Xtant3150c

iTrader: (10)

I ran a locked stock diff in my M03M at our last race. It worked o.k. but it was a smallish track so my tires really suffered! On a bigger flowing track it might work better.

The other bad thing about running it is that it is not TCS legal I believe? We loosely follow TCS rules so for us it was o.k. to run.

To adjust the ball diff you still need to take the car apart to adjust it. I think for the most part you would just build it and have it set how you want it (pretty much as tight as possible) and install it so you won't have to worry about adjusting it later?

ManicRC

iTrader: (135)

Huh? After Socal and Hotbox closing, I just bought a TA05R hoping I could run at the last track near me (Mission Viejo). When is Tamiya closing the track? Anyone want to buy a brand new, never run TA05R with a C5R body?

More importantly, how are manufacturers going to sell cars if there is nowhere to drive them? With all the manufacturers in OC, I can't believe they haven't gotten together and opened a facility. What am I missing here?

Am I going to have to take up golf instead?

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

Lucy. my opinions (well as stated on our site anyway) are based on the rules we run here in Australia.

Tamiya recommend using AW grease (in the M03R instructions) and while it works, it does leak out when it heats up so thats why we're not keen on it.

As for diff locking, well it doesnt fit within our rules (or TCS) so it's out. We'd much prefer that everyone just runs normal ball or gear diffs. Level playing field (sorta) then. And isn't that the essence of Mini anyway? In most places diff locking isn't legal - simple as that.

I've had the same ball diff in my car for over 12 months. Adjusted it once (tight) and haven't touched it since...

As for the transmissions, don't worry too much about it. Stating a spin time isnt relevant. There are so many factors involved...

Remember, its just Mini, its supposed to be fun. Sometimes people get too caught up in things and forget that.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

could this be aimed at a local Omaha Mini fanatic?

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

As they say..."If the foo shits..." or something like that

chairman77

Lucy (heh heh heh)- If you want them, I have a two white 5-spoke HPI wheels and 2 HPI belted radial tires. You can run your mini with mismatching front and rear wheels like a drift car!

tbeardmore

iTrader: (3)

I believe everything I read on the internet.... don't you???

lucybluemoon

iTrader: (1)

problem:

maiden run of m03r. mostly fine, but i find that on full turns at near full throttle, the front wheels stutter and make audible shaking noises. upon inspection i find no rubbing or binding that i can see. i take the wheels off and run at full throttle with turns and it seems completely smooth with no stuttering whatsoever. i think even having one wheel off (no difference which one) removes the shaking. what could this be??

rccardr

iTrader: (8)

If you're running dogbones instead of universals, experiment a little with the thickness of the o-ring in the drive cup. I've found that there's a slight variation from part to part and it's sometimes necessary to thin out or thicken it- actually a small piece of firm foam or the little red foam thingie that goes on the top a TRF shock works well.

NT

iTrader: (21)

Fuel tubing does the trick on mine - and if you lose it, there is more of it in the pitbox to replace it with. I start it long, and just keep trimming til its right. Like rccardr said - they all end up different lengths

defMondo

You need to be careful when packing the outdrives with orings/foam bits etc because it very easy to cause the suspension to bind up if you go to far.

When you put the packing (orings/foam/fuel tubing) remove the shocks and make sure the suspension can move freely through it's full travel without feeling it bind up or stiffen at any point.

Also move the suspension up and down while the steering is at full lock in either direction.

While the wheels are at full lock try spinning them by hand see if you can feel it bind at all.

Might be a case of trying to set the car up to turn as hard as needed without having to ever go to full lock.

tp

rcarmchl

iTrader: (15)

hey tony -

I took your sites advice on setup and managed to go from pipe banger to 2nd in the A main. Thanks for the help. I ran the basic setup with the 2 degree rears and still need a just a little more grip and I think I will be set...any suggestions???

I am running the M03M - everything else is set up per your site.....

Granpa

Saw the ABC Genetic mini on the rc-mini web site and could not resist. Can't race it here, but It looks like fun runner. My Orion li-pos won't fit w/out doing some mods. Anyone have one and tried shoehorning a lipo in it. It looks like you'll have to space the top deck up a bit. Sort of new to mini's so something that may be obvious to the veterans is a complete mystery to me. I've had some great advice on some of my other questions, so HELP

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

Our setup is really just a base setup, whch as you've seen in most instances works pretty well. Its hard for us to go much further because from here on in individual tracks and surfaces start to play a large part in the final setup.
Basically all we play with from our base setup is tires..we leave the rest as it is.

An Orion Carbon lipo goes in without much trouble... If you've got the big square ones though you may struggle. I doubt you'll find someone thats done it, you're probably in uncharted waters with this one!

rcarmchl

iTrader: (15)

Well thanks for the intial help. One other question though....on a FWD Mini what is the general effect of softening the rear suspension?