295LikesTamiya mini cooper
02-27-2009 | 06:05 PM
#8433
Yup, they're good. I've got a set. They seem to be pretty well put together. The adjuster rings are kind of hard to turn, but if you remove the teeny o-ring they put inside them, it's easier to deal with.
Jim
Jim
02-28-2009 | 03:53 AM
#8437
tonys,
its this done to make sure that the giff cups do not move when its turning?
cos if uj ,the long end position its fixed, no movement to the long bar, the only piece that its able to move its diff cups,
if use dogbone, the bone its not fixed to any position, its best to use the foam to add tention between the diff cups and the dogbone position, so the dogbone and diff cups will be in a fixed position...and will not moved when its turning....
please correct me if i am wrong.....
its this done to make sure that the giff cups do not move when its turning?
cos if uj ,the long end position its fixed, no movement to the long bar, the only piece that its able to move its diff cups,
if use dogbone, the bone its not fixed to any position, its best to use the foam to add tention between the diff cups and the dogbone position, so the dogbone and diff cups will be in a fixed position...and will not moved when its turning....
please correct me if i am wrong.....
, the small 1 i forgot....
02-28-2009 | 11:26 AM
#8442
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,549
From: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
tonys,
its this done to make sure that the giff cups do not move when its turning?
cos if uj ,the long end position its fixed, no movement to the long bar, the only piece that its able to move its diff cups,
if use dogbone, the bone its not fixed to any position, its best to use the foam to add tention between the diff cups and the dogbone position, so the dogbone and diff cups will be in a fixed position...and will not moved when its turning....
please correct me if i am wrong.....
its this done to make sure that the giff cups do not move when its turning?
cos if uj ,the long end position its fixed, no movement to the long bar, the only piece that its able to move its diff cups,
if use dogbone, the bone its not fixed to any position, its best to use the foam to add tention between the diff cups and the dogbone position, so the dogbone and diff cups will be in a fixed position...and will not moved when its turning....
please correct me if i am wrong.....
The whole point of this is to keep the outdrive (the bit that sticks out of the chassis from the diff) firmly stuck IN place. And whether you use dogbones or unis the intent is till the same. Keep that outdrive in place.
Foam degrades and loses it springiness, rubber o rings perish.
So if you want to take it to the final degree, yes maybe if you're using dogbones you might want to put an or ring in the outdrive and one out in the hub as well. BUT...often this will be too tight and bind the whole system up.
I don't use dogbones anyway though...
03-01-2009 | 12:35 AM
#8444
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
There are two good methods. One is to use a light comm drop and run the motor at low voltage for a couple of minutes then spray with motor spray. This method is courtesy of Doc Mertes.
The second is easier and is for guys who don't have a motor tester or motor run feature on their charger. Use liquid metal polish like Brasso and apply it directly to the comm. I use a oil bottle with a needle type tip. Leave the pinion on or put one one and spin the motor over or roll it back and forth on a towel on your pit table. You can clean out the polish with water or motor spray. If you use water, air dry the motor.
If you clean the motor every couple of runs, Doc's method gives you a beautiful shiny comm. If you're lazy like me and only clean the motor at the end of the day, the brasso is much quicker.
The second is easier and is for guys who don't have a motor tester or motor run feature on their charger. Use liquid metal polish like Brasso and apply it directly to the comm. I use a oil bottle with a needle type tip. Leave the pinion on or put one one and spin the motor over or roll it back and forth on a towel on your pit table. You can clean out the polish with water or motor spray. If you use water, air dry the motor.
If you clean the motor every couple of runs, Doc's method gives you a beautiful shiny comm. If you're lazy like me and only clean the motor at the end of the day, the brasso is much quicker.