Tamiya mini cooper
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I am and love it, ...i like the weight savings ...allows me to use the weight elsewhere. Also the car seems more balanced to me. Power is the same/not noticeable difference.
Interesting ...our 2nd top driver runs an M03 ...everyone else including myself is M05V2. Curious, is the gearing on the M03 the same/comparable as the M05V2 (and M05)?? Or is the speed strictly due to setup?
Interesting ...our 2nd top driver runs an M03 ...everyone else including myself is M05V2. Curious, is the gearing on the M03 the same/comparable as the M05V2 (and M05)?? Or is the speed strictly due to setup?
Or were you asking if they allow cheater gears?
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I recall Bob (Granpa) saying something about removing one or two of the washers from the diff to lock it down a bit. Any of you TCS guys remember which it was?
My solution, ultimately, was to install 3mm delrin bushings in place of the balls. Turns it into an adjustable slipper spool.
EDIT: Found one of Bob's posts, with two solutions!
My solution, ultimately, was to install 3mm delrin bushings in place of the balls. Turns it into an adjustable slipper spool.
EDIT: Found one of Bob's posts, with two solutions!
You remove one of the smaller cone or Belleville washers and use all 3 of the larger ones. Unless you are wanting to make your diff very tight, this isn't the best way to do it. This is a technique that we used many years ago, but abandoned cause it seems to load up the thrust washer unduly and causes premature failure. A diff built this way is never "smooth" and needs frequent rebuilds. If I remember correctly, leaving out one of the large washers gives you a looser diff.
What might be a better way is to build per the instructions, but use a shim or shims on the diff nut or screw. It takes the same size shim as you use on the axles. The advantage here is that you can make the adjustments in 0.1mm increments so that you can have the diff action you want. I generally use between 0.2-0.5mm in shims, but I do't run them ultra tight.
What might be a better way is to build per the instructions, but use a shim or shims on the diff nut or screw. It takes the same size shim as you use on the axles. The advantage here is that you can make the adjustments in 0.1mm increments so that you can have the diff action you want. I generally use between 0.2-0.5mm in shims, but I do't run them ultra tight.
Last edited by monkeyracing; 06-02-2016 at 08:39 PM.
Tech Regular
I miss Granpa. He always had something really useful to say...even as abrasive as he could be sometimes. Wish I could've met him. May he rest in peace! I still have the screen shots of what he posted. I learned so much from him.
As for the 15T brushed motor and new esc....it's AMAZING! It's just enough speed and for 60 bucks tax in. ..very happy with the upgrade.
As for the 15T brushed motor and new esc....it's AMAZING! It's just enough speed and for 60 bucks tax in. ..very happy with the upgrade.
Thanks for the quotes Monkey,I'll see if I have any shims to try.
I will go oil filled at some point. At least this diff is easy to drive, I can concentrate on line choice and race craft.
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Abrasive? Maybe. The internet is a terrible place to interpret intention, unless it's really, really clearly spelled out. We're all amateur authors here. Happy to have gotten to know the guy a little.
Although previously announced, no sign of the 42300 Double Cardan Joint Shaft – M-Chassis on the July release list from Tamiya.
My solution, ultimately, was to install 3mm delrin bushings in place of the balls. Turns it into an adjustable slipper spool.
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Tech Champion
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I wasn't aware the part number had been announced. Thanks for the heads up.
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It's not unlike the slipper that Traxxas used in their SRT stadium race truck back in the day. I might have to try this!
Ha! Based on what I've read from him, it does seem to fit.
I would have expressed my condolences back in February, but I suppose better late than never. RIP Mr. Granpa, I've learned a lot from reading his posts. It's always sad to hear about the loss of someone in the online RC community, but I trust he's kicking ass on the RC track up above!
I would have expressed my condolences back in February, but I suppose better late than never. RIP Mr. Granpa, I've learned a lot from reading his posts. It's always sad to hear about the loss of someone in the online RC community, but I trust he's kicking ass on the RC track up above!
With stock internals and a 20t pinion the 03, 05 and 06 all have a 5.8fdr. The internals are all the same. 04 internals are the same, but the motor mount holes are offset differently, so it uses odd numbered pinions, like a 21t.
Or were you asking if they allow cheater gears?
Or were you asking if they allow cheater gears?
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I am sorry, I didn't realize that Granpa passed. I somehow missed that, but I think I took a break from this site for a month or so in Feb-March as I was super swamped w/ work and didn't have time for RC fun. I had wondered where he went, as I hadn't heard from him on this site. Oh, man, what a shame. Granpa and I had many private discussions about my car's setup, he was a wealth of knowledge and really helped me quite a bit. I was thinking what a waste to have all that knowledge disappear, yet I guess he has passed it all on to us and to those he knew at the track. I'll miss you Granpa.
Tech Regular
Ya Granpa definitely didn't care how he made you feel emotionally....but he was as helpful as could be. I miss him I know that but I'm sure everyone who talked to him appreciated his VAST KNOWLEDGE of things regarding these minis. I remember him and sakadachi getting into it a few times but from what I could interpret through text I liked him.
Rip granpa.... One thing about this hobby is the long time spent sitting down to build/fix Rc cars can become a physical burden, and taking up running/basketball or other constant motion sports is required to stay in shape/fight off diseases/live to 100years old etc.... Cheers....