correct me if im wrong, but I thought the e4rs was introduced in 2009, so all the e4rs are 2009

The rack steering is on the Orginal E4 and I think latter JS.

Any help with my earlier post?

Tyre diam?
 

I was going to mention tyres.. running foams? at what diam? My rubbers are at 62mm and IC foams start at > 64mm.

I dont think there's downstops on an E4 and the only time Ive had prolems like that the CV's or the Sways were locking up and thats mainly on a G4

Oh and one other, no spacers under a ball end cap and it bound on Losi car.

So remove your shocks, ensure everything is free and happy.

Mitch...
 

Notice you in ACT, here in Brissy.. If you need I can slap some full foams on my son's and get the geometry for you. With shocks off, enusre they are working well and are you using correct shock ball caps and can check the length.

Thanks for the offer, Im using foams at 63 ish mm, no sways on the rear (where the problem is) Nothing is locking up or binding.
Its just that i have to use more droop to get the ride height, , which is also putting some pretension on the springs. Without this droop im at about 9mm high in the rear. The fronts need no extra droop with the shock collars wound all the way up to.
Ill try to get some pics up and the setup im trying to use is the Olivier gremillet Trets-ligue setup from the Petitrc website

Thanks

Thanks for the offer, Im using foams at 63 ish mm, no sways on the rear (where the problem is) Nothing is locking up or binding.
Its just that i have to use more droop to get the ride height, which is also putting some pretension on the springs. Without this droop im at about 9mm high in the rear. The fronts need no extra droop with the shock collars wound all the way up to.
Ill try to get some pics up and the setup im trying to use is the Olivier gremillet Trets-ligue setup from the Petitrc website

Thanks

These are some pics from my car,
The second is the droop with shocks on,
The third is the droop with the shocks off, is this ammount of flex usual?
The fourth is the stock springs and the Team Magic springs for the E4

If you are going to use springs other than Team Magic springs you have to use a short springs like tamiya short spring or K-factory. Other manufacturer have a longer springs thats why you are not getting the proper ride hide. You can make it work but you have to replace the shock retaining cups with associated ones I believe.

Don't use droop to adjust your ride you are going to have handling issues.

I installed the battery tray I got from Yodog today and my battery fits like a glove on my E4 I'm using TP 5000. Since the battery tray is only 1mm thick the battery seat lower on the chassis eliminating the need of the 2mm spacer to raise the top deck and made the COG even more lower. Good job Rick I'll get another one so let me know when will you get some more.

They are TM springs and they are also the same length as the k factory ones at 23.5mm the stock TM are 21mm.
What associated shock retaining cups do i use?

I know, this is why ive asked how to get it set without doing this.

Thanks

You shouldn't have a problem adjusting your ride height.

The single crank steering used to be optional until the 09 car came out then it was installed as the default steering system. All previous E4 cars had the dual crank system. The E4FS, E4RS and the 09 RS can have either system installed. TM introduced the E4 then updated to both the E4FS and E4RS to make the car more specific to either foam or rubber tires. The 09 E4RS just further refined and updated the E4RS to accept brushless motors and LiPo batteries better. The Plastic fantastic was introduced around the same time as the 09 car. Now TM seems to be focusing on drifting options for the car.
I don't get the whole drifting thing but to each his own.:rolleyes:

Maybe it's just me but don't most foam drivers run their tires a bit shorter than what I see in your pics?

Glad you like the tray Kim. I have one more left and I hope to have more made real soon. it's always nice to have more than one tray so you can have a second or third battery ready to go right into the car.:nod:

[QUOTE=Mitch-e4fs;7568229]They are TM springs and they are also the same length as the k factory ones at 23.5mm the stock TM are 21mm.
What associated shock retaining cups do i use?

Use these ones http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ips-and-Cups-4
and trim off the part that goes against the shock end flush and you will be able to get ride height.

Perhaps wind shock ball caps... shorten your shocks?

Im assuming the Drift thing is to use up parts from older models in parrallel to new releases. Spreading their market I think.

[QUOTE=Rockpyle;7570662]
Yes, TM shock spring retainers and ball ends are short as the cup inserts into the spring retainer. If not using the TM ones, you may have too much shock length.

Bring me another battery tray next race Rick for my 09' car.

