12LikesYokomo MR-4TC SD
10-05-2003, 09:17 PM
#3676
RE: SD for sale
I run with a couple of full factory drivers for losi. I am getting tired of trying to reinvent the wheel with setups. Basically I am the only person driving a yokomo in my area. I primarly run on carpet in the winter with foam tires and I have been struggling with setup with the car. I have only used the car for about 3 weeks but Cleveland is getting closer every day.
It is tough to concentrate of driving and setup.
I drove Mike Dumas Losi and was very happy with overall grip and balance.
If you cant beat them join them!
I always liked the way the car worked on rubber tires.
It is tough to concentrate of driving and setup.
I drove Mike Dumas Losi and was very happy with overall grip and balance.
If you cant beat them join them!
I always liked the way the car worked on rubber tires.
10-05-2003, 09:47 PM
#3677
Originally posted by Kenneth Tan
I have used the exact same Yok carbon shaft without any problems for 4-5 consecutive mod races with 9-10 turn motors WITHOUT any problems... YET.
I have used the exact same Yok carbon shaft without any problems for 4-5 consecutive mod races with 9-10 turn motors WITHOUT any problems... YET.
If thats the case, good for you.
Will advise you these two things
1) Check the two cross pins on the end of the graphite shaft, they should line up. Mine dun anymore.
2) Take the graphite shaft out of the car. Hold the two cross pins in your hands and twist the shaft like how you squeeze dry a wet towel. A faulty shaft will twist about 20-30 degrees when sujected to that test, and feels 'rubbery'.
Cheers
10-07-2003, 01:08 AM
#3679
Originally posted by NightKidZ
Take the graphite shaft out of the car. Hold the two cross pins in your hands and twist the shaft like how you squeeze dry a wet towel. A faulty shaft will twist about 20-30 degrees when sujected to that test, and feels 'rubbery'.
Take the graphite shaft out of the car. Hold the two cross pins in your hands and twist the shaft like how you squeeze dry a wet towel. A faulty shaft will twist about 20-30 degrees when sujected to that test, and feels 'rubbery'.
Paul
10-07-2003, 01:15 AM
#3680
Originally posted by NightKidZ
Kenneth,
If thats the case, good for you.
Will advise you these two things
1) Check the two cross pins on the end of the graphite shaft, they should line up. Mine dun anymore.
2) Take the graphite shaft out of the car. Hold the two cross pins in your hands and twist the shaft like how you squeeze dry a wet towel. A faulty shaft will twist about 20-30 degrees when sujected to that test, and feels 'rubbery'.
Cheers
Kenneth,
If thats the case, good for you.
Will advise you these two things
1) Check the two cross pins on the end of the graphite shaft, they should line up. Mine dun anymore.
2) Take the graphite shaft out of the car. Hold the two cross pins in your hands and twist the shaft like how you squeeze dry a wet towel. A faulty shaft will twist about 20-30 degrees when sujected to that test, and feels 'rubbery'.
Cheers
10-07-2003, 12:45 PM
#3681
Personally, I'd recommend the Tobee Craft aluminum center shaft if you are having problems with breaking the graphite one. It is very light and I've been running it for monthes in 19T class with no problems. I do not know exactly how it compares weight wise, but it is definently lighter than the heavy Yokomo center shaft that comes in the kit.
10-07-2003, 03:38 PM
#3682
i think that going lighter and lighter in the drivetrain is just a gimmick. yes there are some advantages such as increased acceleration, but is it really so much of an advantage that you can say you lost a race because your center shaft was 7 grams heavier than the guy that beat you... i think not.
the important part it a drivetrain that is smooth and not binding, something that the yokomo already has.
the important part it a drivetrain that is smooth and not binding, something that the yokomo already has.
10-07-2003, 03:41 PM
#3683
Hey All, Just ran my SD for the first time in a race and i have to say, its the best handeling car i've ever driven. Man, all i did was point it in the direction i wanted to go and it went. However, for the first time ever, i had my CVD pins back out and eventually melted the plastic untill it broke. The righ one in the first qualifier and then the left on the 2nd qualifier. Guess i sould have put that heat shrink over then... Anyway, going to order the aluminum ones right now, so that atleast wont happen again!
Anyway, going to order the aluminum ones right now, so that atleast wont happen again!
10-07-2003, 04:12 PM
#3684
Anyone try the Shooters Graphite main shaft? I'm wondering if it's hollow like the original TC3 shaft or strandy like the Yokomo Graphite shaft. I think I'll stray away from anything that reminds me of a thick pencil lead....... 
10-07-2003, 05:18 PM
#3685
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Johnbull weighed the Yokomo lightweight shaft at 6 grams and the Tobee lightweight alum. one at 7 grams. The stock shaft was like 14 grams.
10-07-2003, 07:42 PM
#3687
Originally posted by AllPimpRacing
Hey All, Just ran my SD for the first time in a race and i have to say, its the best handeling car i've ever driven. Man, all i did was point it in the direction i wanted to go and it went. However, for the first time ever, i had my CVD pins back out and eventually melted the plastic untill it broke. The righ one in the first qualifier and then the left on the 2nd qualifier. Guess i sould have put that heat shrink over then... Anyway, going to order the aluminum ones right now, so that atleast wont happen again!
Hey All, Just ran my SD for the first time in a race and i have to say, its the best handeling car i've ever driven. Man, all i did was point it in the direction i wanted to go and it went. However, for the first time ever, i had my CVD pins back out and eventually melted the plastic untill it broke. The righ one in the first qualifier and then the left on the 2nd qualifier. Guess i sould have put that heat shrink over then...
Anyway, going to order the aluminum ones right now, so that atleast wont happen again!
10-07-2003, 08:18 PM
#3688
I'm put the titanium axels on mine with the stock shafts, my track still isn't open so I have yet to see how they hold up...
10-07-2003, 09:12 PM
#3689
I think the best solution to the front axles is to run the hardened front universals from the MR4-TC. You have to modify them a little but they are much stronger than the cvd's. All you have to do is gind the ball by the inner pins down flat and they fit right in. As for the main shaft, I have been running the tobee shaft for a few months, modified only, and it is still perfectly straight. I think it is the best option.
10-07-2003, 09:39 PM
#3690
So to use front harden axles/bones, you just need to order the Front set for a MR4TC (belted) car and flaten the ends at the pins right? Sounds easy enough. I may have to switch to them eventually.
Sounds like the Tobee Craft shaft is the one to have then. I wonder if superglueing the Yokomo Graphite Shaft will help it's strength some? I dunno, I'll play around with it some.
Sounds like the Tobee Craft shaft is the one to have then. I wonder if superglueing the Yokomo Graphite Shaft will help it's strength some? I dunno, I'll play around with it some.