Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Initiate
Okay, What us each M series chassis like, pros, cons, general info
And is it still in production, and what is the real price.
Thanks I just want to get the right one, it seems some favor the M05 and some favor the M03
I think is that I would like to always be able to get parts for whatever car I get (Three years at least)
And is it still in production, and what is the real price.
Thanks I just want to get the right one, it seems some favor the M05 and some favor the M03
I think is that I would like to always be able to get parts for whatever car I get (Three years at least)
Okay, What us each M series chassis like, pros, cons, general info
And is it still in production, and what is the real price.
Thanks I just want to get the right one, it seems some favor the M05 and some favor the M03
I think is that I would like to always be able to get parts for whatever car I get (Three years at least)
And is it still in production, and what is the real price.
Thanks I just want to get the right one, it seems some favor the M05 and some favor the M03
I think is that I would like to always be able to get parts for whatever car I get (Three years at least)
If you want to buy new for bashing, M05 is fine. If you don't want to spend much money, check ebay for used M03's, M05's. Both are different, yet similar in behavior when compared to the V2.
If you want no-fuss, I suggest you start with the V2. It will cost more in the beginning, but at the end I think it will pay off.
If you want AWD and only plan to run 210mm wheel base, I highly recommend you check out the TA05 M-Four. This is by far a HUGE improvement over all the M-chassis I've had and had a chance to drive. Never mind the 380 motor, it is much faster than any of the M-chassis with the stock 540 silver can.
It is far better than the old HPI MiniRS4's, far better than the Roadrunners. I want to try the Atom some day.
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
What do you guys think of the ABC 210mm's?
They also have FWD and RWD.
My basement track has only moderate traction so the MFour does extremely well. Like RWD, I can power rotate the rear of the car mid-turn and have AWD acceleration during exit.
Extreme TC driving with a Rover Mini body.
They also have FWD and RWD.
My basement track has only moderate traction so the MFour does extremely well. Like RWD, I can power rotate the rear of the car mid-turn and have AWD acceleration during exit.
Extreme TC driving with a Rover Mini body.
and FWIW i'd take a m03 over a m05 any day.
I want AWD for my track.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
M03 - tough and simple, with only a few part numbers that separate them from every other mini out there. 50792 - chassis, 50793 - body posts, etc. Both are frequently available on eBay or from online stores. I recently bought each for $4. They're cheap enough to buy a few as spares. That will last you for years to come!
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
i wish the mfour accepted full sized electronics.
xpress makes a nice 4wd mini:
http://www.rcmart.com/xpress-mrr2pro...cPath=420_1177
the atomic is also nice:
http://www.rcmart.com/atomic-series-...cPath=420_1407
i think they did, there was a rumor about a new chassis but that was over a year ago.
i wish the mfour accepted full sized electronics.
xpress makes a nice 4wd mini:
http://www.rcmart.com/xpress-mrr2pro...cPath=420_1177
the atomic is also nice:
http://www.rcmart.com/atomic-series-...cPath=420_1407
i wish the mfour accepted full sized electronics.
xpress makes a nice 4wd mini:
http://www.rcmart.com/xpress-mrr2pro...cPath=420_1177
the atomic is also nice:
http://www.rcmart.com/atomic-series-...cPath=420_1407
I think I will look into the Atomics next.
The MFour can use regular electronics besides the motor if you get the steering servo relocation kit from Tamiya. I didn't bother doing this because even if I used a shorty with higher mAh, the motor gets too hot anyways within 10min, so wanted to keep everything the lightest weight possible by running the smaller 2S and just limit my run time to 6.5min.
Also, there is plenty of room for a standard sized servo if you mount your receiver on top of it. I got the low profile S6070 (spektrum) but there was really no need. I could've just used my Futaba digital servo I already had. For my purpose the M-Four is perfect. I just want other 4WD m-chassis to play with in my tight track.
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
lipos fit my genetic fine. i was using 4000mah turnigy's with the carbon brace.
i see a couple of used genetics on the bay, but they aren't cheap.
there were a few things about the car i didn't like, pillow ball's for one.
stock diffs were junk but the options diffs were cheap and worked great.
i ran it on a carpet oval with yeah racing foam tires, it was glued.
my buddy made a run at me with an ofna jle12 (or something like that) but he spent a ton of time on it and it was almost as good as the genetic.
i really want to try that atomic, but the mini racing has dried up around here.
i see a couple of used genetics on the bay, but they aren't cheap.
there were a few things about the car i didn't like, pillow ball's for one.
stock diffs were junk but the options diffs were cheap and worked great.
i ran it on a carpet oval with yeah racing foam tires, it was glued.
my buddy made a run at me with an ofna jle12 (or something like that) but he spent a ton of time on it and it was almost as good as the genetic.
i really want to try that atomic, but the mini racing has dried up around here.
lipos fit my genetic fine. i was using 4000mah turnigy's with the carbon brace.
i see a couple of used genetics on the bay, but they aren't cheap.
there were a few things about the car i didn't like, pillow ball's for one.
stock diffs were junk but the options diffs were cheap and worked great.
i ran it on a carpet oval with yeah racing foam tires, it was glued.
my buddy made a run at me with an ofna jle12 (or something like that) but he spent a ton of time on it and it was almost as good as the genetic.
i really want to try that atomic, but the mini racing has dried up around here.
i see a couple of used genetics on the bay, but they aren't cheap.
there were a few things about the car i didn't like, pillow ball's for one.
stock diffs were junk but the options diffs were cheap and worked great.
i ran it on a carpet oval with yeah racing foam tires, it was glued.
my buddy made a run at me with an ofna jle12 (or something like that) but he spent a ton of time on it and it was almost as good as the genetic.
i really want to try that atomic, but the mini racing has dried up around here.
Thanks for the input and tips on the work you did on your Genetics.
Yah, I don't do any competitive racing now, just screwing around my basement track and around the house with my kids. I have TC's but they are far too big and too fast for my tiny track, so these 1/12 scales are perfect. 1/18 is okay too, but I prefer the 1/12 size as I have more flexibility being able to drive outside in the parking lot too if I wanted.
Have you dealt with rcmart in person? How are they with delivery and customer service?
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
rcmart (dinball on ebay) is fine. shipping can be slow.
i bought my abc's from abchobbyusa directly.
i've bought tons of stuff from rcmart over the years.
i bought my abc's from abchobbyusa directly.
i've bought tons of stuff from rcmart over the years.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
In the interest of staying focused, there is a separate thread for the http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...05-m-four.html and threads for the other minis are out there, too.
Thanks, kaiser. I will inquire abchobbyusa if they have any plans to release new 4WD's down the road. For now I am good with the M-Four. Thanks again!
M03 - tough and simple, with only a few part numbers that separate them from every other mini out there. 50792 - chassis, 50793 - body posts, etc. Both are frequently available on eBay or from online stores. I recently bought each for $4. They're cheap enough to buy a few as spares. That will last you for years to come!
Also, anyone know where I can source the M03 aluminum servo mounts? I've been using the plastic factory ones + adding a long screw which made it fairly solid, but not as accurate as I want it to be.
My 2cents on other 4wd mini's,
Hands down the TOP Sabre 4wd Mini is super nice and the best I've driven. I've owned several "true ten mini's" and TOP Sabre 4WD is the nicest in my opinion. It is expensive, but on par with top of the line 1/10th TC's.
Also I have a HPI Cup Racer on eBAy right now, -it is a 4wd mini. It handles much better than the Tamiya 2WD minis. I have a great price and it comes w/ a ton of extras ---okay that is my plug ...but had to shout it out since we're talking other Mini's right now.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-Cup-Race...item19fea8bd17
The Atomic lipo's (I think that is what they are called) are also nice, and the price is very competitive, but keep in mind that they have some issues and will need some upgraded parts to get the driving just right ...unless of course you only plan on bashing it and not racing it.
lots of options out there!
Hands down the TOP Sabre 4wd Mini is super nice and the best I've driven. I've owned several "true ten mini's" and TOP Sabre 4WD is the nicest in my opinion. It is expensive, but on par with top of the line 1/10th TC's.
Also I have a HPI Cup Racer on eBAy right now, -it is a 4wd mini. It handles much better than the Tamiya 2WD minis. I have a great price and it comes w/ a ton of extras ---okay that is my plug ...but had to shout it out since we're talking other Mini's right now.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-Cup-Race...item19fea8bd17
The Atomic lipo's (I think that is what they are called) are also nice, and the price is very competitive, but keep in mind that they have some issues and will need some upgraded parts to get the driving just right ...unless of course you only plan on bashing it and not racing it.
lots of options out there!
Tech Elite
Where did you find the M03 chassis for $4, monkeyracing? The cheapest I saw in the USA was $13..
Also, anyone know where I can source the M03 aluminum servo mounts? I've been using the plastic factory ones + adding a long screw which made it fairly solid, but not as accurate as I want it to be.
Also, anyone know where I can source the M03 aluminum servo mounts? I've been using the plastic factory ones + adding a long screw which made it fairly solid, but not as accurate as I want it to be.
Out of curiosity how accurate does it have to be???? Seems to me if you're not using a big Kimbrough servo saver, the inaccuracies in your steering can be traced to your servo saver rather than the servo mounts. Many of the Mini Mafia were using the plastic mounts on some of their cars. None of us used anything but a Kimbrough servo saver.
Another problem some people run into is spacing the servo down. This can lead to a less than solid mounting. There is absolutely no measurable advantage in doing this. The amount doing this will lower the CG is so minute, your time would be better spent currying the hairs in a gnats ass.