lbckevin

iTrader: (107)

Lets post up your 6 cell rubber tire setup on here...Love to see them with the reedy race coming up....

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

if you have a Xray signin you should be able to get steve's from the website.. I believe he just updated it a couple days ago..

Cheers,

Patrick

joe hose

Here is my question,

I have a T-2 with a team pickle chassis and T-2 top deck should i buy a T-2 007 conversion kit for carpet or a T-2 008 us carpet. What should i upgrade to?

HRCRACER123

iTrader: (33)

Hey guys I am selling my X-Ray if anyone is interested..

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=214576

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

Thats easy.. get the 008, I haven't driven one.. but the 008 rubber car out of the box was faster than my 007.. better manners too.. I love mine

J.Filipow

iTrader: (15)

Dal- I need one or two more weekends on the car before I can post anything helpful setup wise. I have been pretty impressed the car so far, though. Steve has been working with me and getting me up to speed, so it's going well. I think we're coming up to SW for the warm-up event on May 3rd.

J.Filipow

iTrader: (15)

General Building Tips-
I have been doing this for years, but I figured I would go ahead and show everyone one of my trick personal building details: the China marker (aka wax pencil, available at most art or office supply stores) of a contrasting color (yellow is used below) to help identify your spurs and pinions as well as hubs, caster blocks, and more. The technique is to rub/burnish the soft wax pencil along the embossed/stamped surface of the gear/hub/etc so that enough wax is deposited to fill the crevice. Next, take a rag or shop towel, with a light spot of motor spray, and wipe away all the excess wax, leaving only the wax inside of the embossed/stamped area. That area now contrasts enough visually with the black gear/hub/etc, to be easily read or identified. It's not as tedious or difficult as it may seem, trust me.

A 008 rear hub, 1 degree, right-


A 008 caster block, 4 degree, right


Here's an RW 96 tooth spur gear, along with the 20 tooth mid pulley on the 008-



Now the next tip, I can't take any credit for. (Although I do and I will take credit for the ones above!) I snagged this one from Arun Misra at Nexus Racing in Atlanta, GA (nexusracing dot net). This technique will make it really easy to identify the roll center mounts on your car or in your parts box. Grab all your roll center mounts, take an enamel-based paint pen (again, available at most art or office supply stores) and apply just a dot of contrasting color (I chose yellow) on top of the molded dot on each of them. Allow it to dry. If you make a mistake, just take a rag and some motor spray and the paint will come right off.

A 008 rear, mid roll center block-






Go ahead and keep that China marker and paint pen in your tool box; chances are you'll find a few more uses for it. And if enough of you guys dug this post, maybe I will try to show a few more in the future...Enjoy!

dal bains

iTrader: (37)

silver sharpie also works wonders..

Alfie

iTrader: (17)

Just got my 008 EU about a month or so ago, and am loving the way it goes head-to-head with my other mates.

I run a Speed Passion GT ESC, Novak 7.5R, Futaba 9550 servo & Orion Lipo on my car, with the upgrade of the pulley set from Xray. I run my 008 really stiff so to compensate for the high speed motor and my local track.

Didn't like the Spool that came with the kit, so I change to the new Multi-Diff Set. This is my first Xray kit, after being absent from TC class for a long time.

Alfie

Murdoch

The Xray's belt wears fast the teeth and twist.
To compare Tamiya TRF belt, it lasts more than 1 year (2 practice days running per month), the brand is BANDO.
The track condition is clean and smooth asphalt.

Most of Xray driver in our local club have the same problem.
The belt becomes the fast moving parts and a must to have a stock.
I'm using belt tensioner, but the front belt still twisting after several runs.

Anyone has the same problem? Pls share your experience.
Thanks.

Lrpcyclone

What pully's do you use? In modified I get few months out of 1 set of belts.. running 2 times a week.. I use 34/20 pully's. Make sure they are set at the correct tention.

Murdoch

Actually I drive T2 007.
But I see in club, many xray driver (T2, T2 007 and T2 008) had the same problem.
The tension is correct, and I add a belt tensioner.
Made of Tamiya TRF servo holder and 3x10mm + bearings, sits perfectly.
Since of that, the problem of belt twisting is no more big issue.

In local market, I found 3SM 177 from Bando, a little bit stiffer than original belt. But it won't fit to T2 007, since T2 007 uses 3x180mm.

Maybe the original belt is not suitable for tropical wheater and high humidity.
I think, Xray should change the belt's vendor.

Piyo Piyo

For front belt, the faster wear is caused by standard pinion grub screw 3x3mm.
Try to use 3x2.5 mm grub screw to solve the problem.

For twisted belt, try to adjust your tension to stiffer position or rotate the front belt.

dal bains

iTrader: (37)

anyone running orion 4800 in the 008 EU car?
Pics?

Looks like you have to space the top deck just as on the 007.

orion 3600 might be the ticket for this car or smc 4000

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

I have found that with the exception of the 2.375 internal ratio of the 008 EU car all of the xray belts last a long time. If your jumping corner dots on power or other things like that, thats about all I have seen happen. I have every touring car they have made for the last 4 years. Never had a problem with a belt. I have a bando front belt on my carpet 008 that I was testing, I wasn't impressed and found that they actually loose teeth pretty quickly, with similar time on a stock xray belt it might fray a little, just trim the lil hairs off and run it.