monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

No. They're double strength. I think that may be the problem.

Jim

Moole

and what about this ones?

will they fit?

3racing alum damper set for m03

@ rcmart

thanks

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Yup, they're good. I've got a set. They seem to be pretty well put together. The adjuster rings are kind of hard to turn, but if you remove the teeny o-ring they put inside them, it's easier to deal with.

Jim

SUNA

iTrader: (47)

What is the best way to clean and re-lube the silver can motors?

hairy

iTrader: (1)

I spray mine out real good with motor spray and then blow it dry with an air hose.

Moole

thanks monkeyracing

edwintklee

iTrader: (23)

tonys,

its this done to make sure that the giff cups do not move when its turning?

cos if uj ,the long end position its fixed, no movement to the long bar, the only piece that its able to move its diff cups,

if use dogbone, the bone its not fixed to any position, its best to use the foam to add tention between the diff cups and the dogbone position, so the dogbone and diff cups will be in a fixed position...and will not moved when its turning....

please correct me if i am wrong.....

RMF-888

iTrader: (5)

has anyone knows the part number of the hpi xpattern tires?

tnx

edwintklee

iTrader: (23)

hpi 26mm = 4790, the small 1 i forgot....

stocker

iTrader: (2)

for mini? 4565.

Moole

hello everybody

will these fit on my mini??


LN-0001YW @ rcmart


tia

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

You're partly right...

The whole point of this is to keep the outdrive (the bit that sticks out of the chassis from the diff) firmly stuck IN place. And whether you use dogbones or unis the intent is till the same. Keep that outdrive in place.

Foam degrades and loses it springiness, rubber o rings perish.

So if you want to take it to the final degree, yes maybe if you're using dogbones you might want to put an or ring in the outdrive and one out in the hub as well. BUT...often this will be too tight and bind the whole system up.

I don't use dogbones anyway though...

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

The first chrome 'race chassis' has been built, and is probably racing as I type this..



Check it out here

Granpa

There are two good methods. One is to use a light comm drop and run the motor at low voltage for a couple of minutes then spray with motor spray. This method is courtesy of Doc Mertes.

The second is easier and is for guys who don't have a motor tester or motor run feature on their charger. Use liquid metal polish like Brasso and apply it directly to the comm. I use a oil bottle with a needle type tip. Leave the pinion on or put one one and spin the motor over or roll it back and forth on a towel on your pit table. You can clean out the polish with water or motor spray. If you use water, air dry the motor.

If you clean the motor every couple of runs, Doc's method gives you a beautiful shiny comm. If you're lazy like me and only clean the motor at the end of the day, the brasso is much quicker.

stocker

iTrader: (2)

Got a question for those using the M03R front uprights. In what situations would you use one of the 3 holes over the other?