Most lipo's up to 4000MAH hardcase will fit without major mods.
Up to 5000MAH you will need to space the top deck about 2 mm.
In both cases you need to dremel a bit of the front middle axle holder and of the side belt tensioner(where the lipo hit's it).
Above 5000MAH you need to space the top deck 4 mm.


Regards Roy

Not fast enough ? Do you think this is because of the drive train ?

dont they use different steering systems?

maybe thats why you cant get them setup the same

As long as he has it free with no binding 3 belts shouldn't be a problem. I know when I had my E4FS my drivetrain was as free as most 2 belt cars and in most cases was better than pretty much everyone I race with unless they has the JRXS Type R which to me is the smoothest drivetrain of all.

I got not problem with mine.... Battery fits perfect like glove.

I upgraded the orginal E4 to a single steering bell crank and they are way a lot better. I just can't get the E4 RS 09' to handle like the orginal E4 probably because of front and back balance issue that I have stated above the motor was move few mm towards the front which makes the car to over steer and no rear end traction.

Since we got a lot of talk regarding gear diff does anyone of you guys know if the GEAR DIFF on the G4 will fit the E4?

I am running in 13.5 and the drive train was not the issue. It's probably because this was RROC and most of the other drivers were better (faster) than me. I couldn't find the right motor/gearing setup till the last day and didn't have the front end grip that I would have liked. Maybe it was my driving.:cry: The car worked well it just didn't respond like most of the other cars.
I made a lot of changes that should have induced mad oversteer but the car pretty much felt the same after each change. Maybe I needed the 3.0mm chassis instead of the stock '09' chassis. My E4C1 seems to have more steering and perhaps it's because of the stiffer chassis plate.
Regarding the Batteries, I have 2mm spacing on my top deck and with the use of the tray that I make, I have room to spare with my Fantom 5200/50c LiPo. My trays will yield more depth and all around space for most lipo hard case packs. The cavity in the tray is 138x47mm and has sharper radius in the corners allowing the more square packs to fit with no problem.
Of course some parts have been slightly modified like the mid belt bearing block and a little off of the rear tray mount but that's about it. The '09' car has a bit more room to work with but there should be no problem getting a 25mm high LiPo to fit. The stock tray sets the battery high in the chassis and this is wasted space. That's why I decided to design a better tray. the bottom is only 1.5mm thick vs the 3mm of the stock one. It's also relieved to allow packs with humps to sit as low as possible.

Kim, we can work on your setup at the next race. I'm sure we can get it sorted out. We should have talked to Dave at the RROC as he definately knows how to set the '09' car up for mod.

Rick,

Bring me one of the battery tray if you will have one available next race. In regards to setup I'm putting my orginal E4 back together for MOD for next race but if MOD don't pick up next race I will go to 17.5 that's the biggest class we have right now.

If you got an extra mod motor, I'll run with ya.:eek:

I will have a tray for you at the next race.

I got LRP X12 3.0T I can lend you:sneaky:

Sweet!

It will be crazy fast :sneaky: But we are running point series right now rick so you have to decide which class you wanted to run.

what wheels is everyone running? I had a un-used set of tamiya wheels laying around so I put sorex tires on them and I am getting nothing but binding issues. I threw on some HPI wheels for comparison and those have no issues.
Robert

You picked the worst wheels of them all on your first pick. To answer your question, ANYTHING OTHER THAN TAMIYA! The reason for the binding is that the Tamiyas are most likely some kind of spoke wheel. Tamiya wheels are heavily gussetted on the spokes and hence its the spoke gussets that is binding on your hubs.

The best wheel to use are the dish rims and preferably made of some durable material that IS NOT HARD. I've had some dish wheels made of hard plastic that shatterred as soon as it touched anything.

In fact nowadays, the choice of rims is no longer an issue because most people like me buy the premounted Sorex or equal and they're all mounted on some type of dish wheel that will fit the E4 with no problems.

well this is good to know..lol...I had them just laying around and thought I would use them..lol.. Guess I will be going with the premounted sorex wheels from now on.
Robert

We used the Solaris premounts at the RROC (control tire) and they worked quite well on the E4. Good fit and good grip.:nod:
I'm sure they are cheaper than the Sorex as well.

I'm not too concerned about the points, Boys just wanna have fun:lol:
At least I can back off the power a bit to make the car more drivable.:eek:

ok I will have the motor with me next race.

SOOPAAA!

Orion Vortex BL
 

Does anyone know if the Orion Vortex motor will fit in an E4?

yep.. just
 

It just fits, you need to remove the top transaxle support to get it in.

Have just noticed there are quite a few simularities between the 416WE/416X cars setup sheets and the E4 chassis.

Has anyone tried to put a 416 setup on there E4?

I dont understand why.

you cannot compare apples to oranges

just buy a 416.

The suspension geometry may be similar but most TC's are set up based on the same principals so the adjustments may seem alike.
Did your Battery tray and outdrives arrive?

Not yet I suspect they are getting processed by customs / postal system. Customs is really quite variable sometimes it's 2days other times 2 weeks just sitting in Vancouver. So frustrating.

I just have an existing 416we and was curious what changes people have found necessary to get existing setups to work on the e4 platform.

Where here in the US can I purchase this E4 car and about how much? I've just found out about this car today and didn't feel like reading 221 pages to find my answer. Oh how durable is this car? I race off-road 1/10 & 1/8th scale and I want to try on-road 1/10th for the first time. I have a Xray M18 that I have raced with some buddies but never owned a 1/10th on-road car. Or is this car to advanced for me, if so what do you'll recommend for a first time on-road touring car. Oh the guys here are using 13.5BL for touring. I have test drove some of the different cars they have but looking for something different. Maybe this isn't the best idea but that's why I'm asking.

Wolfhobbies.com - If you are looking for brand new, I purchased mine used off ebay for 40% off.

The durability of the car will completely depend on your driving and the people you are racing with. Last race my front nuckle broke due to being t-boned mid corner.

Would say if you are going to race 13.5bl you are getting yourself into the deep end of the pool. Faster the class you get into the higher your initial fustration level is going to be.

I heard of a few people using xray shocks with the car? what shock ends do u need for them to work?

tenpins77 :)

I'm using tamiya black short springs no modification necessary on the E4 stock shocks but I will upgrade to the tamiya shocks soon.

:nod:

Does anyone run 17.5 rubber with the E4. Is it fast.

I have and yes it is especially if you have the Tekin speedo.

the way the E4 cars handle the infield/turns/switchbacks is IMO what sets them apart

When I had my E4FS and ran 17.5 I was able to keep up as the 3 belt system didn't slow the car up. I'm looking at going back to the E4 again. I really liked running that car as it always handled well for me.:nod:

Here are some pics of the battery tray installed.

A few more...:D

Note that the battery pack is a Fantom 5200mah/50C.
as long as you have a standard ROAR legal hardcase pack, it should fit quite nicely.
Some of the older SMC packs are not likely to fit due to the very sharp corners and extended length. (139mm ROAR max.)
The tray at this time has a 138mm X 47mm cavity.

Ride height problem
 

Hi all
I recently bought an e4fs and have been having some problems getting the ride height down to a reasonable level, I've found some setup sheets for carpet racing and they all want a 4-5mm ride height with team magic pink and purple springs. But those springs are much longer than stock and particularly in the rear I need 6mm or more droop to get the car to sit right. Is this right or am I missing something with my setup?
The car is used for 540 racing with a 4000mah lipo and a min weight of 1.425 kg

Thanks
Mitch

so I'm on the look out for either this or the losi. The losi seems to have quite a bit of success, whereas this car I have not heard of doing much. Or please correct me if I'm wrong.

Does this car get it done in the big events?

losi pretty much dropped all their drivers, but still do ok in the hands of privateers.

How old of a version is the E4RS that has dual steering bell cranks? Is this the 09 version or an older car than the 09 E4RS?