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Old 02-12-2007, 01:33 PM   #166
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Thanks for the link. Is this a genuine Corally part?
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Old 02-12-2007, 02:38 PM   #167
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SlowerOne,
A trailing arm rotates on a different axis.
On a trailing arm you look at the car sideways to see the rotation of the arm.
On a standard lower arm, (ie with the Strut setup) you look from the front to see the rotation angle.
The Sp12M was a trailing arm, the pivot point was infront of the axle line.
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Old 02-13-2007, 03:07 AM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mha
Thanks for the link. Is this a genuine Corally part?
no worries, and yes it is
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Old 02-26-2007, 05:15 PM   #169
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Hello guys, a helpful vet at our track is helping me with the precise wiring and balance of my SP12x. Below is a section of our conversation:

For the gearing, I can tell you that you will want a 38t pinion and 88t spur at All Speed and 40t pinion at NorCal. That is with a 46mm tire for a rollout of 62mm at All Speed 65mm at NorCal. You can gear higher but at some point you start to lose drivability in the infield. I have used the 13.5 a lot and so have all my team guys so I think we have the gearing about optimum now. So the problem remains finding a spur with at least eight balls in a small diff ring size. I'll keep looking, maybe Robinson has something.

Allspeed is a small tight track, Norcal slightly larger. Do you guys know of any 88t Spur gears with at least 8 balls in a small diff ring size? How are you guys gearing the 13.5 BL motor?
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Old 02-27-2007, 09:37 AM   #170
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Xenon make 88 gears with 8 balls i think.
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Old 02-27-2007, 12:37 PM   #171
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yes, i am running a Xenon Spur, no problem at all. Another one that I have tried is a Kawada.
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Old 03-01-2007, 06:05 PM   #172
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Thanks for the info on the Spur Gear, I am trying to find online source to purchase a 64p 88t Spur with 8 balls in a small diff ring size. If you have a link to an online store, please let me know. I will try hobbyetc

Now i have a bigger problem, finding a long pinion gear in a 38-40t. Hwat pinions are you guys using in place of the Corally Long Boss?
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Old 03-02-2007, 05:08 AM   #173
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My tamiya pinions seem to work fine
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Old 03-02-2007, 12:18 PM   #174
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ok I bought an sp12x a few weeks ago and tried to run it and didnt get one pack run and broke 2 steering knuckels and a t plate lower pod plate and the spacer and none of the hits should have broke the car so I was going to sell it and have changed my mind for now I will give it one more shot I am new to 12 scale and had to get some help setting it up but no one at the track knows anything about the front end and it seems that all the fast guys run an AE front end

I have looked on the corally web site and all over the net and no setups anywhere and no explaination about the front end from corally the only one I found was on RCtech and it tell how to set the camber but thats about it no info on down travel or up travel info

I am not trying to blast corally here just a little lost and would like some ansers
any help anywhere

Thanks Brad
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Old 03-03-2007, 12:09 PM   #175
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I am by no means an expert on the car, mid pack at club level racing, but what I have found works ok for carpet is using the medium front springs from the 12m (or as close as you can find to a 1mm wire diameter with about 4 coils) with a tiny bit of preload on them, 1/2 turn past contact or so. the up stops I have set to bottom when the chassis bottoms out (zero ride height), the down stops are set to about 1/2 degree camber for the tires or whatever you need for even tire wear. take out the center screw on the back of the tbar, it will save the pod plate and spacer in a crash. I have been running the associated tbar (.075") and pivotballs, with a .030 spacer under the front pivot. its cheaper and more durable. corally light (red) tube lube, silver spring with 30 wt oil (Associated), down travel is zero limited by the shock length. tires so far are purple front dbl pink rear on low to medium bite with a stock or 19t. the front knuckles I havent had trouble with so far, try a wide bumper, crc makes one. there is also a listing for non ball bearing front knuckles, not sure if they will fit or not as I havent tried them

scott
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Old 03-03-2007, 12:19 PM   #176
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Im in the same boat. I understand how to adjust droop and rideheight, and thats about it. I tried to read the the post farther up this thread but i didnt really understand it.

Maybe someone can give a little deeper insight.

thanks
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Old 03-03-2007, 12:34 PM   #177
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i just fiddled around with it a bit more, and it turns out that the farthest screws on the left and right adjust camber, but now i noticed that there is a lot of play on the kingpins. Do I adjust the droop witht the spring collars now?
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Old 03-03-2007, 02:47 PM   #178
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droop is usually zero, the inner screws are for up travel, I have been running it with the screws contacting the chassis when the chassis bottoms out. the outer are for camber as stated above. the aluminium washers on the kingpins are for ride height. toe will change slightly with changes to ride height, so watch for that as it isn't extreme. I set the spring collars so that with no weight on the wheels the collar just touches the spring plus 1/2 to 1 turn. I also removed the plastic sleeve with the o-ring around it that sits between the chassis and the spring post, it seems to prevent bending the screws in a crash.

Scott
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Old 03-03-2007, 09:51 PM   #179
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Thanks for the explanation. I didnt understand the diagram at the top of the page when it said the outer screws adjust camber, downtravel, and rideheight, but then I set the camber and noticed that all of the said adjustments were altered, then you have to make the adjustments effected by adjustingthe kingpin and collars.

i was as far as the uptravel screws, what is the effect of more or less uptravel? The only thing I could hypothesis is that on a bumpy track you would want more up travel since you dont want to limit the travel of the springs, but on a smooth track you may not want as much suspension travel.
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Old 03-04-2007, 09:09 AM   #180
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sorry, I guess I should have given an order for adjustments. first thing to adjust is toe, just get it close as it will change a bit and you will need it set for accurate camber measurement, then set camber, just put a bit of preload on the springs to seat the outer setscrews (which are not used for rideheight), next set ride height with the kingpin shims. after that set the upstops. as a final go back to the toe and reset it. the only 2 settings that you should be adjusting after that are the kingpin shims for ride height, and toe as it typically changes slightly with ride height. something that I left off of my setup was that I use the centerpoint steering supplied with the kit and put the ballstuds in the outermost hole on the bottom of the knuckles.
I can't say for sure what the upstops do, but I figure that during cornering they will prevent the chassis from bottoming and losing side bite. Are you running asphalt or carpet?

Scott
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