...well i'll disagree. I restore vintage game systems and computers. I have seen plenty of corrosion on all kinds of contacts. But this is usually for 20year old + equipment. In any case, sanding metal contacts is just something I personally stay away from.

as for the loctite, yeah there are plastic thread solutions ...I think Monkeyracing suggested a few, -id use that instead of loctite ..even if you don't think it will get on your chassis it sometimes can find a way.

My technique works for me on my deans connectors. I don't like throwing away stuff that needs a little sanding to work properly. I am not made out of money; I just want to make my toys work without glitches and without having to shell out a fortune because the tiny layers of gold on my connectors were scratched or because the invisible corrosion/oxydation has some of you scared ....

The ideal solution to a worn out Dean's connector, is a brand new Deans connector. For $2.99, it's not asking for much.

With that said, I have yet to "wear out" a deans connector to a point where oxidized copper is an issue.

My Ntc3 deans had connection issues on the third or fourth race meet... I doubt that they were worn by then... Cheers....

I wouldn't go so far as to say scared. Concerned? Yes. Trepidatious? Maybe. Gassy? Always. But never scared.

I would seriously measure the resistance as MR mentioned and compare it with a new one. No value sanding it if there is no measureable difference.


I should be getting my big bores and some other misc parts later today. Woot! Going to install them on my M03 and M05.
Going to put the old Super Mini's on the near bone-stock M05 I lend my son.

I have a M05 vII pro with all the bells and whistles, can anyone tell me the handling characteristic of the short, medium and long base for asphalt.

My experience,

Short wheelbase = tighter handling, better for smaller/tighter tracks
Long wheelbase = more stable handling, better for longer/faster tracks.
Medium wheelbase = a nice balance of the two.

I personally love the long wheelbase, I like how stable the car is and well it is planted. Our track tends to be a medium track ...it isn't too fast/isn't too tight. Many run the medium wheelbase on our track ...but I prefer the long for the more stable handling.

For bashing in a parking lot none really make a huge difference in my opinion. and i'd go w/ the body you want ...let the body dictate what wheelbase to run.

I am running it on a nice size parking lot track and will also be running it at jackson rc. i have the long base on the car now and the only problem i am having is keeping the back of the car planted in the corners. 400 oil with 3 holes and red front and yellow rear springs. steering on the car is perfect. car comes loose and spins out.

Jackson is a nice long flowing track, and I've seen alot of minis lose rear traction there on wide turns(on video)... My opinion is that the rear suspension is too soft+ the rear tires do not have enough sidewall stiffness to handle some of the turns... I know it sounds like I am taking traction away from the rear, but that's how I ran my m03 at FBF a while back to solve that rear spinning out issue... Blue spring in the rear always, and slightly softer front springs(yellow) or the same blue. Red front springs generate too much traction... Also CA your rear tire sidewalls halfway down....
Another more complicated issue is the shimming of all four hubs on your car: your wheels can't be wobbly at all, and your bearings can't be catchy either, or else you will spin out easily.....

Gearhead,

-if your not try running the S-grips in rear.
I found that running the S-grips (w/ the tread) gave me a bit more traction. (I run slicks up front).

I don't have my setup in front of me, ...yet can PM it to you if you'd like. Your free to try it out. My car runs great and I am able to get in the top 2nd or 3rd spot consistently in the A-mains w/ it.

thanks yes send it. but aren't the slicks a lower profile tire. I am using the s-grips and need the taller tire for top end.

yes, the s-grips may be a tad taller and will give a bit more top end speed (when meaured you're talking about 3mm difference) ...BUT i've found that the s-grips in front give too much traction (in front), ...yet slicks all around and the rear slides.

My fav' setup is slicks up front s-grips in rear. Most guys who run s-grips up front end up running really worn down s-grips to the point where they are almost slicks anyway.

This is just what works for me.
if you can get out for some practice runs you can try it out.

yeah, snap a photo of my setup sheet and send (give me a day or two).

Heres my car

Is the body's rooftop low like the Honda crx ??? Rear track width seems very small too...
I found out that my m03 ran better with a wide rear (165mm to 170mm)....
I run S grips in front, and 60d slicks in the rear: No way to lose the rear ever, but my front rideheight is always a little higher than the rear...