1LikesU.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing
07-17-2009, 09:30 PM
#5493
I'm sure this could be debated all day long, but if you can find more affordable TC5s I'd just go that route. Mine has taken some serious beating as I've learned to race it and has held up with no real breakage at all. I've heard others at the track say the same thing about their ruggedness. Also, if you're all running the same car it will make setup and spare parts that much easier to handle. If you look around you can even find the standard TC5 team car still for $250 new. Just my 2 cents.
07-17-2009, 09:41 PM
#5494
I'm sure this could be debated all day long, but if you can find more affordable TC5s I'd just go that route. Mine has taken some serious beating as I've learned to race it and has held up with no real breakage at all. I've heard others at the track say the same thing about their ruggedness. Also, if you're all running the same car it will make setup and spare parts that much easier to handle. If you look around you can even find the standard TC5 team car still for $250 new. Just my 2 cents.
I plan on the 2 additional cars to likely run a 27T Brushed setup on 4 Cell NiMH's, as I have a bunch of stick packs I can break up into 3 packs per car. This also lets me still use the 2 MRC chargers I have for NiMH's.
This is for a 5yr old, and a 16yr old. I think my main concern is that the car should go straight when you let go of the wheel.
07-18-2009, 07:52 AM
#5497
What about a TC4? Mine has been working great for me. I have also been running VTA and learning to race. Had several had hits and its just the body that is showing wear. Parts are still readily available too.
One other thing I like is that there's almost always somebody at the track who raced one to help if your stumped.
One other thing I like is that there's almost always somebody at the track who raced one to help if your stumped.
07-18-2009, 08:29 AM
#5498
TC3's and TC4's are PLENTY durable, especially at the reduced speeds (lighter impacts) of VTA. Best part is you can get two of either (nice examples) and a PILE of parts and still have money left over compared to the price of a single TC5. Plus if you need more the parts for either are CHEAP and PLENTIFUL.
They're also plenty competitive in the class as the speeds are lower so the chassis of any TC really aren't being pushed to their limit. I would argue that the shaft drive is an advantage in this power-limited class too and that the dreaded "torque steer" of song and story (not that I'd ever noticed in higher power classes) just doesn't exist at VTA power levels.
Where the TC3-4 comes up short:
a) ease of adjustability. They're just plain a pita compared to more modern cars to adjust things like rear toe, anti-squat or dive, etc. That said, once you find a good setup that works who really changes these things anyway (other than folks with WAY too much time for practicing and futzing with cars)
b) for running the LiPo / 21.5 option you need to create pinion clearance for the larger pinions you'll need to run. This isn't rocket science, but it is an extra step. This is not necessary at all running the 4-cell / 27T you indicate the kids will start out with, but if you upgrade to LiPo / 21.5 you'll need to play with this. By then you'll be familiar with the cars and will be able to see EXACTLY what needs doing to accomplish this.
I raced TC3's for a long time (when I bothered racing TC) and have raced a TC4 in VTA for two years now. The only Achilles heel I've found on the TC4 is that the steering racks seem subject to breakage right in the center where they're notched for the "servo saver" capability. If I was going to run a kid with a TC4 I'd give some thought to using a servo saver on the servo too as an attempt to take a bit of pressure off the steering rack.
OH...if you're "shopping" for TC3-4's I'd advise against the RTR cars. Ask rather than assume, but the aluminum drive axles are worthy upgrades for "learning drivers" and the threaded aluminum shocks are pretty much "must-haves" for racing. Don't assume either of these are on a car even if it's advertised as "FT". If you can't clearly see the parts ask the question.
Good luck in your family VTA adventure. You'll have a lot of fun together.
They're also plenty competitive in the class as the speeds are lower so the chassis of any TC really aren't being pushed to their limit. I would argue that the shaft drive is an advantage in this power-limited class too and that the dreaded "torque steer" of song and story (not that I'd ever noticed in higher power classes) just doesn't exist at VTA power levels.
Where the TC3-4 comes up short:
a) ease of adjustability. They're just plain a pita compared to more modern cars to adjust things like rear toe, anti-squat or dive, etc. That said, once you find a good setup that works who really changes these things anyway (other than folks with WAY too much time for practicing and futzing with cars)
b) for running the LiPo / 21.5 option you need to create pinion clearance for the larger pinions you'll need to run. This isn't rocket science, but it is an extra step. This is not necessary at all running the 4-cell / 27T you indicate the kids will start out with, but if you upgrade to LiPo / 21.5 you'll need to play with this. By then you'll be familiar with the cars and will be able to see EXACTLY what needs doing to accomplish this.
I raced TC3's for a long time (when I bothered racing TC) and have raced a TC4 in VTA for two years now. The only Achilles heel I've found on the TC4 is that the steering racks seem subject to breakage right in the center where they're notched for the "servo saver" capability. If I was going to run a kid with a TC4 I'd give some thought to using a servo saver on the servo too as an attempt to take a bit of pressure off the steering rack.
OH...if you're "shopping" for TC3-4's I'd advise against the RTR cars. Ask rather than assume, but the aluminum drive axles are worthy upgrades for "learning drivers" and the threaded aluminum shocks are pretty much "must-haves" for racing. Don't assume either of these are on a car even if it's advertised as "FT". If you can't clearly see the parts ask the question.
Good luck in your family VTA adventure. You'll have a lot of fun together.
07-18-2009, 08:59 AM
#5499
TC3's and TC4's are PLENTY durable, especially at the reduced speeds (lighter impacts) of VTA. Best part is you can get two of either (nice examples) and a PILE of parts and still have money left over compared to the price of a single TC5. Plus if you need more the parts for either are CHEAP and PLENTIFUL.
