288LikesTamiya mini cooper
07-21-2015, 12:56 AM
07-21-2015, 03:25 AM
Thanks Guys!
07-21-2015, 05:17 AM
Tech Regular
So just ensure tight steering with the linkages and shim the axles out a little bit (lots of play from bearing sliding in and out) and eyeball the toe. Now my servo shakes back and forth once in a while...I was looking at it and it was doing the funky chicken and yesterday while i was racing on my little chalk outline track...it just didn't steer sometimes?? Is the servo on the fritz??
Last edited by M05 newbie; 07-21-2015 at 05:31 AM.
07-21-2015, 06:45 AM
So just ensure tight steering with the linkages and shim the axles out a little bit (lots of play from bearing sliding in and out) and eyeball the toe. Now my servo shakes back and forth once in a while...I was looking at it and it was doing the funky chicken and yesterday while i was racing on my little chalk outline track...it just didn't steer sometimes?? Is the servo on the fritz??
To take out the play you need to address the ballcup/balljoint slop, the bearing play, the axle play and so on. You can do it (I do), but as has been said, it's not necessary for everybody.
Once all the slop is out, a setup station can be very helpful, if only to tell you something is wrong with the car. For instance, you can find an unequal toe problem on the rear where it isn't adjustable and points to some underlying problem (chassis/hub carrier, etc).
07-21-2015, 07:31 AM
Tech Regular
That's probably because either your radio or the servo (or both) is crap (by design or use).
To take out the play you need to address the ballcup/balljoint slop, the bearing play, the axle play and so on. You can do it (I do), but as has been said, it's not necessary for everybody.
Once all the slop is out, a setup station can be very helpful, if only to tell you something is wrong with the car. For instance, you can find an unequal toe problem on the rear where it isn't adjustable and points to some underlying problem (chassis/hub carrier, etc).
To take out the play you need to address the ballcup/balljoint slop, the bearing play, the axle play and so on. You can do it (I do), but as has been said, it's not necessary for everybody.
Once all the slop is out, a setup station can be very helpful, if only to tell you something is wrong with the car. For instance, you can find an unequal toe problem on the rear where it isn't adjustable and points to some underlying problem (chassis/hub carrier, etc).
I have an extra servo so I'll swap it out and see tn if it's better. It is pretty old.
07-21-2015, 08:05 AM
ball cups
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/revie...ga/rodends.jpg
These connect to the ball part of the balljoint
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/revie...ga/rodends.jpg
These connect to the ball part of the balljoint
07-21-2015, 09:05 AM
Tech Adept
http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking...dProduct=78032. It's a rebrand of the Nanda NRX-12 they seem to be very good for the money.
07-21-2015, 09:51 AM
Tech Regular
ball cups
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/revie...ga/rodends.jpg
These connect to the ball part of the balljoint
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/revie...ga/rodends.jpg
These connect to the ball part of the balljoint
Now for the ball cups for the axle...should I tighten the play up in that with a bigger o ring or something??? Or is that supposed to have a little bit of play?
07-21-2015, 11:00 AM
For the tie rods right? I got the the 3 racing linkage kit that has those. Tightened a lot of the play up. Now I just have to get the 3 racing linkage kit with the wiper arms.
Now for the ball cups for the axle...should I tighten the play up in that with a bigger o ring or something??? Or is that supposed to have a little bit of play?
Now for the ball cups for the axle...should I tighten the play up in that with a bigger o ring or something??? Or is that supposed to have a little bit of play?
It usually is best not to mess with the air bearings and leave as installed. Just keep the air bearing holders in the various parts in good order and keep the various components don't loosen and allow air bearings that are too large or erratic in shape. The general rule is to not mess with air bearings until you have extensive experience with them. Manydon't even know of there existence
07-21-2015, 12:17 PM
A couple of guys at my local track have just got these
http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking...dProduct=78032. It's a rebrand of the Nanda NRX-12 they seem to be very good for the money.
http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking...dProduct=78032. It's a rebrand of the Nanda NRX-12 they seem to be very good for the money.
A) there's no parts availability
B) I've got issues with Hobbyking. They have had 2 of my speedos for repair for 5 weeks & can't get a status update from them. One of the esc's was brand new.
I'm not buying anything else from them, at least til this is sorted.
07-21-2015, 01:04 PM
07-21-2015, 01:32 PM
I love my M-Four. 
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...593-m-four.jpg
Check out my albums page for the batteries I use.
Also, if you can find an old CupRacer, the 210mm is quite nice.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...527-cr-fan.jpg
Both run the Tamiya Rover Mini bodies on mine, and considerably faster than the FWD's I have running my small track.
That's correct. The M-Four runs a 380 sized motor and smaller batteries, although I've seen people convert it to run 540 size and shorties.
But as you said, the Sabre4WD Mini is already running the 540 and similar to the M-Four's design, AND uses the standard 2S Lipo's.
This is why I bought the SabreFD Mini this time.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...593-m-four.jpg
Check out my albums page for the batteries I use.
Also, if you can find an old CupRacer, the 210mm is quite nice.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...527-cr-fan.jpg
Both run the Tamiya Rover Mini bodies on mine, and considerably faster than the FWD's I have running my small track.
That's correct. The M-Four runs a 380 sized motor and smaller batteries, although I've seen people convert it to run 540 size and shorties.
But as you said, the Sabre4WD Mini is already running the 540 and similar to the M-Four's design, AND uses the standard 2S Lipo's.
This is why I bought the SabreFD Mini this time.
07-21-2015, 01:46 PM
I really enjoy my M-Four. It's a great car. The only thing I needed were some Kyosho o-rings for the diff (oil leaked from axle cup side 
) and some Green Slime as well (leaked from the belt side ). That plus running AE diff oil 3K and 5K, no more leaks.
There's a M-Four thread if you want to check it out. I got most of my info there when starting out. You also need to get the 2820 sized 2S Lipo's too unless you can find short shorties to fit under the belt + servo relocation kit Tamiya has available.
EDIT: I bumped up the M-Four thread for you.
) and some Green Slime as well (leaked from the belt side ). That plus running AE diff oil 3K and 5K, no more leaks. There's a M-Four thread if you want to check it out. I got most of my info there when starting out. You also need to get the 2820 sized 2S Lipo's too unless you can find short shorties to fit under the belt + servo relocation kit Tamiya has available.
EDIT: I bumped up the M-Four thread for you.
Last edited by sakadachi; 07-21-2015 at 02:25 PM.
07-21-2015, 02:32 PM
Tech Regular
That's probably because either your radio or the servo (or both) is crap (by design or use).
To take out the play you need to address the ballcup/balljoint slop, the bearing play, the axle play and so on. You can do it (I do), but as has been said, it's not necessary for everybody.
Once all the slop is out, a setup station can be very helpful, if only to tell you something is wrong with the car. For instance, you can find an unequal toe problem on the rear where it isn't adjustable and points to some underlying problem (chassis/hub carrier, etc).
To take out the play you need to address the ballcup/balljoint slop, the bearing play, the axle play and so on. You can do it (I do), but as has been said, it's not necessary for everybody.
Once all the slop is out, a setup station can be very helpful, if only to tell you something is wrong with the car. For instance, you can find an unequal toe problem on the rear where it isn't adjustable and points to some underlying problem (chassis/hub carrier, etc).
I have a lot of play through the entire steering setup when compared with my touring cars. I don't want to get rid of all of it, but surely reducing it would be helpful.
07-21-2015, 03:08 PM
Tech Regular
Yes also for niznai the axle play....would o rings help?