Small question Mitch,

Do you use the original FS rear suspension arms??
If so switch to the RS or JS rear arms and you have more play.
The lower pickup point(bottum) is different then the one on the original FS arms.
I had the same problem with my FS and put the RS or JS arms on the car and poof problem solved even with the TM springs.

regards Roy

Fixed. This was exactly the problem, it appears the RS arms are quite different to the FS, no spacers at either end and the ball mount is closer to the wheel so the shocks get a bit more length and you cant fit 30mm rear foams either.

Thanks all

Your welcome:D

regards Roy

Have a question. Currently my local hobby shop only has Team Associated parts. Was curious if the Team Associated (TC5) spring set works on this car?

Have already tried the xray springs and they are quite noticeably larger.

I do believe the TC5 springs will work. I personally bought the team magic springs to run on my 09rs and they work beautifully. I personally wouldn't deviate from what is made for that car. I know others Like mixing and matching, or have more experience with other parts and prefer those, but I personally have not had bad luck with Original Parts. One thing I will say is, another place you can buy parts is RCMUSHROOM.COM. I love wolf hobbies personally, but after placing a 200 dollar order with WolfHobbies and then finding out I could have bought all my parts from RCMUSHROOM for like 33% cheaper........ I was pissed!! So, if you need just regular cheap parts fast, wolf is the way to go. If you need aluminum parts, or a big order and can wait the time for it to get there from over seas....... You can save yourself alot of money by buying from rcmushroom.

IMHO, The team Magic springs are the way to go. It's built for that car, and it works well on it too.

Took a look at the Kfactory K4902 spring set. Are the spring weights the numbers on the tag or is that the wire diameter. If it's the spring weight then the softest springs would only be good for the front.

TC5 springs at 1" or 25.4mm which is quite a bit larger then the TM ones.

Found some Losi JRX-S springs in the basement and they fit but are super short 21mm

Can also get the Tamiya short springs locally do they fit?

Purchased a K-factory springs from wolfhobbies have not tried it yet.

I always used the short Tamiya springs on my E4. They fit great and worked well for me.

I have the kfactory spring set and they dont feel like the spring weights are the numbers,the softest 21 feels like a Tamiya red,to me anyway:lol:

Hi all I have two E4s, one E4 and one E409 haven't raced them yet,would like to know what one to keep,I have been reading on here the 09 isn't as good as the E4,is this true?.thanks

There is only minor differences between the cars. I would use one as a experimental car to test setups and the second as your event driver.

You can easily make both of them the same with only some minor part changes.

:nod::nod:

For me like the original E4 works best especially on asphalt.

Hi guys, Im distributing Team Magic in Mexico, basically Offroad, but we are trying to carry Onroad too..

Does anyone tell me what parts break the most or have need constant replacement? so I may order those for stock?

For all E4's

1. Front bumper holder. (the plastic part that holds onto the foam)
2. Front and Rear lightweight upper bulkhead. (its thin and when sanwiched between the alum. bulkhead and graphite shock tower, it becomes the weak link in between)
3. Servo savers (I've had two servo savers that have gone bad on me in the last 6 months)

For the JS and Drift

1. Front chassis plate (the chassis is modular to limit breakage closest to the point of impact)
2. Rear chassis plate (same as front chassis plate)

Other than that, the usual pieces that would break on any other car such as hubs, suspension arms and drive axles. Plus the wear parts which are the belts, bearings, diff rings, diff balls and maybe pulleys.

I want to note that since running 17.5 with timing advance (Tekin v203), damage/breakage from track mishaps and also wear have been more severe due to the speed and force. I'm currently rebuilding my E4 to run in 21.5 non-timing spec because its much easier on the both parts and tires.

To be honest with you, the only parts I've broken have been the front CVD's and 1 rear arm.
And now that I've corrected the problem with the steering throw I have yet to break another CVD. The car is pretty durable once some of the key parts have been upgraded like the hub carriers and belts.
I would suggest contacting Wolf at wolfhobbies.com as he is the U.S. distributor and will have plenty of feedback regarding breakage statistics not to mention he makes some great upgrades for the E4.

TEAM MAGIC E4 EP
 

does any one use brake disk on their EP
I tried a set (speed way pal)but it never work.

Lower Arms Front . (Grub screw for C-Hub Pins )

Outdrives and CV's

Belts front and Rear

And Pulleys

I played aroudn with my E4RS FS non09
What i ended up liking it better as this:

E4FS buttom Chassis (Thick Carbon Fiber)
E4RS Top Deck (Thin Carbon Fiber)
E4 Dual Link Steering instead of the new Single

Setup Medium Traction Track, this buidl works well for me for an allrounder.