They're also plenty competitive in the class as the speeds are lower so the chassis of any TC really aren't being pushed to their limit. I would argue that the shaft drive is an advantage in this power-limited class too and that the dreaded "torque steer" of song and story (not that I'd ever noticed in higher power classes) just doesn't exist at VTA power levels.
Where the TC3-4 comes up short:
a) ease of adjustability. They're just plain a pita compared to more modern cars to adjust things like rear toe, anti-squat or dive, etc. That said, once you find a good setup that works who really changes these things anyway (other than folks with WAY too much time for practicing and futzing with cars)
b) for running the LiPo / 21.5 option you need to create pinion clearance for the larger pinions you'll need to run. This isn't rocket science, but it is an extra step. This is not necessary at all running the 4-cell / 27T you indicate the kids will start out with, but if you upgrade to LiPo / 21.5 you'll need to play with this. By then you'll be familiar with the cars and will be able to see EXACTLY what needs doing to accomplish this.
I raced TC3's for a long time (when I bothered racing TC) and have raced a TC4 in VTA for two years now. The only Achilles heel I've found on the TC4 is that the steering racks seem subject to breakage right in the center where they're notched for the "servo saver" capability. If I was going to run a kid with a TC4 I'd give some thought to using a servo saver on the servo too as an attempt to take a bit of pressure off the steering rack.
OH...if you're "shopping" for TC3-4's I'd advise against the RTR cars. Ask rather than assume, but the aluminum drive axles are worthy upgrades for "learning drivers" and the threaded aluminum shocks are pretty much "must-haves" for racing. Don't assume either of these are on a car even if it's advertised as "FT". If you can't clearly see the parts ask the question.
Good luck in your family VTA adventure. You'll have a lot of fun together.
They're also plenty competitive in the class as the speeds are lower so the chassis of any TC really aren't being pushed to their limit. I would argue that the shaft drive is an advantage in this power-limited class too and that the dreaded "torque steer" of song and story (not that I'd ever noticed in higher power classes) just doesn't exist at VTA power levels.
Where the TC3-4 comes up short:
a) ease of adjustability. They're just plain a pita compared to more modern cars to adjust things like rear toe, anti-squat or dive, etc. That said, once you find a good setup that works who really changes these things anyway (other than folks with WAY too much time for practicing and futzing with cars)
b) for running the LiPo / 21.5 option you need to create pinion clearance for the larger pinions you'll need to run. This isn't rocket science, but it is an extra step. This is not necessary at all running the 4-cell / 27T you indicate the kids will start out with, but if you upgrade to LiPo / 21.5 you'll need to play with this. By then you'll be familiar with the cars and will be able to see EXACTLY what needs doing to accomplish this.
I raced TC3's for a long time (when I bothered racing TC) and have raced a TC4 in VTA for two years now. The only Achilles heel I've found on the TC4 is that the steering racks seem subject to breakage right in the center where they're notched for the "servo saver" capability. If I was going to run a kid with a TC4 I'd give some thought to using a servo saver on the servo too as an attempt to take a bit of pressure off the steering rack.
OH...if you're "shopping" for TC3-4's I'd advise against the RTR cars. Ask rather than assume, but the aluminum drive axles are worthy upgrades for "learning drivers" and the threaded aluminum shocks are pretty much "must-haves" for racing. Don't assume either of these are on a car even if it's advertised as "FT". If you can't clearly see the parts ask the question.
Good luck in your family VTA adventure. You'll have a lot of fun together.
If I find a good deal for a couple TC4 RTR's, I might go that route, but only if the deal is really good. I still would have to get a motor & rims\tires\body for the class.....
Will keep the kids in NiMH for a while. Keeps me from having to buy 2 more chargers (I have 2 LiPo and 2 MRC 960's already) and I can just get some battery bars and make six 4 cell packs from 4 six cell stick packs. They are all 3000Mah+ so should be fine for starting out.
07-18-2009, 03:20 PM
#5500
I also HIGHLY recommend the TC3 or TC4 as a VTA vehicle, especially for starters. Like what's already been said, parts are still plentiful and they are very durable. I only broke 1 part the entire 9 months that I had my TC4, and that was a caster block because I hit a cement-reinforced apex going about 20 MPH. I've never used aluminum parts on the vehicle, either.
If you want a cheap LiPo charger, you can't go wrong with the Onyx. I don't own one, but I've used them and many of my friends have them.
If you want a cheap LiPo charger, you can't go wrong with the Onyx. I don't own one, but I've used them and many of my friends have them.
07-18-2009, 07:31 PM
#5501
Bump on the TC3s. I have 3 of them. 1 started as a FT car and needed a cleaning and diff rebuild. The second was a team car with FT shocks. I upgraded it to full FT spec for about $60 and my son runs this one because its more durable. The last is my first Touring Car I bought new in 98 or so. It now has an IRS chassis, but hasn't been tested since getting the upgrade. Both have run well and I can TQ with mine on a good day. I paid $100 for that one and have spent less than $25.00 for spare parts. I'm going to try the third car soon. Its ready to go anyway.
07-20-2009, 05:36 AM
#5503
2 minutes into the race, Scooby Horton (Red Cuda) and Mike Haynes (Yellow Camaro) started to trade paint non-stop for 6 minutes. 
These guys were having way too much fun while they entertained everyone and ran the track backwards. 
HD option available.
These guys were having way too much fun while they entertained everyone and ran the track backwards. HD option available.
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