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Old 05-09-2004, 11:21 AM   #8176
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jeff Werner
Pops- when the bearings are going out what are the warning signs or how are you testing them to see if they need replaced.

Jeff
My yok is only 2 race days old too..
I can hear my bearings when I spin the wheels...
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Old 05-09-2004, 11:28 AM   #8177
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Originally posted by yodace
My yok is only 2 race days old too..
I can hear my bearings when I spin the wheels...
Which bearings do you hear? There are also bearings on the diff outdrives, they turn when you spin the wheels. You need to take them out, clean them and then you can feel any grit in them.
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Old 05-09-2004, 11:30 AM   #8178
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Originally posted by yodace
My yok is only 2 race days old too..
I can hear my bearings when I spin the wheels...
I clean the bearings and re-lube them about every 2 or 3 race days.
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Old 05-09-2004, 11:34 AM   #8179
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Default Re: Re: question

Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
anyone?
I don't know, why don't you take a steering knuckle from a MR4-TC and see if it fits? The C hubs will not fit unless you Dremel the heck out of them. I like the new Graphite better with the new lightweight kingpins. The Suzuki ones can bend (or brake) with a hard hit, and bind your steering. But, they do look pretty cool!
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Old 05-09-2004, 11:38 AM   #8180
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jeff Werner
Matt and Pops...wanted to talk droop. What are your thoughts on initial starting spots for front and rear droop on the CGM? What changes are you looking at obtaining when running less droop (Higher number on guage)?

I am still trying to dial in my Yok...one run it is spooky fast then it gets unstable at times and am trying to get all the info I can...

Jeff
Matt knows more about droop than I do, but I think you need a lower droop number (more droop) for bumpier tracks, and a higher droop number for smoother tracks (less droop) more traction less droop.
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Old 05-09-2004, 11:48 AM   #8181
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pops,


I can hear the bearings on both the front and rear of the car...

I think its the outdrive bearings...

Do u suggest taking the hub/outdrive bearings out and cleaning them?


Do suggest taking the hub/outdrive bearings out and cleaning them ever 2-3 race days?

Last edited by yodace; 05-09-2004 at 05:01 PM.
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Old 05-09-2004, 11:54 AM   #8182
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Quote:
Originally posted by pops
I don't know, why don't you take a steering knuckle from a MR4-TC and see if it fits? The C hubs will not fit unless you Dremel the heck out of them. I like the new Graphite better with the new lightweight kingpins. The Suzuki ones can bend (or brake) with a hard hit, and bind your steering. But, they do look pretty cool!
Thanks! I have not seen one before nor have driven a yokomo. Everyone is looking for a Tsuzuki Knuckles on their SD's, anyways will try to fit them when I see the guy selling it for less than 10$.
Peace and Happy Racing! Lem
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Old 05-09-2004, 12:09 PM   #8183
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Quote:
Originally posted by yodace
pops,


I can hear on both the front and rear of the car...

I think its the outdrive bearings...

Do suggest taking the hub/outdrive bearings out and cleaning them?


Do suggest taking the hub/outdrive bearings out and cleaning them ever 2-3 race days?
Clean the wheel bearings every 2 or 3 race days. Every time you rebuild your diff, clean the outdrive bearings and clean your shaft bearings as well. Be sure to re-lube them with a good quality oil.
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Old 05-09-2004, 01:14 PM   #8184
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How do you guys take off the seals to clean up the bearings?
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Old 05-09-2004, 01:33 PM   #8185
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Originally posted by Aku-Man
How do you guys take off the seals to clean up the bearings?
If they are teflon seals, and sometimes metal seals, I remove the small retainer ring with a hobby knive, then remove the seal. Clean and replace the seal and the ring. It's hard to do the first time, but after you've done it a few times it becomes pretty easy.
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Old 05-09-2004, 01:36 PM   #8186
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jeff Werner
Matt and Pops...wanted to talk droop. What are your thoughts on initial starting spots for front and rear droop on the CGM? What changes are you looking at obtaining when running less droop (Higher number on guage)?

I am still trying to dial in my Yok...one run it is spooky fast then it gets unstable at times and am trying to get all the info I can...

Jeff
with less droop (higher number) your car will feel more responsive but on a bumpy track will feel erratic. More droop will make the car feel lazy in the corners and transfer weight back and forth more since the car can lean more, more suited to bumpy or low traction tracks. I generally start at 7 in the front and 6 in the rear, measuring off the arm, since speedworld is pretty high bite and fairly smooth
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Old 05-09-2004, 07:08 PM   #8187
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Default Ride Height Help!

I'm having serious trouble adjusting the ride height on my SD Black, after adding a rear shock tower to the front of my car. I'm using the same mounting locations used by Chris T, and Mo on their setup sheets, but I just can't seem to lower the chassis.

Last week I broke my front shock tower, so I decided to place a rear one on the front. As it turns out, this change completely change the handling characteristics of my car and I had another bad weekend of racing.

I can't seem to lower the ride height. I need HELP!!!

Also, question on setting droop... Do you guys adjust droop with the shocks removed (detached from "A" arms)?

Thnx
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Old 05-09-2004, 07:23 PM   #8188
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Default Re: Re: Re: Home made Fixed Spool

Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
Losi sells spool pads that are sandpaper discs, I think they cost $1.50. Take apart your diff and clean all the diff lube off of the gear and diff rings. Put the spool pads on top of your diff rings with the sandpaper side out, leave all the diff balls out of the diff but keep the thrust bearings and spring in and screw everything down tight. You now have a spool. I've been running mine like this for over a month now with barely any wear.
Thanks Matt!

Will try it out! Appreciate the info!
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Old 05-09-2004, 07:53 PM   #8189
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Quote:
Originally posted by utieh
what about the quality of the shooter's?
I saw it at $20 in a shop in HK.
I've been using this for almost a year now running 23t down to 10t mod motors with no problems at all.... nice and light. I've heard of some racers here snapping them though. A friend of mine has the tc3 version too with no probs either.
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Old 05-09-2004, 09:10 PM   #8190
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Default Re: Ride Height Help!

Quote:
Originally posted by Geppetto
I'm having serious trouble adjusting the ride height on my SD Black, after adding a rear shock tower to the front of my car. I'm using the same mounting locations used by Chris T, and Mo on their setup sheets, but I just can't seem to lower the chassis.

Last week I broke my front shock tower, so I decided to place a rear one on the front. As it turns out, this change completely change the handling characteristics of my car and I had another bad weekend of racing.

I can't seem to lower the ride height. I need HELP!!!

Also, question on setting droop... Do you guys adjust droop with the shocks removed (detached from "A" arms)?

Thnx
What shock ends are you using? You may need shorter shock ends or shorten the shocks. Which hole in the C block are you using? That will effect ride height too. Rayspeed springs and Yokomo springs because of the retainers can change the ride height also.

I check the droop with the shocks attached. If you do it without the shocks attached and the shocks are too short, you will change droop. So you could do it either way, but check it again after the shocks are re-installed.
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