Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Sorry for the delayed response. Just got home from a long road trip to SoCal; including, two days of testing my WGT cars at TQ in Chino.

I could not find the post Brian Bodine (Slapmaster6000) made about old/new center/side springs for WGT; but, go to the 1/12 Forum, Page 2668, Post #40012 (dated 10/30/13) for a dialog between Brian and others about the equivalency of the old/new CRC side springs.

Bill

racer034life

iTrader: (1)

do anh of you use the long frontend. As a new driver as far as pan car ive been told this will take out mid corner steering! I do turn in to early with my wgt car but then when i do this i get to close to the board and tap. Will the long frontend help me with this?

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

I now use the long dual-mount upper arms for carpet racing (usually high traction) and standard arms for asphalt (usually lower traction). The long upper arms come pre-drilled for placing the pivot pins in one of two locations (long or standard); so, they are dual-purpose.

The longer arms yield less camber change (gain) under load in corners. This is very helpful in preventing traction rolling in high bite conditions. For me, the long arms are mandatory at major events like the IIC, Carpet Nats, etc. when high traction comes into play.

You also need to buy the CRC #3277 Graphite Cross Brace to mount the long arms on your WGT car. This part was originally built for 1/12th scale cars; so, you have to dremel off the center section to utilize the separate side pieces on your wider WGT car. This piece works with the long arms to lessen camber gain as much as possible.

Other ways to lessen camber gain (in smaller increments)...Use CRC #3279 Roll Center Kit shims or CRC #3230 ProStrut Roll Center Kit to raise the upper arms.

With less camber gain, you should also see that your front tires wear more evenly (inside to outside).

Cheers!

Bill

WIITA

iTrader: (43)

Still bill is right on with the long front end. A faster option with out putting the long front end on is to use the roll center adjusters. IMO the 2.5mm adjuster under the block is very similar to running the long arm with the 2mm h brace. This will give you a chance to run the car like you have it now, come in and toss on the 2.5, readjust toe and camber and go back out. You will see right away if you like it or not. I always run the 2.5 to get rid of the camber gain. IMO it makes it a lot more predictable and you can drive it a lot harder.

FL_SilverEvo8

iTrader: (14)

What one are you liking more? The SE or LE? How far off are the set up's for both?

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

My LE has much of what SG1 (Wayne) has previously posted on this string about his evolving WGT carpet setup. My LE is an extremely developed car that is currently at its best on asphalt. This setup makes for a very easy to drive car which can be very fast too.
I am thinking that the wider LE chassis makes for more weight transfer in the corners which can be more advantageous on asphalt.

Currently, my two SE's are setup for either carpet or asphalt.

Because we have our Region 12 carpet races coming up at TQ Racing in Chino, CA next month, I spent last Friday and Saturday testing at that far away track (360 miles). Was fairly satisfied with getting my carpet SE to within 2/10ths of the current track record with plenty more potential for improvement. Track conditions at TQ were very good; plus, it is great to find so many dedicated racers when I travel to this full-time carpet track.

Just returned home from a week long vacation; so, I have several other things to attend to for now. Will hopefully post more about my SE carpet setup in a few days. Nothing rad about it because the car is nearly stock in its current configuration.

Bill

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

On my car it has the 1/10 front kingpins and springs. Under the springs there are several shims/washers. Whats the point of these? I'm not talking about the plastic one thats shown in the manual either. Is this just a preload type adjustment on the front end to get the correct ride height?

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Odin,

Sounds like a good assessment. So far, I have never needed to add shims or washers there on a 1/10th kingpin; but, it could be useful for certain setups.

What is the distance from the bottom of the steering block to the bottom of the groove for the c-clip on the kingpin? Is it about 0.600"? Are both distances equal?

Bill

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Hi Wayne,

Still hoping for your SE setup before I head off to the Region 12 Carpet Races on April 4-6 in SoCal. Would get it on one of my SEs...

Thanks.

Bill

racer034life

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for the information on the longarm frontend still bill. Parts will be ordered Friday and i keep you all updated.

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

John Wiita had a great post too. You now have all the options and should test for which one suits you.

Bill

racer034life

iTrader: (1)

I will be testing this with in a month due to running tc for now. New car my wgt car will be back on track. Has anyone tried the TM racing tires over bsr.

sg1

iTrader: (79)

Hey Bill,

My poor car is in a pile of pieces going through a rebuild, so I can't get a pic But, here's what I just ran:

1/12 kingpins with .50 springs with min. droop (.01" gap between stearing block and lower pivot balls while sitting on the table)
0* castor blocks with high roll center graphite shims
All castor shims back
1.5* camber and slight toe out.
2.01" tires, to purple line sauced
4mm clearance
new green center shock spring with 35wt. oil
2mm droop
.55 side springs (just touching)
20K in tubes (i did raise them like the LE)
2.05" tires ,narrowed (3/16" on insides)
4mm clearance
sauced 3/4 center of tire

sg1

iTrader: (79)

Keep in mind that was on a very high bite carpet track

If the traction is low try 7 or 10K in the tubes
and
more traction on the tires (full rear, almost 1/2 front)


One other thing..

With a Hobbywing 1s esc, 35 drag break to start

uscgretired

iTrader: (11)

Bill,

Is there a post or setup sheet that describes your LE asphalt setup? I run mine on parking lot asphalt in club races and it is anything but easy to drive! Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill