snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

Im not Andy, but Inside, just like a can of pactra or anything else. The model master custom Laquer series is meant (on Model Cars) to be used with a clear coat, but on lexan, the shell IS the clear coat. They are not as shiny as the enamels. But the Enamels dont work on lexan.

The answer is inside. Make sure you are using the Model Master Custom Laquer series paints. Dont use the standard Testors Enamels.

The only time Ive seen them used on the outside is when going for the flat black hood look.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

I've tried some other non-lexan paints from Tamiya and Testors. I'm too lazy to get/clean an airbrush so I'm limited to rattle cans.

Can anyone who has used the non-lexan specific paints that are lacquer based tell us all how they held up in racing conditions?

Pactra has a decent selection of lexan paints, but Tamiya also has a good selection for lexan bodies in their PS line (http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/cat...p?sub-id=61700). The PS line include gold and copper in rattle cans as well as a nice pink - anyone for a Panther Pink Cuda?

If the Tamiya TS line which is also a lacquer paint would hold up to racing (http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/cat...d=61500&page=1), that would give more choices to the rattle can painters out there. I have used Tamiya TS-41 Coral Blue on an Indycar body and it seemed to work okay, but I didn't get into any accidents with that car that abused the body.

robk

iTrader: (22)

Regular auto primer works great for this, as well as the "murdered out" look. Auto primer does have some flex agent, so it sticks very well to lexan.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

Hey, just found this website that will help if you want to see what colors were available for the '70 AAR Cudas - http://www.aarcuda.com/

This link has a color chart with links to photos of real AAR Cudas - http://www.members.shaw.ca/aarcuda/aarfaq.html

Gotta love some of the names of the colors - Sassy Grass Green, Vitamin C Orange, etc.

Found another site with better photos of AAR Cudas - http://www.aarta.com/

UltegraSTI

iTrader: (20)

:tweetles thumbs:

waitin to be sure on which bl motor i need to buy...

R

robk

iTrader: (22)

If you want to run lipo, 21.5.

snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

If this series goes with 21.5 then its likely that our local club will too.

losi nut

iTrader: (1)

That's most of our club is doing, although there are a couple of die hard brush guys running 4 cell

speedsterblade

I'm definitely prefer brushless for most things but in TA I'd rather it stay old school.......brushed. I just can't make my self buy a 21.5 when I got so many 27s around that work just fine.

TQTom

Omaha's HobbyPlex currently is running a mix of brushed and brushless motors in it's TA class. The quoted FDRs are working just fine for the 21.5 motor. There's good competition and, as always, it come down to driving and a little bit of luck.
I feel that the 21.5/Lipo is good for the class. It places the emphases on set-up and driving skills. Keeping the costs down and having fun, isn't that what this class is about?

chicagokenji

What are the dimensions of the Omaha track?

Compare the 21.5 to a stock brushed using speed on the straightaway and punch in the infield. Does a certain type of driver do better with one or the other?

Enquiring minds want to know!

Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

The flat black hood is Exactly what I was looking for. Guess it is time to do a new Cud'a!!

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Or...you can use Tamiya XF-1 water base paint in air brush. XF paint is flat base paint, only unknown is will that withstand impact while racing...because XF paint is for scale model use only.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

This body was painted using Testors Model Master Custom Lacquer System Paints. (http://www.testors.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=95)

Hood -Model Master 28134 Flat Back (on inside of body)
Main - Model Master 28124 Panther Pink - Dodge paint code M3 (1970/71)

The paint went on like any other lexan paint I've used out of rattle cans. I normally spray light coats and dry quickly with hair dryer. Was able to paint this car fairly quick after masking. Will have to see how it holds up to racing.

The flash from my digital camera makes the paint look a bit more pink, but it is actually a bit darker. My second choice was green. Might have to paint up one of those too.

padailey

iTrader: (11)

100 x 48 approx. The brushed motors here aren't real big for the top runners but there is one. He doesn't run real top end motors though but is very competitive anyway. He could gear it so the straight speed was the same but the motor would fade too much by the end of the race (especially the 8 min main). So he gave up a little on top speed for more punch and is right in the fight each week with very little fade. I can tell you that the in the top 4 or 5 cars any of which are capable of winning there is 17.5's, 21.5's, 27T and even an occasional lipo Stinger. Only one person still running a Stinger now but was put in so those with lipos could run without having to get a new brushless setup right away. So I guess all I can say is all the combos we use are capable of winning. We don't really try to gear to win we try and gear to make them all close. If guys are a little too fast generally they will gear back to the pack for better closer racing (or they'll be asked to).