288LikesTamiya mini cooper
08-27-2015, 09:23 AM
I tried a friends Suzuki Swift on my car a week or so before nats.. Swift is very stable, albeit a bit topheavy. I was able to get comfortable with it and drive 'fast'.
but i'm just so used to the CRX.. and the CRX looks so damn cool.... and i used to own a CRX... and i miss my CRX...
sooo.... i ran the CRX.
the Fiat Abarth would of possibly been run at Nats had i been able to find one
Thats pretty much how i pick a body to run.. if it looks cool slammed to the ground, i will run it.. almost regardless to how it handles. true story
but i'm just so used to the CRX.. and the CRX looks so damn cool.... and i used to own a CRX... and i miss my CRX...
sooo.... i ran the CRX.
the Fiat Abarth would of possibly been run at Nats had i been able to find one
Thats pretty much how i pick a body to run.. if it looks cool slammed to the ground, i will run it.. almost regardless to how it handles. true story
08-27-2015, 09:52 AM
My truck body was free from a club promotion, I've gorilla taped it to death for 5 years from all the carnage i've been in, the flag is making a point that I don't take RC racing serious and I couldn't tell the difference whether I put on a civic or swift body. I'm just not that good to notice a difference.
Ivan
08-27-2015, 09:59 AM
08-27-2015, 10:16 AM
very cool mini-cooper stance indeed..i love this shot.. full lean..
08-27-2015, 10:19 AM
Actually the bodies make a HUGE difference, at slow and fast speeds.
I race using TCS rules, so only have experience w/ the Tamiya bodies. But here is what I found. There are three different body sizes to fit short, medium, and long wheelbase. You'll want to select a chassis length that best suits your track (usually short wheelbase or medium for a slower/tight turn track and medium to long wheelbase for a faster/less tight turns track). Once you determine the body size there are differences in body height and body weight. For example, the "Tamiya Mini" bodies tend to be a bit more top heavy whereas the "Tamiya Honda S800 body" is not top heavy. I a guessing that like most you'll want a lower center of gravity, -so consider that when selecting a body. Also, there is the issue of being able to lower your body over the wheels to further lower the center of gravity. Bodies like the Tamiya Mini body have wheel arches that don't allow you to lower the body very much (otherwise the tires will rub the wheel arches). However a body like the Tamiya JCW mini cooper will allow you to lower the body pretty much to the ground over the wheels. This is advantageous for a low center of gravity. Also if your running a higher turn motor (slower motor) then the weight of the body is of huge importance (or it should be to you). Some bodies weight more than others. For example I found that the Tamiya Mini body weighs less than the Tamiya JCW body (as the JCW has metal spacers and hardware for the rear wing). --this adds weight. When your running a higher turn motor weight really comes in to play ...save weight and your car will go faster. In my opinion aerodynamics do make a difference even at lower speeds.
My current setup is a long wheelbase with the Tamiya JCW body, yet i've tried most all of the Tamiya bodies. My favorite for short wheelbase was the Honda S800 (it allowed me to slam the body to the ground over the tires for a low center of gravity). I also run my bodies w/o any of the Tamiya plastic accessories (side view mirrors, headlight rings, etc) to save weight (and this is TCS legal).
hope that helps.
I race using TCS rules, so only have experience w/ the Tamiya bodies. But here is what I found. There are three different body sizes to fit short, medium, and long wheelbase. You'll want to select a chassis length that best suits your track (usually short wheelbase or medium for a slower/tight turn track and medium to long wheelbase for a faster/less tight turns track). Once you determine the body size there are differences in body height and body weight. For example, the "Tamiya Mini" bodies tend to be a bit more top heavy whereas the "Tamiya Honda S800 body" is not top heavy. I a guessing that like most you'll want a lower center of gravity, -so consider that when selecting a body. Also, there is the issue of being able to lower your body over the wheels to further lower the center of gravity. Bodies like the Tamiya Mini body have wheel arches that don't allow you to lower the body very much (otherwise the tires will rub the wheel arches). However a body like the Tamiya JCW mini cooper will allow you to lower the body pretty much to the ground over the wheels. This is advantageous for a low center of gravity. Also if your running a higher turn motor (slower motor) then the weight of the body is of huge importance (or it should be to you). Some bodies weight more than others. For example I found that the Tamiya Mini body weighs less than the Tamiya JCW body (as the JCW has metal spacers and hardware for the rear wing). --this adds weight. When your running a higher turn motor weight really comes in to play ...save weight and your car will go faster. In my opinion aerodynamics do make a difference even at lower speeds.
My current setup is a long wheelbase with the Tamiya JCW body, yet i've tried most all of the Tamiya bodies. My favorite for short wheelbase was the Honda S800 (it allowed me to slam the body to the ground over the tires for a low center of gravity). I also run my bodies w/o any of the Tamiya plastic accessories (side view mirrors, headlight rings, etc) to save weight (and this is TCS legal).
hope that helps.
I have no doubt that aerodynamics plays a role. However, I dont believe it is as noticeable as weight transffer. But i believe running a proper gear diff with heavy oil, CA on the outer edge of the tire, a spec brushless esc combo, and the option for non-tamiya bodies makes this comparison into apples and oranges though.
Question for the TCS guys:, can the m05 be run at these events with the "servo handlebars" removed?
08-27-2015, 10:42 AM
The CRX is also a nice body, has low CG and allows you to tuck the wheels under it.
servo handlebars? --sorry ...do you mean the chassis handlebars -the two large top arches towards the back of the M05/M05VII ??
servo handlebars? --sorry ...do you mean the chassis handlebars -the two large top arches towards the back of the M05/M05VII ??
08-27-2015, 11:01 AM
I love the Gen1 CRX. Also my first car. I love how the front body panels were "un-rustable" (because because we're plastic). A pulley system clutch & all. I ran this body 2 years ago and loved it.
Yes, the big arches that brace the chassis and look really ugly. LoL
I may go down to the states to attend an American race or two. Mayb even a TCS. Just need to if out if I can get my mini up to spec.
Yes, the big arches that brace the chassis and look really ugly. LoL
I may go down to the states to attend an American race or two. Mayb even a TCS. Just need to if out if I can get my mini up to spec.
08-27-2015, 11:01 AM
very cool mini-cooper stance indeed..i love this shot.. full lean..
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...psnzs2r015.jpg
That CRX is hot!
I remember those when they (the real CRX) were new. I loved them.
08-27-2015, 11:09 AM
M05 'Roll Hoops' must be attached when using that car in TCS event. Locals have asked in the past and got denied.
08-27-2015, 11:32 AM
That clears things up.
Thanks Os!
Thanks Os!
08-27-2015, 12:00 PM
I've only ever noticed aerodynamics once. A few weeks ago, on an outdoor track with long straights and no motor limits, I ran back to back with and without the roof spoiler on my Blitz Jazz. It mad a huge difference. Doing the same testing, indoors on a shorter track, with a spec 2200kv motor, there was no difference.
Basically, in most situations, keep the weight and CG low. In a truly fast situation, that most of us never experience, worry about aero.
Basically, in most situations, keep the weight and CG low. In a truly fast situation, that most of us never experience, worry about aero.
Last edited by monkeyracing; 08-27-2015 at 12:19 PM.
08-27-2015, 12:15 PM
Yeah, the tallness of the Rover body does make the car roll quite a bit though, but that lowriding M05 I set up has virtually no body roll. Stiff stabilizer front and rear, front blue, rear yellow springs, high damp rate. I forget which piston F/R but #1000 oil. and it's using the standard 55 kit tires with the flimsy foam inserts.
No bounce, just strickly smooth/flat driving and handles very well. On my surface the S-Grips sometimes grips too much on some chassis (this M05, CupRacer, M-Four, SabreFD Mini) so I use the standard m-chassis kit tires..
No bounce, just strickly smooth/flat driving and handles very well. On my surface the S-Grips sometimes grips too much on some chassis (this M05, CupRacer, M-Four, SabreFD Mini) so I use the standard m-chassis kit tires..
08-27-2015, 01:17 PM
Blitz c30(0.5mm) 47grams sitting four holes lower in the rear than my mini cooper(91gram) body.... That made a huge difference....
Now only if I could run my car legally at 1100grams.....lol.....Come on tamiya , lower the minimum weight to 1100grams....lol....
Now only if I could run my car legally at 1100grams.....lol.....Come on tamiya , lower the minimum weight to 1100grams....lol....
Last edited by bertrandsv87; 08-27-2015 at 01:49 PM.
08-27-2015, 02:43 PM
Apparently that was never the rule.. there was a bit of confusion and misunderstanding...
Myself included and a couple other individuals thought the rule was to be no glue at all... till a few weeks before the event.
anywhoooo, to make a long story short we decided not to make a fuss about it and just 'Carry on and Chive' so to speak.
i followed their lead and tried it. results speak for themselves.
Myself included and a couple other individuals thought the rule was to be no glue at all... till a few weeks before the event.
anywhoooo, to make a long story short we decided not to make a fuss about it and just 'Carry on and Chive' so to speak.
i followed their lead and tried it. results speak for themselves.
'Hold your line!' in Japanese is 'Anata no rain o hoji!'
08-27-2015, 03:40 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (16)
Check with the track you're going to run it on
Some (most) of the tracks we've been at that race Minis run Tamiya rules
with a spec tire. Mostly 60D's (radials)
The 3Racing parts are fine. Just check with someone from the track to make sure that you don't get DQ'ed before racing your first lap!
Keep us informed of your progress and Good Luck with it
and most importantly
Welcome to the Crazy World of Mini Racing!
Some (most) of the tracks we've been at that race Minis run Tamiya rules
with a spec tire. Mostly 60D's (radials)
The 3Racing parts are fine. Just check with someone from the track to make sure that you don't get DQ'ed before racing your first lap!
Keep us informed of your progress and Good Luck with it
and most importantly
Welcome to the Crazy World of Mini Racing!
http://www.timeflyshobbytown.com/Eve...ng-Series.aspx
I got around to taking a few pictures of the car. I scored this on ebay for $60. Came with a bunch of tires/wheels, springs, spare parts as well. While I was at the LHS today, I checked out an unmolested M05 for comparison, the previous owner cut this one up a bit and i was no sure what was missing. It appears just the battery trays are cut off, and the ESC/RX mounts are MIA. Overall, I think it was a good buy for the amount of parts/spares it came with.
As of now my plans are:
-Get a few bodies (Classic Mini, 2006 Mini and a CRX)
-Get some new electronics. I still have an older Futaba 3PM FM setup and Novak C2 brushed ESC/Motors i can use to get it going for now
-Convert to V2 parts mainly so I can run lipo.
-Slowly make TCS Legal with Tamiya parts