rc_bam226

Yeah, be careful when you assemble the servo saver. The SDW uses a trimmed version of the servo saver post. The spring however, is original length, if you can screw it on there without stripping the threads, you got it. Unfortunately for me, I had to order a new one. My fix, trim the spring a little, and round off the end where I made my cut, so it won't "dig in."

For the drive train, proper shimming is recommended. Follow Yokomo's instructions, and then play around with the shimming 'till it feels right, not all fit exactly the same way. Pick up the optional shim pack if you can.

rc_bam226

For that price, sounds a little too good to be true.

Turtlemaster

take your time, pay attention to the directions, and yes the sevro saver is a bear to put together, and put a wide bumper kit on it before runnning. arms are hard to come by.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

the square version has only 1 set of body holes... my version allows you to use the innner or outer body holes.

Hopefully Chris has made the modification to my design. the body holes may be a little small... if not for those that has them coming..the body holes can be easily enlarged with a body drill bit. the stock body post is 4.98mm. the body holes I received were measured out to be 4.91mm... on mine I enlarged to 6mm...since I'm using the HPI body post which is a little more rigid.

Dan Hughes

I have been racing today and its the first time we have used the outdoor track this season. I dont know why but i tried and changed everything to make the car stick in the corner. As it will not stick mid corner im losing corner speed. The track is a school playground and its a concrete surface with some loose stones.

Last season i ran my SSG and got it working well near the end. Have the CGM this time round and i can get the thing to work.

This is what the car is set as:

Droop - 3 front, 5 rear
Shocks - 40wt, no3 pistons, RS blues
Arm pos - all way back front and rear
Camber 1 deg all round
Toe - 3 deg rear, 0 deg front.
dual diffs
shock pos - front - outside on tower inside on arm
rear - 2nd outside on tower 2nd inside on arm
camber links - front - inside bottom on tower, middle on hub
rear - middle bottom on tower, 2nd outside on hub
Silver sway bar on rear. inline steering blocks

I need to get rid of some understeer which gets worse in the slow stuf.
Iv got ING 25's with echo yellow thin inserts with no addative as it is banned. What would be the best thing to change? I was going to change oil and pistons but i ran out of time.

I just need what little more out of the car.

pops

iTrader: (1)

Check your rear arms to see if the little connector at the end of the arms is cracked. If this narrow piece is cracked you will loose traction in the corners. Also try a stiffer spring in front.

Dan Hughes

A harder spring in the front was good for the faster stuff but not for the slower. the arms are ok its just that the track is quite dusty and when it gets hot it loses any grip it has.

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

The last post made me think of a problem with my own CGM. I've never run the car yet but just rebuilt the front and rear suspension as the hingepins needed replacement. Also rebuilt the shocks. Why is the droop at 6 to 7 ?? The shocks are at full extension. I can't believe this is normal because many of the setup sheets I 've seen show a droop of 5 or 6. What's wrong ?? SSS (short) shock bodies, Yokomo # 3 pistons frt, #2 Rear, short rod ends (per manual). This car was previously used on carpet. Thanks

StuartC

Dan

Is the ING tyre a control tyre? If not try something else, probably a Take-Off or if you say the grip is no good a Sorex. The ING's just understeer whenever I've run them.

Also try a 1-way, might be risky if you say the grip is low but will definitely help in slow speed stuff.

What body you running?

//Stu

Dan Hughes

Its not a control tyre. I left my takeoffs at home for some reason but i will definatley take them next time. I considered a 1way but i needed to use the brakes quite a bit cps if you chucked it in it would just slide.

Keith Billanti

iTrader: (15)

Bump the rear toe down. 3 degrees is an AWFULL lot. dropping it to 2 or even 1.5 will make it rotate harder as well as give you more speed (tires arent fighting forward motion).

Also, try moving the rear link in a hole or two.. that will create more camber change and less contact patch= more steering.

Change the toe first though, I have never run more than 2 degrees toe and had sucess..

KB

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

Anybody got a fix for my shock problem?? Is using the long shock ends the answer??

ChadCapece

Long shock ends. I think the short bodies and ends are for carpet use.

Johnnytc3

iTrader: (1)

Use the longer shock rod ends or just unscrew your current rods, I think if you have around a ~62-63mm-ish shock length, you can basically cover all the practical settings.

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

Thanks. I started wondering about the long ends after remembering this car was basically designed for carpet use. I'll switch to the long ends.