no problem,
-i am placing an order for the plastic ones as I need them by end of the week.

Hey all,

I'm still reading much of this post but I thought I'd post. First time (Tamiya M05) "Mini" owner - I have the standard Mini Cooper kit #58438 (which I believe is the V1 chassis given no drop adjustment and doesn't accept square lipo's. Haven't run it just yet (waiting on bearings, servo, shocks, steering parts, & motor), so I consider it mocked up (can't post pic's, but I have pictures in my album on here for those that want to see it). I'm pretty happy with how it went together, and ecstatic with how the body turned out (first time I ever touched an air brush, painted a clear body, etc.).

I've heard of people talking about using different suspension holes for the rear upper control arm (or camber link as it seems most people call it), but the rear of my chassis as well as the knuckles... err, uprights (I think it'll take a while for me to adjust to the terminology used here) don't have any alternate control arm.... camber link positions. This normal?

I do however have two positions on the chassis in the front, and it seems the upper position on the chassis is the normally used position for the upper control arm... Uhh, camber link. That is how I have mine set up.

But I am having problems with bump steer. I've played with the arm length and been playing with shims, and I just can't dial out the bump steer to a satisfactory level - it's either way too much or way too much. Is it possible I assembled something wrong, or have I overlooked something?

M05 Pro V.2 after installing Lightweight Aluminum Battery Holder and shorty lipo offset to the right to counterbalance the motor. Only secured with one piece of tape but still surprisingly secure:

16.2 Fast lap of the day @Fredtech. Unheard of with my skillset.

Every Rog has his day...

I've been working on a fan mount. Can't quite get anything to fit with the motor wires sticking up out of the can. Made one with 55mm worth of spacers attached where the heat sink bars go and the fan vertically mounted right off the end cap. Looks neat, but it's a lot of material flapping around. Thinking about one as pictured above, but the damned wires get in the way. I'll figure something out eventually.

If you want to offset your motor weight flip your battery around. The side with the plugs is the light side

That won't work for shorty packs as the plugs won't fit in the chassis.

i know this has been asked (many times before), but in order to update my M05Pro to the V2, all i really need is the A-parts and the motor mount, correct?

I have the other parts that the V2 comes with - i just want the ability to run shorty lipos

please don't beat me too much having a somewhat bad day at work

to help with the bump steer, you need some taller ballstuds that mount on the steering knuckles. you want to try and make the steering links as horizontal as possible - that will remove most of the bump steer. most likely your steering links are higher on the inside than the outside - so they kind of go like this / \ (bad angle, but hopefully it gets the point across).

get a longer ball stud and like a 3mm or 4mm spacers to raise the outer steering end so its pretty much horizontal. I was told to do this on my M03 to remove the bump steer, so when i build my M05, i just did it as part of the build

I need some tips to get rid of wheel spine.... I have an excellent dialed car (M05 v.2) but I am not able to figure out how to fix this issue.... any help will be appreciated... thanks

Lower the punch or torque in the ESC.

Also try a different motor. I could not get my V2 to run very well with torquey motors.

Can't wait to see ...I've come back to my motor mount and am still fussing w/ it (again).

Yup. Unless you also want the droop adjustment, as well. I've just gone back to my habit of building shocks to a specific length. Found the droop adjusters unreliable, especially in the hardened lower arms.