yodace

iTrader: (8)

My yok is only 2 race days old too..
I can hear my bearings when I spin the wheels...

pops

iTrader: (1)

Which bearings do you hear? There are also bearings on the diff outdrives, they turn when you spin the wheels. You need to take them out, clean them and then you can feel any grit in them.

pops

iTrader: (1)

I clean the bearings and re-lube them about every 2 or 3 race days.

pops

iTrader: (1)

I don't know, why don't you take a steering knuckle from a MR4-TC and see if it fits? The C hubs will not fit unless you Dremel the heck out of them. I like the new Graphite better with the new lightweight kingpins. The Suzuki ones can bend (or brake) with a hard hit, and bind your steering. But, they do look pretty cool!

pops

iTrader: (1)

Matt knows more about droop than I do, but I think you need a lower droop number (more droop) for bumpier tracks, and a higher droop number for smoother tracks (less droop) more traction less droop.

yodace

iTrader: (8)

pops,


I can hear the bearings on both the front and rear of the car...

I think its the outdrive bearings...

Do u suggest taking the hub/outdrive bearings out and cleaning them?


Do suggest taking the hub/outdrive bearings out and cleaning them ever 2-3 race days?

lem2

iTrader: (6)

Thanks! I have not seen one before nor have driven a yokomo. Everyone is looking for a Tsuzuki Knuckles on their SD's, anyways will try to fit them when I see the guy selling it for less than 10$.
Peace and Happy Racing! Lem

pops

iTrader: (1)

Clean the wheel bearings every 2 or 3 race days. Every time you rebuild your diff, clean the outdrive bearings and clean your shaft bearings as well. Be sure to re-lube them with a good quality oil.

Aku-Man

How do you guys take off the seals to clean up the bearings?

pops

iTrader: (1)

If they are teflon seals, and sometimes metal seals, I remove the small retainer ring with a hobby knive, then remove the seal. Clean and replace the seal and the ring. It's hard to do the first time, but after you've done it a few times it becomes pretty easy.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

with less droop (higher number) your car will feel more responsive but on a bumpy track will feel erratic. More droop will make the car feel lazy in the corners and transfer weight back and forth more since the car can lean more, more suited to bumpy or low traction tracks. I generally start at 7 in the front and 6 in the rear, measuring off the arm, since speedworld is pretty high bite and fairly smooth

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

I'm having serious trouble adjusting the ride height on my SD Black, after adding a rear shock tower to the front of my car. I'm using the same mounting locations used by Chris T, and Mo on their setup sheets, but I just can't seem to lower the chassis.

Last week I broke my front shock tower, so I decided to place a rear one on the front. As it turns out, this change completely change the handling characteristics of my car and I had another bad weekend of racing.

I can't seem to lower the ride height. I need HELP!!!

Also, question on setting droop... Do you guys adjust droop with the shocks removed (detached from "A" arms)?

Thnx

marzin

Thanks Matt!

Will try it out! Appreciate the info!

glide 1

I've been using this for almost a year now running 23t down to 10t mod motors with no problems at all.... nice and light. I've heard of some racers here snapping them though. A friend of mine has the tc3 version too with no probs either.

pops

iTrader: (1)

What shock ends are you using? You may need shorter shock ends or shorten the shocks. Which hole in the C block are you using? That will effect ride height too. Rayspeed springs and Yokomo springs because of the retainers can change the ride height also.

I check the droop with the shocks attached. If you do it without the shocks attached and the shocks are too short, you will change droop. So you could do it either way, but check it again after the shocks are re-installed.