k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

thanks guess its time to place an order

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

Speaking of droop adjustment, I just installed some big bore shocks on my M03 last night. I added the single limiting O ring as per instructions and after bleeding and installing the shocks, I find I'm stuck at 4.5mm ride height with zero droop on the rear. I guess the instructions assume 60D tires, I'm using smaller ones. Hopefully I can get enough travel back by unscrewing the ball end, I really don't want to have to rebuild them again...

I also noticed the preload adjusters are VERY loose on these shocks. I scored 4 lines on the threads with a box cutter (tip I read on here the other day) to tighten them up, and they're still too loose. Might need blue threadlock after all.

While I was at it, I installed some universal axles (53597). Had to remove the black O ring from the diff outdrive (stock gear diff) as it was causing massive binding with the universals. There's quite a bit of play now, might need to cut up the urethane bushings that came with the shocks to pad it out.

rzein

I am using the Reedy 21.5 as for TCS rules.. I do not have a lot of options with this...

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

You're going to get wheelspin with the stock gears in the FWD M-chassis with any brushless motor. You'll need to learn to use the throttle correctly, rather than just flooring it.

ErikO

iTrader: (2)

The wheelspin is also a result of the design of the chassis, with so much weight being removed from the front wheels under acceleration. It's just a mini thing that you need to adjust your driving style around.

rzein

I will try to adjust my driving.... and my some Radio and ESC setting... thanks

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

on your throttle curve (on the radio), go negative - it'll soften the feel a little bit when you pull the throttle

or if your speedo has 'punch' control, lower it some

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

...sorry if i missed it, are you running the stock diff' in front? If so, i'd recommend changing to the Tamiya 53070 Manta Ray Ball Diff Set. Its TCS legal -as it is a Tamiya branded part. It really tightened up the front wheels for me and stopped a lot of that wheelspin. If you do get this diff' be sure to really tighten the heck out of it when putting it together.

ErikO

iTrader: (2)

Some Tamiya AW grease in the diff gears also helps tighten it up a bit. Nothing like a ball diff but better than running it dry.

AngryRog

iTrader: (20)

A firm diff promotes better acceleration out of a corner. Unless your track has better than average traction, this will only exacerbate your wheel spin problem.

Try using the TC aluminum shock adjusters with o-ring on your 54000 shocks. Cured the issue for me...

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

not disagreeing, but not sure i follow.
So a tighter diff will have increased wheel spin when traction is great on exit corner. Wouldn't a tighter diff have less wheel spin then a looser diff in this situation-assuming traction is the same for both? Please explain, ..unless I am understanding you incorrectly.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

another crazy question - not sure if i saw this, or dreamed is

did tamiya release a part that is essentially pegs that replace the diff balls in their diffs? kinda like the ones traxxas makes for their 'slipper diff'??

I thought i saw that release someplace

daktulos

iTrader: (2)

You are not dreaming
Tamiya part 54424 3mm bushings for ball differential
I use them on the M05 ball diff (54194) with the M05RA hardened cup set (54238)
This is really hard on the drivetrain but the bushings help.

I am not a fan of a locked differential but on certain circonstance it help to get out fast of a corner. I was using this with a 17.5 and was more driving point and shot...

My two cents...
Alexandre

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

thank you thank you!!!

AngryRog

iTrader: (20)

The opposite, tighter diff will have increase forward bite when track conditions are good. Poor conditions = less pull with a tighter diff due to wheel spin.