racer

Pyramid,

my kit was from one of the early batches. pre-ordered the car when it first came out. that explains alot. hopefully the spare parts won't have this problem.

Thanks!

EricF

Anyone know the part no. for the Tam. EVOIII motoer heat sink?

Headbanger

I dunno, maybe if you asked this Q in the Evil III thread, you'd get an answer.

kenix

#TA53399 Aluminum Motor Heat Sink (550 Yen)

rc_bam226

You can use the Tamiya or the TC3 heatsink from IRS, part no. IRS141

Barger

iTrader: (1)

Sigmund....The easiest way to mount your transponder is with a piece of lecsan between the two front body mounts,then drill a hole thru the center of the lecsan for your transponder.It then sits well forward and you do not have to put any holes in the chassis

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

I know that it's old news to you guys, but I just saw that Yokomo is releasing/has released a black version of the SD!!!

I've been a Yokomo fan since my YR4-M & M2 days. After selling my MR-4TC, bought a 414MII unaware that Yokomo was going to release a shaft drive car. When the shaft car was released, I was not thrilled because the silver chassis just didn't do anything for me.

But now that I see that Yokomo is offering a black version, I have a reason to celebrate!!!

I can now wear my Yokomo T-shirt again.

johnbull

Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

GEPPETTO.

Welcome back to the fold.

I run a couple of SDs these days. Great car.

If you want to see pics log into Yokomo USA gallery. They'll be about 6 pages back.

Good to see so many of the old Yokomo guys back. I wonder what's happened to SPEEDO ?

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

johnbull: Thanks. It's been nearly a year without having a Yokomo car. I was about to go into withdrawal.

The good news is that I'll get to drive a Yokomo again. The bad news is that outdoor season is just about over.

Oh well, I'll have all winter to fantasize about how well I'll do with the Yokomo next summer.

Meanwhile, I'll be racing 1/12th scale indoors during the winter.

utieh

iTrader: (3)

does someone have a reference for a set of shims to eliminate play between the hexhubs and the carrier? I know Tamiya is making one but I can't find the reference.
Thanks

Gilles

coolrcdad

Been off the thread for awhile. We just got the black main chassis plate from Japan and the countersunk holes were not done properly -- too small and shallow for the screws to sit flush. Hopefully this was a small production glitch as we need to get another. Center reinforcing rib was fine as was the top plate, however.

joe filletti

Hello are there any MR 4 SP still running?

thanks
Joe

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

I'm sure there's a couple people still running the old car but the vast majority of yokomo drivers are running the SD car now, It's by far easier to work on and setup.

yodace

iTrader: (8)

Hello folks,

I just ran my Yok Sg last night, I am running AE springs all the way around. Red in the front and blue in the rear 40 wt shock oil with pistions 3# all for corners, Front sway bar. I moved the shocks up one. Everything else is stock.
Treated asphalt. Four major straight ways.

At high speed going into a corner my car was loose with a rear sway bar. Will stiffer springs help? Please help.

Jeff Werner

iTrader: (30)

Yodace, one thing I have been messing with on my yok is adjusting the roll center of the car. I ran a XXXS for a couple of years and found that the biggest tuning change was raising and lowering the roll center on the front of the car (hinge pin height). Was really excited to find that what I learned on the losi transfered over to the yok sd. I found that my yok to was having a "whippy" feel going into a corner and getting really loose. I raised the front roll center by putting equal shims under the hinge pin mounts to raise them. This will take that whippy feel out of the car. Also one thing I had to do as well was go from 40 to 60 wt oil to slow the reaction of the car down to keep it from over rotating.

Hope some of this will help.

Jeff