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Old 06-16-2008, 12:40 PM   #2221
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guys, i jus notice tat billy easton car during warm up race got abit different.. d servo mount like tamiya trf415.
He had to mount the servo like that because of other changes he made, the servo itself wasn't so much for a performance advantage, it was just so he could fit the electronics on that side of the car.
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Old 06-16-2008, 12:41 PM   #2222
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Hi Randy...would you care to comment on the feeling of the S400 gear diff vs ball diff you've run in the past?

When you get a chance I'd be cool to get your perspective on the feel of the car in and out of corners with the gear diff as opposec to a rear ball diff.
I haven't yet run the Serpent ball diff, I had the gear diff from the start, but I will be using a ball diff in my 10.5 car this week at the nats. Basically a gear diff just doesn't slip at all, so if you punch it, all of the power is going to the tires rather than having some of it slip away like a ball diff would.
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Old 06-16-2008, 05:32 PM   #2223
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I'm not sure why you're wearing out pulleys, I looked at my origional kit's pulleys and they show no wear at all... Go back to the stock ones with the new belts and you should be fine.
randy, is it your belt tension put to tight position( which hole u use from the bearing holder) ?
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Old 06-16-2008, 05:34 PM   #2224
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I'm not sure why you're wearing out pulleys, I looked at my origional kit's pulleys and they show no wear at all... Go back to the stock ones with the new belts and you should be fine.
randy, is it your belt tension put to tight position( which hole u use from the bearing holder) ?

since you using tamiya shock now, wat u think between d s400 rcc shock and the tamiya shock ? both work d same or not ?
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Old 06-16-2008, 07:33 PM   #2225
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randy, is it your belt tension put to tight position( which hole u use from the bearing holder) ?

since you using tamiya shock now, wat u think between d s400 rcc shock and the tamiya shock ? both work d same or not ?
When I run a new belt I set the tension fairly tight, but not bound up, once the belts break in they free up perfectly.

I run the Tamiya shocks for more dampening adjustability with the option to put foam or o-rings above the bladder for quicker rebound. I'm sure if they were set up the same as a Serpent shock's rebound they would feel near identical.
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Old 06-16-2008, 07:51 PM   #2226
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When I run a new belt I set the tension fairly tight, but not bound up, once the belts break in they free up perfectly.

I run the Tamiya shocks for more dampening adjustability with the option to put foam or o-rings above the bladder for quicker rebound. I'm sure if they were set up the same as a Serpent shock's rebound they would feel near identical.
i having difficulty to make d s400 shock to bleed and bound perfectly....thus making my all 4 shock have different rebound rate....in d mean time, s400 shock service kits are very expensive...

i think i might jus get a trf shock to clear out d problem....wat parts tat will alway wear out if i use trf shock ?? o-ring ?bladder?foam? please advise......
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Old 06-16-2008, 07:57 PM   #2227
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i having difficulty to make d s400 shock to bleed and bound perfectly....thus making my all 4 shock have different rebound rate....i think i might jus get a trf shock to clear out d problem....
Kshu..the RCC shocks are super easy...just fill them up, and wait for the bubbles to clear. Extend the shock shaft all the way out and then close the shock up and screw it in but only about half way. Then just slowly push the shaft down about 3/4 way and fully close the shock...you should have about 50% rebound. try it. it will take like a minute.
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Old 06-16-2008, 08:26 PM   #2228
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Kshu..the RCC shocks are super easy...just fill them up, and wait for the bubbles to clear. Extend the shock shaft all the way out and then close the shock up and screw it in but only about half way. Then just slowly push the shaft down about 3/4 way and fully close the shock...you should have about 50% rebound. try it. it will take like a minute.
but it's cant completely compress in d shaft rite?
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Old 06-16-2008, 08:29 PM   #2229
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but it's cant completely compress in d shaft rite?
right...once you screw in the cap with the shaft, screw it in about half way, and then the shaft you push in slowly, and some oil will start coming out. screw it full and then check rebound.
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Old 06-16-2008, 10:27 PM   #2230
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Also be sure to soak the foam in the shock with oil before assembling everything, this will help to keep air bubbles out of the shock.
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Old 06-16-2008, 10:59 PM   #2231
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the shock inside foam need keep to repair to new one !
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Old 06-16-2008, 11:02 PM   #2232
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or direct change Tamiya new black color limited shock !
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Old 06-17-2008, 12:05 AM   #2233
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Well I'm off for the nats in the morning, be back next monday night, talk to you guys then!
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Old 06-17-2008, 12:14 AM   #2234
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Good luck and have fun!

By any chance, do any of you run the gear-diff with 1000CST oil?

They leak like hell.

Our friend who races Nitro 200mm said we should use thick sticky grease on the o-ring that seals the diff-halves?

Any other opinions?

I notice mine doesnt leak with heavy oils, like 100.000 CSt, but with 1000CSt it leaks.
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Old 06-17-2008, 12:51 AM   #2235
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Good luck and have fun!

By any chance, do any of you run the gear-diff with 1000CST oil?

They leak like hell.

Our friend who races Nitro 200mm said we should use thick sticky grease on the o-ring that seals the diff-halves?

Any other opinions?

I notice mine doesnt leak with heavy oils, like 100.000 CSt, but with 1000CSt it leaks.
HK some peoples use Kyosho 5000 oil,
but i'm feel maybe can use around 1000 oil or lower .
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