12LikesYokomo MR-4TC SD
05-02-2005, 07:23 PM
Originally posted by JayBee
Thanx Matt...does this hold true for all bladder shocks 'cause I'm using Tamiya ones? Looks like I'm rebuilding my shocks again, yipee
-JB
Thanx Matt...does this hold true for all bladder shocks 'cause I'm using Tamiya ones? Looks like I'm rebuilding my shocks again, yipee
-JB
05-02-2005, 07:25 PM
Originally posted by Johnnytc3
Are you guys breaking the front cups or the rear?
Are you guys breaking the front cups or the rear?
05-02-2005, 08:11 PM
Turtlemaster, and Pro4Capece, if you guys are killing center drive cups, you might want to consider the Team Suzuki center drive cups. Running 9x2 Cobalt, man you must have geared it low, and since that motor spools up so fast, the drive train could not handle all the torque that was produced. How do your outdrives, look after a couple of runs?
05-02-2005, 08:14 PM
I find the plastic cups are more prone to breaking when running a one way diff. Never broke one with a ball diff up front.
05-02-2005, 08:30 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Ive been fortunate so far with my CGM, six weekends straight with a 9x1 and no breakages other than one ring gear and loosing the front universal pins. I changed to the IRS dog bones up front with the pin cushions and figured out the sweet spot for the shims on the solid spool. The dog bones still look like new, shaft cups has no play, im really impressed with this car so far. Initially i thought it was going to be a pretty fragile and high maintenance, boy was i wrong.
05-02-2005, 08:32 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Oh yea, im also using a tc3 main shaft 
05-02-2005, 09:11 PM
Originally posted by rc_bam226
Turtlemaster, and Pro4Capece, if you guys are killing center drive cups, you might want to consider the Team Suzuki center drive cups. Running 9x2 Cobalt, man you must have geared it low, and since that motor spools up so fast, the drive train could not handle all the torque that was produced. How do your outdrives, look after a couple of runs?
Turtlemaster, and Pro4Capece, if you guys are killing center drive cups, you might want to consider the Team Suzuki center drive cups. Running 9x2 Cobalt, man you must have geared it low, and since that motor spools up so fast, the drive train could not handle all the torque that was produced. How do your outdrives, look after a couple of runs?
its the rear one. i broke the one that came with the car and didn't even make one lap with a brand new one with a snug fit.
btw, this is the SDW i'm running.
05-02-2005, 09:16 PM
Originally posted by Turtlemaster
yep already been looking at the alum ones. gearing a 70/22 (7.487) its a big track. rear out drives are just barely starting to show a little wear after two or maybe its three weekends
its the rear one. i broke the one that came with the car and didn't even make one lap with a brand new one with a snug fit.
btw, this is the SDW i'm running.
yep already been looking at the alum ones. gearing a 70/22 (7.487) its a big track. rear out drives are just barely starting to show a little wear after two or maybe its three weekends
its the rear one. i broke the one that came with the car and didn't even make one lap with a brand new one with a snug fit.
btw, this is the SDW i'm running.
05-02-2005, 10:46 PM
Just get you and a buddy to halves on a package of the suzuki drive cups, you only need them for the rear of the car.
05-02-2005, 10:48 PM
Originally posted by JayBee
Can anyone give me any verification on this? In the Tamiya shocks the foam compensator is covered by the bladder and all is under the top cap... so it's top cap/foam/bladder -JB
Can anyone give me any verification on this? In the Tamiya shocks the foam compensator is covered by the bladder and all is under the top cap... so it's top cap/foam/bladder -JB
05-02-2005, 10:54 PM
The foam compensators I was refering to were in the bottom of the shock body for the MR4TC series of cars. In the updated shocks for the SD they're built just like the tamiya shocks, with the bladder, foam thingy, and the cap.
05-02-2005, 10:59 PM
Originally posted by Matt Howard
The foam compensators I was refering to were in the bottom of the shock body for the MR4TC series of cars. In the updated shocks for the SD they're built just like the tamiya shocks, with the bladder, foam thingy, and the cap.
The foam compensators I was refering to were in the bottom of the shock body for the MR4TC series of cars. In the updated shocks for the SD they're built just like the tamiya shocks, with the bladder, foam thingy, and the cap.
05-02-2005, 11:05 PM
There's always going to be some rebound when using bladder tops, that's just the nature of the design. Yes, leave the foam peices on top of the bladder there. If anything, some people are putting O rings on top of the bladder instead of the foam to get more rebound out of the shock.
05-02-2005, 11:09 PM
I thought having more rebound takes away the 'action' of the springs? -JB
05-02-2005, 11:20 PM
JayBee you change altavars like underwear....everyother day
So are you going to take the LCG plunge?
I have ot wait for at least the end of summer.....
I just got the BD and I promised it I would touch the SD for the rest of the series races unless she expolded or got stolen and you know how promises are. I break that promise she might leave......LOL
Just trying to ge tthe BD setup and fully tried out before attempting another big change....LOL
Stephen <><
So are you going to take the LCG plunge?
I have ot wait for at least the end of summer.....
I just got the BD and I promised it I would touch the SD for the rest of the series races unless she expolded or got stolen and you know how promises are. I break that promise she might leave......LOL
Just trying to ge tthe BD setup and fully tried out before attempting another big change....LOL
Stephen <><