Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

He had to mount the servo like that because of other changes he made, the servo itself wasn't so much for a performance advantage, it was just so he could fit the electronics on that side of the car.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I haven't yet run the Serpent ball diff, I had the gear diff from the start, but I will be using a ball diff in my 10.5 car this week at the nats. Basically a gear diff just doesn't slip at all, so if you punch it, all of the power is going to the tires rather than having some of it slip away like a ball diff would.

kschu

iTrader: (16)

randy, is it your belt tension put to tight position( which hole u use from the bearing holder) ?

kschu

iTrader: (16)

randy, is it your belt tension put to tight position( which hole u use from the bearing holder) ?

since you using tamiya shock now, wat u think between d s400 rcc shock and the tamiya shock ? both work d same or not ?

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

When I run a new belt I set the tension fairly tight, but not bound up, once the belts break in they free up perfectly.

I run the Tamiya shocks for more dampening adjustability with the option to put foam or o-rings above the bladder for quicker rebound. I'm sure if they were set up the same as a Serpent shock's rebound they would feel near identical.

kschu

iTrader: (16)

i having difficulty to make d s400 shock to bleed and bound perfectly....thus making my all 4 shock have different rebound rate....in d mean time, s400 shock service kits are very expensive...

i think i might jus get a trf shock to clear out d problem....wat parts tat will alway wear out if i use trf shock ?? o-ring ?bladder?foam? please advise......

yyhayyim

iTrader: (26)

Kshu..the RCC shocks are super easy...just fill them up, and wait for the bubbles to clear. Extend the shock shaft all the way out and then close the shock up and screw it in but only about half way. Then just slowly push the shaft down about 3/4 way and fully close the shock...you should have about 50% rebound. try it. it will take like a minute.

kschu

iTrader: (16)

but it's cant completely compress in d shaft rite?

yyhayyim

iTrader: (26)

right...once you screw in the cap with the shaft, screw it in about half way, and then the shaft you push in slowly, and some oil will start coming out. screw it full and then check rebound.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Also be sure to soak the foam in the shock with oil before assembling everything, this will help to keep air bubbles out of the shock.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

the shock inside foam need keep to repair to new one !

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

or direct change Tamiya new black color limited shock !

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Well I'm off for the nats in the morning, be back next monday night, talk to you guys then!

UK.hardcore

Good luck and have fun!

By any chance, do any of you run the gear-diff with 1000CST oil?

They leak like hell.

Our friend who races Nitro 200mm said we should use thick sticky grease on the o-ring that seals the diff-halves?

Any other opinions?

I notice mine doesnt leak with heavy oils, like 100.000 CSt, but with 1000CSt it leaks.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

HK some peoples use Kyosho 5000 oil,
but i'm feel maybe can use around 1000 oil or lower .