vtl1180ny

C Hubs
Steering Knuckles
Dogbones
Arms
Wheel bearings
Diff screws

I've only broken one stock plastic arm and it was in the street and I hit myself... I was going through steering hubs and knuckles constantly till I managed to find and upgrade to a set of Suzuki knuckles... Haven't broken one since... I've heard of a few broken rear hubs but have yet to break one myself... One of the main reasons the knuckles are breaking is because the kingpin backs itself out... Broke 2 diff screws, guess I run the diff's kinda tight... I also modified a NTC3 fRPM front bumper to fit the car... Haven't broken anything in weeks...

2Tenths

Recently I've been breaking a lot of diff screws (3 in the last two race days!!!). Has anyone else noticed how weak the screws are? I've been running foams with tight diffs, puting a lot of strain on them. Is there anyway, besides loosening the diffs, to help the problem? Has anyone found an aftermarket or different brand of diff screw that fits and is stronger?

Just to add: If want to have spare parts around, besides diff screws, I would recommend buying extra thrust balls, diff balls, knuckles (if you don't have the aluminum ones), dogbones, stub axles (tobee's are good), and ring/pinion gears.

sosidge

Are you running plenty of grease all around the thrust assembly (spring, washers, balls, screw, the lot)? Another thing to watch out for is that you're not buying the older-style non-stepped diff screws, which would be a little weaker.

Chris Tosolini

if the screw is braking then it is to tight. It does not to be that tight..

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Definately. Looks like I'll be putting together a new chassis for the race, my car got pretty messed up yesterday from practice..

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I ran a fairly tight front diff yesterday to try it in practice, didn't have a problem with it though.

Chris - Thanks for the C Hubs yesterday!

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

I was cleaning my car tonight and I noticed something. Yokomo made an update sometime to the castor blocks, the newer ones have more material in the hole where the driveshaft goes through. I noticed it when I was putting the castor blocks back on my car and one looked different than the other.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

That's a good thing, I broke a caster block yesterday, not sure if it's the new or old though.

Aku-Man

Yokomo have 2 Hop-Ups for Front Hub Carrier.

SD-4134G and SD-4134H

I think G is lighter and H is stronger.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

G is the graphite one, I've only got the regular plastic ones so it must be the H that is beefed up

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

H is just a hard material block, dont think the mold is different.

vtl1180ny

I know on the first diff screw I broke, it was too tight, the second one just snapped on me... Both times it snapped right in the middle...

The thing that drives me nuts is the battery coming out after a hard hit... During practice yesterday I lost it a few times... I ground the chassis out more and put a velcro strap around the outside of the battery and lasted me through some pretty wild crashes racing today...

Anyone know of any place that has the suzuki knuckles in stock? Not for me, I already have them....

Aku-Man

I bought my suzuki parts at hobbymania. I think they have the best price for Suzuki Alu. Upper Deck Support Mount.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Try the Tobee Craft cell seperators...

2Tenths

Thanks for the help. I do run a lot of AE black grease in the thrust bearing, but not on the spring, I should try that. I was running the older (?) style of diff screw with the threads all the way to the top (and it broke), and have now switched to the other style. As to the diff tightness, I had thought I saw that Chris Tosolini ran the diffs on foams: full tightness on the front, and one-quarter loosened on the rear, and this is where I was running them. From now on I'll run them a bit more loose than this and see how it goes.

Any advice on proper diff break-in? Do people just run diffs to break them in or do anything else?