Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

For diff break in, I like to hold one tire and let the motor run at low power for about 10 secs, then hold the tire on the opposite side and repeat. You should be able to adjust it at that point, and hopefully wont have any more problems.

marzin

Thanks I'll try them out!

IH

What cermaic bearing set for the SD would you prefer? Yokomo, Acer, ??? .

Has anyone tried the ceramic diff balls from acer. 19.99$ is alot of money for 8 balls

Thanks,
IH

sosidge

H is a different mould, as Matt described, with more material around where the driveshaft threads through. Material actually looks the same, but may be stronger as well. Newer SD's probably come with the H blocks as standard, I would guess it's a running change in the parts (modifying the old mould). G I haven't seen but since they are new out I would assume they are the H mould in Graphite.

Horatio

It's good to see Yokomo responding to these design flaws - flaws which have been highlighted to CML by numerous people, myself included. These obvious problems have been apparent to many racers using the the first examples of the SD SSG available here in the UK.

Let's hope the revised parts have arrived in time - unfortunately the SD SSG has already earnt itself a poor reputation as a very fragile car that lives up to it's nickname - brokeomo. This is a real shame as the car, when it holds together, is extremely quick when correctly set-up.

Hopefully the driveshaft issues have been dealt with too - cos they weren't right either!

I have been running the new Graphite arms and I find them to be lasting much better than the old style plastic arms. Is the reason for this the new material? Or have the arm moulds been improved as well? You'd have thought that the Graphite arms would be less durable! Are the new graphite carriers mouldings thicker too?

On a more positive note, I recently attended a 1000 lap endurance race and My Yok SD was not only on the winning team - it didn't break a single part during the event!! It was the ONLY SD that didn't break during the meeting All the other SD drivers emptied my spares box though

wcoyote

I've found a really simple solution on breaking diff screws I used this on my YZ. I went to the hobby shop and actually got some same size mm screws that were for Model R/C Airplanes. Haven't broken one since. And that would be in years. Remember cars aren't the only RC things that need screws.

kt racing

I'm running the acer. They really do make the diff smooth. But I guess that is your prefrence. Plus you won't have to change the ceramics. They will last a long time.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I've had great luck with the Acer bearings, but I'm pretty sure the Yokomo's will be just as good, just not as good seals.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I'll get some pics of my graphite C Hubs when I get my car back together, but they did have more material than the ones I pulled off when I broke..

Sleighty

If they have then i dont know about it!

Sleighty

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

What was wrong with the origional driveshafts?

Horatio

So what you're saying is that the G versions appear to come from the same mould as the new H versions, just as sosidge speculated? This is very good news!!

Horatio

Put quite frankly - they were shit!!

It strikes me that you were fortunate enough never to have witnessed the 'shit-ness' first hand because you may not have had the same batch as the ones us Brits had to endure. Same goes for the c-hubs, steering arms etc.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I'm pretty sure, but I didn't pay too much attention to the broken one, these just looked a hair beefier.

Horatio

Sleighty: mate! Now that they are addressing certain issues with the car, it would surprise me if the driveshafts weren't high on the list of 'revisions'.

In the meantime, remove the 'black crap' off the barrel that goes through the CVD end and open out the hole slighty with either a dremmel OR some fine wet n dry. If you're feeling clever you can also use some heat shrink to ensure the pin never comes out too - the grub screw has alot to do holding that shiny polished pin in place. Thread lock alone isn't enough - and I might add that any thread lock used has to be applied with surgical precision. If it gets onto the barrel, it will seize straight away. This can lead to the hubs, arms etc failing for no apparent reason.

BTW - I've witnessed first hand the friction welding thing that these shafts can do It's true.