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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 04-16-2015, 10:58 AM
  #23416  
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Originally Posted by Granpa
The clear o-rings or the stock ones seem to be the best all around rings for the TRF shocks. They're the ones that came with the shocks. While the blue option ones, while freer in operation, soon start to leak. Whether the free operation is enough to warrant the frequent rebuilds, is a decision for you. I don't notice enough of an advantage to go thru the constant rebuilding of shocks.

Sometimes we all may do things w/out clearly thinking things thru. Believe me, I'm as guilty of this as anyone. Your solution of adding a spacer to over compress the X ring to improve it's seal negates the one advantage it had over the stock o-ring. By compressing it more, it makes the hole smaller and will improve the seal, but it will also cause it to fit tighter around the piston rod or shock shaft. This, of course, will make the shock less free, which is why we used the x-ring in the first place. Also those blue things wear much faster so will leak anyway. They were never intended for general use, but were intended for the serious racer who was willing to put up with rebuilding shocks every few race weekends.

Another reason shocks need frequent rebuilds is if they were built with a high rebound rate. Zero rebound shocks seem to require less attention. This is just an observation of mine from experience and I have no technical data to back this up.

Again, as always, this is posted merely for your consideration. I post this, every so often, to avoid confrontation.
Hi Grandpa! Yes, I've actually been playing with different o-rings including the generic red, clear, and blue, but the 50 durometer x-rings have shown zero leakage just as long as there is no play inside the o-ring retainer. (I use the ordinary Tamiya damper oil).

Even the TRF ones that my M-Four came with (stock is clear o-rings + the white spacers) two have started leaking already after one week of hard driving. I replaced the leaking ones with the x-rings and no leak. The x-ring needs about 0.1mm of compression from my experiments to make them work flawlessly. The V2 shocks have the clear housing so it made my experiment very easy to do... I can see inside!

I highly recommend the x-rings over any o-ring Tamiya sells... even more so than the bandaid fix of using GreenSlime + clear o-rings. That only works for a few weeks at best from my experiments.
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Old 04-16-2015, 11:01 AM
  #23417  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Im considering having a similar disclaimer tattooed on my forehead. It will also cover sudden bouts of taunting directed at others and anything involving fire, chemicals and/or electricity.
You've been very helpful too, monkeyracing! Keep it coming.


But please do not under estimate me. I know quite a lot about RC.. I am just not caught up yet from my 15yr hiatus.
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Old 04-16-2015, 11:05 AM
  #23418  
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Shucks, I ordered new tires, wheels, and inserts this morning, but forgot to order the ball diff!

I need to see if I can find some on Amazon with free shipping.
Gosh darn it..
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Old 04-16-2015, 03:57 PM
  #23419  
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Originally Posted by sakadachi
Hi Grandpa! Yes, I've actually been playing with different o-rings including the generic red, clear, and blue, but the 50 durometer x-rings have shown zero leakage just as long as there is no play inside the o-ring retainer. (I use the ordinary Tamiya damper oil).

Even the TRF ones that my M-Four came with (stock is clear o-rings + the white spacers) two have started leaking already after one week of hard driving. I replaced the leaking ones with the x-rings and no leak. The x-ring needs about 0.1mm of compression from my experiments to make them work flawlessly. The V2 shocks have the clear housing so it made my experiment very easy to do... I can see inside!

I highly recommend the x-rings over any o-ring Tamiya sells... even more so than the bandaid fix of using GreenSlime + clear o-rings. That only works for a few weeks at best from my experiments.
As in all things, our opinions are shaped from our own experience. In this case, our experiences differ. I've never had the clear ones leak and as you say, you quite often do. Does that make you correct and me wrong?????? Probably not, but then there may be other factors at play. Again, for your consideration. If one person builds a shock and it soon leaks and another one builds the same shock and it doesn't------???????

But as you said, you know a lot about R/C. My own opinion of my R/C knowledge and experience isn't that elevated. That's why the occasional disclaimer that all my posts are for the readers consideration. It seems as though the more I know, the less I know and the less dogmatic I become.
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Old 04-16-2015, 05:47 PM
  #23420  
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Originally Posted by Granpa
As in all things, our opinions are shaped from our own experience. In this case, our experiences differ. I've never had the clear ones leak and as you say, you quite often do. Does that make you correct and me wrong?????? Probably not, but then there may be other factors at play. Again, for your consideration. If one person builds a shock and it soon leaks and another one builds the same shock and it doesn't------???????

But as you said, you know a lot about R/C. My own opinion of my R/C knowledge and experience isn't that elevated. That's why the occasional disclaimer that all my posts are for the readers consideration. It seems as though the more I know, the less I know and the less dogmatic I become.
hahaha. I am owned!

By no means am I undermining your knowledge or any of your posts. I value them a lot! I am simply posting my own experience and work arounds. The primary reason why these Tamiya dampers leak is loose tolerance.

Especially the CVA's are made very cheap. Some do not leak, but often times they do. And by adding a shim prevents them from leaking means it is basically a manufacturing defect or at the limit of tolerance for Tamiya.

The red o-rings they come with don't help either. The clear ones are better, but not that great either. The blue is closer, but why not just get the x-rings at this point.

For me, I come from the manufacturing world and these things are nothing new to me. I just figure out a quick way to fix and make it work.

I made my own shims today using the 1/8" and a standard sized hole puncher. I used a thin lid from a disposable food container and punched the 1/8" hole first, then lined up the standard sized hole puncher holding the puncher upside down so that I can aim for the center. Took me several tries to make them evenly round (my yield not yet very good) but it fit perfectly into the damper housing and provided just the right amount of compression for the x-ring.

No more leaks.
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Old 04-17-2015, 01:21 AM
  #23421  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
"58614 RCC New M Size 4WD Chassis (Body:Suzuki Jimny)"

I wonder what they're up to this time.
Seems it's a new platform chassis MF-01X
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Old 04-17-2015, 03:13 AM
  #23422  
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Originally Posted by marcos graveyar
Seems it's a new platform chassis MF-01X
I wonder what they'll come with.. MF sounds more like name for FF chassis, but Jimny is AWD.. But they could make some new suspension for sure
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Old 04-17-2015, 04:55 AM
  #23423  
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I am definitely interested in this new offroad chassis!
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Old 04-17-2015, 09:58 AM
  #23424  
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Originally Posted by sakadachi
hahaha. I am owned!

By no means am I undermining your knowledge or any of your posts. I value them a lot! I am simply posting my own experience and work arounds. The primary reason why these Tamiya dampers leak is loose tolerance.

Especially the CVA's are made very cheap. Some do not leak, but often times they do. And by adding a shim prevents them from leaking means it is basically a manufacturing defect or at the limit of tolerance for Tamiya.

The red o-rings they come with don't help either. The clear ones are better, but not that great either. The blue is closer, but why not just get the x-rings at this point.

For me, I come from the manufacturing world and these things are nothing new to me. I just figure out a quick way to fix and make it work.

I made my own shims today using the 1/8" and a standard sized hole puncher. I used a thin lid from a disposable food container and punched the 1/8" hole first, then lined up the standard sized hole puncher holding the puncher upside down so that I can aim for the center. Took me several tries to make them evenly round (my yield not yet very good) but it fit perfectly into the damper housing and provided just the right amount of compression for the x-ring.

No more leaks.
Nah, you missed the point of my post. I like people to question my posts. I'm even wrong on occasion, so good discussion is helpful and expands the depth and width of whatever knowledge I may have. Too often people, that includes both you and me, become so invested in their particular "argument" or point of view, that they don't bother to look at the problem from both perspectives. This seems to be the case here, but then there always is the possibility that the error is mine.

I did not want to post in this way cause it could be taken the wrong way. The point is that when I build a Tamiya TRF Mini shock, they don't leak---ever. Your experience is different. There may be a number of reasons for this, the most obvious being a difference in the assembly procedure. I posted a tutorial on building shocks a couple of years ago and was gratified by the number of people who had positive results. The most common error was placing the o-ring in the shock body, then inserting the shock shaft. The correct order being to place the shock shaft assembly in the shock body, lubricate the threads on the shock shaft, then placing the o-ring over the shaft, then into the shock body. If the assembly order isn't followed, there is a high possibility if the shock prematurely leaking. I have not worked with the CVA shocks, but a few of the guys I run with do use them. I haven't heard of any leaking problems. I believe tho, that they use the pistons from TRF shocks, but am not sure.

Your solution is very ingenious and, quite frankly, I wouldn't have thought of it. My mind doesn't work that way. I'm simple minded guy and prefer simple solutions and avoid the complex. I'm also cheap and don't like buying stuff especially in this case since my shocks don't leak to begin with.
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Old 04-17-2015, 10:43 AM
  #23425  
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I've been building Tamiya TRF shocks (and their ancestors) for 15-odd years on and off. Never had one leak. Never had to rebuild the seal assembly. Got several hanging around on old cars and in parts boxes that are squeak-free and ready to race with.

My secret? Just follow the instructions and use common sense - lubricate the o-ring before slipping it over the threaded shaft, keep everything clean.

Most problems I see with shocks is from people trying to build them like the "pros" and attempting to tune the level of rebound. These shocks are very simple and you cannot "tune" rebound without rebuilding after every run - you are forcing the shock to do something its design does not permit.

Tamiya's instructions are good and the parts are good. The clear o-rings are perfect. I wouldn't put a hand-made shim any where near a CNC finished part like a TRF shock.

CVA shocks however are junk and I wouldn't waste any effort trying to improve them. They do a job in the short term but should be replaced on any car that is regularly raced. They don't share any parts with a TRF shock (although o-rings would be compatible).
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Old 04-17-2015, 11:00 AM
  #23426  
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Hi Granpa- Yes, the o-rings are always lubed prior to the shaft thread insertion.
Remember, back 15 yrs ago, oil dampers existed, so I know. Thanks for all the tips, please keep it coming.


In other news, I finally got my package from the Japanse hobby shop. I was able to get the CVD's back in my M03 last night. The WR02 servo bracket is about 0.5mm longer to the servo mounting hole. I might swap out the Futaba servo to the S6040 and run Kimbrough if I can't align the modified servo horn without hitting the top of the M03 chassis.

I also got a lot of spares for my M-Four from Tamiya. Tonight I will be putting together a 25mm fan somewhere permanently to cool the hot running 380 motor.. I made an impromptu bracket last night and it was quite efficient. My goal is to run 10min straight without motor heat fade. After 10min, the Lipo sits around 3.82V each, so this is perfect for just tossing it my firebag after a run. wish me luck.

Hope you all have a great weekend!
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Old 04-17-2015, 11:15 AM
  #23427  
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Originally Posted by marcos graveyar
Seems it's a new platform chassis MF-01X
From thercracer.com

The next new chassis is the MF-01X this is a 4WD mini chassis. It has 3 adjustable wheelbases (210mm, 225mm and 239mm) The chassis is a monocoque shaft driven car with the motor mounted at the rear.

Jimny (JB23) (MF-01X)
Three wheel base further widen the play!
Compact shaft drive 4WD model is new!

Compact M orthodox play tough in the chassis size! "MF-01X" chassis
Choosing a travel location in handy size "involuntarily want become Tsuredashi to play" has been developed on the concept of "MF-01X" chassis.
The main frame is a monocoque structure that is integral to the gear box, and both light weight and high rigidity.
The middle of the chassis of the horizontal battery, I've realized the shaft 4WD compact size in the rear motor layout.
Equipped with tire of touring car size to 4-wheel double wishbone suspension, and finished in the "play" chassis you do not choose a place to run.
Also, change the spacer is joint to the chassis, it is three wheelbase by combining shaft released simultaneously selectable.


The choice to "Suzuki Jimny" The body
Compact and fit the chassis concept that can play tough, and chose "Suzuki Jimny" the body.
Yet light car, and model the popularity of JB23 type to be full-fledged 4WD cross-country diversity to the base of the competition vehicle and customized car as vehicle.
To "MF-01 X chassis" on compact M size, 1/10 in combination with the touring car the size of the rally block tires, perfect for the Jimny running around to healthy image.
Even customize the vehicle as well machine to their liking good, also take out the leisure accompany good, it is one that easily can taste the fun of hobby RC car.

And transfer the motor power that was installed in the Riyaendo in front in the chassis side of the shaft.
Simple main frame of the monocoque structure also an integrated gear box, I was also pursuing ease of assembly.

3 types of wheel-based can be selected
3 replace the mainframe central spacer block consisting of division,
Released simultaneously become length of different shaft and three by the combination of the wheel-based can be selected.
You can also enjoy in combination with existing M chassis body.

Last edited by marcos graveyar; 04-17-2015 at 11:17 AM. Reason: more details.
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Old 04-17-2015, 11:19 AM
  #23428  
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macros- Thanks for the info! I am DEFINITELY interested now.

Where do I place my order?
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Old 04-17-2015, 01:59 PM
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I looked around and I decided on the Nano-Tech shorty for now to use on my V2. It is 4200mah, 65C/130C burst. Plenty of power for my bashing purposes.

I will try this one unit for several weeks before deciding to try another brand or not.

Thanks again for all the suggestions.
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Old 04-18-2015, 09:17 AM
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So I am about to order the m03 from the link I posted earlier.
I will also grab I think two of each for the special parts, or should I get more?
With the interchangable parts are they drop ins, or is a bit of modification required?
I know what radio I will get, a fly sky GT-2 something,
However for servo, I am still stuck, I also would have to get a servo saver correct?
What servos and servo savers are you all using?
Also what paint do you use? Because I have heard of some people using things like plasti dip spray.
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