LIPO2.jpg

hey guys, quick q....i just picked up a used e4 rs that was barely used and i had to replace the front belt and pulley. the new belt seem too tight that i had to take off the front belt tensioner...is this how they were out of the box ? it should break in with use right ? any suggestions ? thanks

Yeah, I found that's kinda normal... There are also 2 different sized pulleys available for the mid pulley block. 17t and 18t so you may want to check to see if it's the 17t or not. They should both be the same.

oh shyte lol, i didn't even think of there being different size pullies for it lol. I took my front belt tensioner off but there really should be a better place for the side belt tension. i can crank that thing all the way down and it will stick skip teeth under breaking or hard corner exit.

the pully is an 18 tooth

If that is with the 35 diff pulley, that is to tight to start with.
It should be 17/35 in a E4RS

regards Roy

For Valk or Yodog
 

Can anyone play with the software? Can it be downloaded? Also: do either of you have any experience with a pin router? I'm thinking of making one with the pin on top and the router underneath to play with a couple of designs.

Well, SolidWorks is not freeware but you might find something for CAD that is.
There are maybe something for Linux based machines. I for one have no experience with a pin router. I use a CNC tabletop router machine which is great for making 2.5D parts.

So, baught a new to me, but still 2 year old video card a couple weeks ago. been training vrc, going to saturday indoor racers and getting addicted to guildwars 2 now that i have something that can play it.

came from a Geforce 7900GT which was madly overclocked and modified.. but was never really compatible with windows 7 ha. HD5850 i got for really cheap is much much better.

i really need a new pc, but rc kinda killed that this year; buying a WGT and NT1, and now replacing my radio and all rxs ha.

but.. getting back to my Lipo/brushless conversion of my E4, a little progress has been made.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...7/e4rslipo.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...7/_shorty1.jpg


I will include carbon fiber lipo blocks that mount under the center bulkhead, and under the front shaft carrier. the carrier still needs to be trimmed to allow room for the full size lipo, though if its simple enough to machine, i might make one of those too if there is enough interest in conversion kits.

the front lipo block can be optionally removed from the forward position and moved backward to allow shorty packs to fit in the rear ward position. an optional shim can take place of the rear lipo block, and will allow the rear lipo block to shift forward to allow the shorty pack to move for and aft.

I also want to work out how to allow shorty packs to work transverse. on racks with slow speed, sharp corners, more roll is beneficial. I would accomplish this by lenthening the body of the side belt pullys allowing the full 96mm of the chassis for the battery. this would require more lipo blocks to be made, so i think it would be optional.

here is where im at now. i can machine most of the parts now. the layshaft side bulkhead will give me some grief but working on it.

not bad for my first cad experience at all!

So, baught a new to me, but still 2 year old video card a couple weeks ago. been training vrc, going to saturday indoor racers and getting addicted to guildwars 2 now that i have something that can play it.

came from a Geforce 7900GT which was madly overclocked and modified.. but was never really compatible with windows 7 ha. HD5850 i got for really cheap is much much better.

i really need a new pc, but rc kinda killed that this year; buying a WGT and NT1, and now replacing my radio and all rxs ha.

but.. getting back to my Lipo/brushless conversion of my E4, a little progress has been made.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...7/e4rslipo.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...7/_shorty1.jpg


I will include carbon fiber lipo blocks that mount under the center bulkhead, and under the front shaft carrier. the carrier still needs to be trimmed to allow room for the full size lipo, though if its simple enough to machine, i might make one of those too if there is enough interest in conversion kits.

the front lipo block can be optionally removed from the forward position and moved backward to allow shorty packs to fit in the rear ward position. an optional shim can take place of the rear lipo block, and will allow the rear lipo block to shift forward to allow the shorty pack to move for and aft.

I also want to work out how to allow shorty packs to work transverse. on racks with slow speed, sharp corners, more roll is beneficial. I would accomplish this by lenthening the body of the side belt pullys allowing the full 96mm of the chassis for the battery. this would require more lipo blocks to be made, so i think it would be optional.

here is where im at now. i can machine most of the parts now. the layshaft side bulkhead will give me some grief but working on it.

not bad for my first cad experience at all!

question. are the RS2 suspesion parts compatible? importantly, Chubs.
i broke one within minutes on carpet and wondering if there anything stronger i could use. i have a set of kfactory hubs but didnt get the bearings with them. seems they use a non standard bearing size =(

got a great deal on a couple of new cars so ill probably be letting my E4 go to pay for it.

if anyone is looking for a nicely hopped e4 with a bunch of parts, ill probably try to sell it at $200.
comes with both alu bulkheads, yodog spacer, alu hubs all around, lightweight spool, spool/oneway, wolf hobbies lipo tray and a ton of random new and used parts.

I love this car. it handles very well and id still be running it. just found a really good deal on a pair of newer cars.

my development project probably wont continue, but i can send the models to anyone who wanted to continue.

i just picked up an E4 Rs in a trade and was wondering.....what makes the steering smoother? the dual or single bellcrank steering? thanks yall

I think most people prefer the single bellcrank but i thought the dual was less prone to bump steer ect. you need to add like 7mm to the outer arm not just the stock suggested length to get rid of it almost entirely. then its a matter of how tight you do the ballstuds/bottom screw. i got in the habbit of leatting some threadlock dry on the threads, then tightening it up just a thread or so off of full. otherwise it was pretty bindy for whatever reason.

also, make sure you run the center brace over the battery, and make sure you have your left/right throws set correctly. the servo can very easily tweak the chassis under lock. like... really easy lol.

thanks valv. the car looks really unique. looks to have a drivetrain as tough as nails (similar to 1/8th scale layout) so i know it will take the juice my 4 pole tekin 3300 can put out. gave the car a good looking over and the steering/bumpsteer issue had me worried. but thanks to your advice i feel better about it. i plan to mount up the electrinics soon as the weather breaks and start getting a feel for it...then later do some dailin and tweakin!

i have a new in box E4 FS CD for sale if anyone is interested. send me an e-mail, [email protected] price is negotiable. i bought it new from wolf hobbies about 5 years ago, and never ever used it.

hey guys im looking for some parts for the e4fs

what im looking for are

all the belts and 2 oneway diff

if you have them or know where i can get them pm me thanks

Shoot them----> http://www.rcmanufactory.com/ a mail and they will supply you with parts

Regards Roy

www.rcshopping.com

They're easier to deal with because you can put stuff in a cart and check out like most other web stores. Plus they list prices in USD and don't charge anything extra for taking Paypal as payment.

You can also find parts at www.amainhobbies.com

We are the North American Distributor for Team Magic HARD and K Factory we carry parts for all E4 G4 Trooper Etc...1 855 4TMUSA1 :nod::nod:

single will make it smoother:nod: