I'm no expert but when asking a few of the experienced (and fast) guys at a big race event is that most of all them run little to no droop....about arms level so to speak. I had quite a bit on my little guys M05 so for now I just tightened the lower shock ends past the threads and now I have minimal droop.

Later on when I rebuild the shocks I'll install tubing or an o-ring on the shock shafts and do it that way.

If you have the Tamiya TRF shocks, it's best NOT to screw the lower coupler in past the threads. Tightened properly, you will see just a bit of thread on the shaft. You tighten the coupler till it just bottoms out. The couplers and the shock threads are amazingly consistent.

Screwing the coupler past that point will cause the shock to bind on the suspension ball. It's work, but it's best to put the appropriate spacer in the shock. If you want the shock longer, unwinding the coupler a little won't hurt.

rebound
 

when building shock for the mini
how do i set the rebound? (keep in mind im newbie)

do i have the piston all the way in or out or where?

thanks tt

I know the best way to decrease droop is to install tubing or oring on the shock shafts to shorten the length of the shock but I'm not sure I get you...."the shock will bind on the suspension ball "?

If you screw the shock shaft into the eyelet too far, it will eventually force itself through the plastic and jam up the ball.

I tap mine a little to start them, then chase the hope with a screw till it bottoms.

[QUOTE=TeamThibault;13025038]when building shock for the mini
how do i set the rebound? (keep in mind im newbie)

do i have the piston all the way in or out or where?

You adjust the amount of rebound by how far the coupler is from the bottom of the shock body when you place the diaphragm and top shock collar on the shock. If the coupler is 2mm from the shock, you'll have a shock that has 2-3mm of rebound. If you had pushed the coupler up to where it touches the shock body, you'll generally get a shock with 1mm of rebound cause you'll generally trap a bit of air above the diaphragm and the top of the shock. Building a zero rebound shock is nearly impossible without drilling a small hole in the top of the shock. Hope I worded that so it was understandable.


It's easy, if you screw the coupler on the shock shaft in till it bottoms out in the coupler, that's as far as it can go w/out distorting the coupler. If you screw past that, the plastic at the end of the shock coupler or connector has nowhere to go. What happens is that the hole in the coupler becomes distorted and you wind up with a very tight fit. When you put a shock on the car, without snapping on the top of the shock, the shock should just "flop" over. If you over tighten the coupler on the shock shaft, you'll be able to snap the shock on the suspension ball, but the shock will stay in the position you placed it. This will give you a "weird" handling car.

Hi all,

I'm thinking of buying a top brushed ESC for my silvercan/NIMH powered (club rules) M05. I have no problems or issues with my Tamiya 105 ESC but wondered if a top spec ESC would give it a little more speed? Aside from finding/water dipping etc a good silvercan, do the high spec ESC's give a silvercan powered car more speed, or just a smoother throttle, or neither??

Oh, and I want reverse too.

Cheers!

I had a Tekin ESC I wasn't using so I stuck it in my M03. It seemed to me to be a little faster but no empirical data to really prove it. One thing I did find was that increasing the throttle EPA past 100% did actually offer more motor speed. That may just be a result of the radio/esc combination.

I can now justify the ESC because I've also put a 21.5 BL motor in it.

With the criteria you've specified, the best esc for you would be the Tekin FXR. It has reverse and is much smaller than the Tamiya unit. I'm sure there are others, but that's the best one I've ever used for less than $100. The power that the motor will get from differing esc's is negligible. What you'll get is reliability, smaller size, and smoothness of operation.

In spite of rumors to the contrary, there is very little variation in the Silvercan motors. After water dipping, fully 90% of the motors will fall into a 2-300rpm range, which is really insignificant. This is if your club rules specify a "stock" motor or the Tamiya #53689 Johnson 540J motor. There are a lot of motors with silver colored cans which can turn as much !0k faster than the "Silvercan" motors. Also, you can "modify" the Silvercan to turn as much as 30k compared to the 18k or so of a Stock motor. If your club allows those, a better esc might be a wise precaution.

Thanks guys

Granpa, I've had the FXR on my radar for a while and have almost bought it on occasion. When I've read the marketing on them it mentions a programme card or such like. Do those need the card to 'tune them? Or are they infact set up out of the box?

Thanks!

No program card required. The built in setup is fairly easy to learn.

Protek Lipo
 

Does anyone ever try a Protek Super Stock 3800 50C batteries? Any thoughts?

I have had a few sets of them. Though they're on par performance wise with most other stick shape packs, my first two sets puffed within two track days. Returned for full exchange. My second set has about 6 or so track days and are starting to puff. ymmv

In their defense, I do charge at 2C, and do burn a lot of laps at my local track as I am playing catch up in skill compared to the other members in our group.

Thanks. I read the same reviews. You just saved me a lot of headache and $59.

Every Protec battery I've ever seen puffed sooner rather than later.

I'm not saying they are junk, but all the ones I saw were...