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Old 07-19-2005, 08:21 AM   #14206
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Just about every factory driver I've talked to said ceramics weren't worth the money. They can crack the balls on impacts. Also, a few guys said to run the steel bearings with the stock grease b/c most of the extra grease is thrown out of the bearing after a few packs. Then the bearings are almost maintance free for a long time.
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Old 07-19-2005, 02:18 PM   #14207
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Originally Posted by Pro4Capece
Just about every factory driver I've talked to said ceramics weren't worth the money. They can crack the balls on impacts. Also, a few guys said to run the steel bearings with the stock grease b/c most of the extra grease is thrown out of the bearing after a few packs. Then the bearings are almost maintance free for a long time.
Isn't this what you do Matt H., I think I'll get a couple sets of precisions and fuggetabowdit -JB
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Old 07-19-2005, 02:19 PM   #14208
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Shook-
The LCG is gone -JB
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Old 07-19-2005, 03:18 PM   #14209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
Isn't this what you do Matt H., I think I'll get a couple sets of precisions and fuggetabowdit -JB
I've got ceramics in my SD but my BD still has the kit bearings in it.
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Old 07-19-2005, 03:26 PM   #14210
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Doesnt the BD come with precisions bearings like the SDW? Just curious...
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Old 07-19-2005, 04:35 PM   #14211
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Originally Posted by Tbevofreak
Doesnt the BD come with precisions bearings like the SDW? Just curious...
Nope, they're not the precisions, only the SDW included those.
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Old 07-19-2005, 09:24 PM   #14212
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if you want a smooth and free drive train. esp if you run in stock would use the ceramics. have them in my sdw and they are amazing right outta the package. i do use stock bearings for the outter front bearing, because i do hit stuff, and usually pretty hard. my thoughts are with the BD and in mod you won't be able to tell the difference, cause of the mod motor and the belt. but i've been wrong before.
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Old 07-19-2005, 09:35 PM   #14213
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Whats the difference between kit bearings, Precisions and Ceramics?

I busted the ceramics in my steering knuckles in my CGM, dont run ceramics there if you dont have too
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Old 07-19-2005, 09:50 PM   #14214
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I've had my SD with up to 15 seconds and as low as 2 seconds of freespin. The laptimes had no difference between two levels of freeness. Remember, the motor cogging takes alot of the freeness out of the transmission
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Old 07-19-2005, 10:52 PM   #14215
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Originally Posted by v0rtex
Whats the difference between kit bearings, Precisions and Ceramics?

I busted the ceramics in my steering knuckles in my CGM, dont run ceramics there if you dont have too
The kit bearings are of a regular grade and have a heavy grease in them. They can spin pretty good if you spray out the grease and use a light oil in them.
The Precisions are a better grade compared to the kit bearings with tighter tolerances and they spin a bit better without that much increase in price.
Ceramics are the most free spinning bearing you can buy but a full kit usually goes for around $100.
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Old 07-19-2005, 10:56 PM   #14216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Howard
The kit bearings are of a regular grade and have a heavy grease in them. They can spin pretty good if you spray out the grease and use a light oil in them.
The Precisions are a better grade compared to the kit bearings with tighter tolerances and they spin a bit better without that much increase in price.
Ceramics are the most free spinning bearing you can buy but a full kit usually goes for around $100.
Matt, do you think that ceramics are worth the money? I've heard otherwise, but no feedback Yokomo drivers.
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Old 07-19-2005, 10:56 PM   #14217
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Thanks Matt.

I bought a set of Ceramics for my CGM a while ago and was impressed by them - just wondered where the Precisions fitted into the equasion
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Old 07-19-2005, 11:10 PM   #14218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro4Capece
Matt, do you think that ceramics are worth the money? I've heard otherwise, but no feedback Yokomo drivers.
That's a tough question and I guess it depends on how serious you take racing. For one guy buying a new set of tires every week is wasting money, for the next guy he might be mounting up new tires every 2-3 runs. If you're racing stock or even 19T at a high level (nationals, Reedy race, etc.) then I think they're worth it. If you're not then you can spend $100 better somewhere else.
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Old 07-19-2005, 11:20 PM   #14219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Howard
That's a tough question and I guess it depends on how serious you take racing. For one guy buying a new set of tires every week is wasting money, for the next guy he might be mounting up new tires every 2-3 runs. If you're racing stock or even 19T at a high level (nationals, Reedy race, etc.) then I think they're worth it. If you're not then you can spend $100 better somewhere else.
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Old 07-20-2005, 11:57 AM   #14220
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Default Aluminum or steel diff outdrives ?

Hello,

Im a new guy to this forum and I have found it to be very informative and of a high standard. I drive a brushless Hacker/Schulze powered CGM wich works perfect except for the stock plastic outdrives. The "corners" get round were the diff rings sits and after a while the diff rings slips and melts the outdrives.
I can imagine it happens to hot brushed motors also.
Does Yokomo or any aftermarket company make outdrives in aluminum or steel or any other material that works better then stock ?
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