JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Here are a couple of Pic's form the Tokyo Hobby show for you SD bubba's

Enjoy..

-Dave

forty6

Very interesting. Molded shock towers, no upperplate, and is that an adjustable battery tray?

sosidge

Doesn't look like an adjustable battery tray to me - the position of the battery strap looks firmly fixed. Also, disappointing to see a TC3 style cam for the motor mount.

2Tenths

Thanks for the great pics. I'll still be waiting for the graphite version though . I think that is the regular plastic molded one. Check out the heat sinking on the bottom of the motor mount! The cam design looks suspiciously similar to the TC3........

Kenneth Tan

iTrader: (1)

One good thing is that the lower motor mount is not integrated with the moulded chassis. This could mean we could have the ease of access to the motor as well as a tweak free design.

Roger

iTrader: (10)

theres a whole report on both RC World and RC magazine ( japanese rc magazines ) that have nice pix and information for this particular car.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

and I just got done with all my rayspeed conversion. At least all the molded stuff should be pretty cheap. I'll stick with the graphite plate stuff for the summer, no warped chassis's for me

James Nguyen

Matt,
Are you going to run the Rayspeed chassis this saturday? What setup are you going to start with?

James

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

James- I put it on my car last night My setup is bases on Adachi's newest on the rayspeed site except I'm in one on the shock towers and I'm running 3 deg toein

JesseT

After racing for a decade for Team Schumacher I now have bought a Yokomo SD. Are there any things I should know of when assembling the car? Things that are better done not the way said in the manual?
Also, if there are some hop-ups that actually are worth it, please mention. All information is welcome.

BR/ JesseT

sosidge

There's no hidden secrets in building the car - certainly nothing that someone with your experience will be confused by.

The only things I can think of are to note that the shock lengths are too short for almost any setup, and that the transmission may need a few shim adjustments once it has been run in.

It seems that you can change a huge number of the parts to after-market ones, but I don't honestly think any of the parts on the standard car are a weakness. All I've added is Atheena Projects shock towers so I can stand the shocks up a bit more. The Rayspeed chassis conversion is very tempting.

2Tenths

From my experience (trying all the different shimming combinations for hours ) I think the kit shimming is the best. Though it will not be as free as it could be at first, the gears will chatter less (less backlash) and after break-in, be fairly free. If you want a super free drive-train which is not durable at all, use 2 shims on the input shaft, and 2 on the longer side of the diff. This gives the gears probably too much backlash (and noise), but the drivetrain will spin forever (7 or 10 seconds or more) after break in.

For drivetrain break-in, run the car on the track rather than on the stand. On the stand, the drivetrain has no resistance, as there is no contact between the road and the tires (force of kinetic friction, or something). If you run the car on the track, the resistance is there, and the drivetrain wears in much faster, and is therefore a much more efficient use of time.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Only real hopups I can could suggest when getting started would be new axles and bones. Preferably the Harden Universals set for the belted MR4TC's. These are drop in replacement for the rears. But requires slight modification to the fronts... read a couple posts up. I use them in the rear right now. But I have Square Titanium axles/bones up front.

Also if you plan on using any of the RaySpeed springs, don't forget to buy the RaySpeed shock retainers/spring cups. If you don't get them, then you have to use AE spring cups and shock ends/ball cups.

A nicety would be aluminium front spindles. This'll keep the king pins from falling out. I believe the stock spindles/knuckles are 1mm trailing. The Team Suzuki Aluminium ones are .5mm trailing. And the new Yok ones have 0mm trailing.

Also rotating your servo 90° will give you more room for electronics. I think there are pictures of this a couple pages back.

Not too much else really. Other things are just tuning aids. But for a basic start, that's about all I can think of. Droop seems to play a large key to setup on this car for me. You might want to super glue a brass shim to the chassis where the droop screws touch. This will prevent the droop screw digging into the chassis and altering your droop over time.

Anyways, enjoy the car!

vtl1180ny

Ok... Has anyone had to weight the chassis to get the tweak to an acceptable setting??? Finally got a tweak board, mainly because I haven't like the way the cars been launching and it answered my suspicions... right rear was carrying a lot more weight...

2Tenths

vt: I've also noticed that adding weight on the motor side helps. I do not believe it is super super necessary, however, if you do not add weight to that side of the car, you will have to add more preload to the battery-side shocks. If you want the car to be perfectly balanced, though, you should probably add weight to the motor side, as well as using a lighter weight strapping tape instead of the heavy battery strap system. On my car I cut material out of the battery strap (it now weighs 12 grams) to lighten that side of the car, but I don't know whether it helped much (taping is a hassle). Basically, I would lighten the batt side before adding weight to the motor side.

A good way to tell whether the car is balanced is to take two small allen wrenchs (smaller than the screws on the car) and place them in the top screw on each gear box on both ends of the car. Then, lift the car up by the allen wrenches and see how tilted the car is. The flatter it is in the air, the better the balance is.