pakk

iTrader: (80)

I hear/read that a lot. My tc5 drives good, but I would not call it great. I also don't drive great either.

As far as the splitting, again I don't drive great, it could have been a crash. I don't know. It really is not that bad. But for hacks like me, I'm going to need a new chassis sooner than others. Any plans to sell the chassis alone?

No I haven't *fixed* the angled steering link. Again, no binding at all. My steering is very free. The only way to free it up more would be to take the servo out. I'll fix it one day, but its on the back of the list as of now.

--pakk

chrisw

iTrader: (14)

My ball cups keep poppong off, i would like to replace them. Is there a better brand to use instead of the associated? any help would be appreciated.

pakk

iTrader: (80)

Check this thread out.

--pakk

IIGQ4U

iTrader: (53)

I never had a ballcup fall off except when I would adjust the toe. I replaced the ballcups on the steering rods with the black RPM cups.

Scooter79rs

iTrader: (9)

I noticed that the belts that came with my kit are actually shorter then the ones a bought as spares, so I swapped them and put in the R cam carriers in the high position which seemed to loosen the belts quite nicely. Hopefully loosening the belts will help me gain the .5-1 seconds that I need per lap.

IIGQ4U

iTrader: (53)

The angled steering link with the Futaba 9550 servo can be remedied with the Racer's edge black servo horn.
http://www.racers-edge.com/product_p/rce10380bk.htm
The horn will need to be shaved slightly at an angle to avoid hitting the top deck as it twists. I placed a black ball stud onto the front side of the servo horn and attached the linkage.

pakk

iTrader: (80)

is it remedied by allowing the horn to be closer to the servo? How long have you been using it? Do you also not use a screw like normal to hold the servo down? Photo?

I like it, I'll probably order that horn.

--pakk

IIGQ4U

iTrader: (53)

I have been using the horn since I purchased my TC5 in February. The horn is secured by screws on the sides as opposed to a single screw directly in the center. The design works as well as your typical servo horn mounting method.

fathead

Moving the the rear diff to the high position is quite a setup change, it will make the car feel quite different on and off power, it is not due to the belt tension it is to do with the driveshaft angle.

isuzuguy

iTrader: (1)

could u explane. further on that about the height change on the diffs ,what would it do?

steve eaves

iTrader: (74)

Losa 6017 for the type r perfect fit.

chrisfrom619

I'm using the 008 xray ball cups on mine. I heard RPM makes a good ones too the short version. What I did on mine before is drill a hole on top of the ball cup big enough for my hex driver to go through and not popping the cup out of the ball everytime I'm making changes.

Scooter79rs

iTrader: (9)

I noticed between the low and high positions that the belts were actually slightly looser in the high position compared to the low position, and I don't like how low the diffs are as they are almost poking the holes underneath the diffs which means the pullys and belts could get damaged by ashphalt. But I do like the angle of the drive shafts being near level when the car is sitting under its own weight.

pakk

iTrader: (80)

How much space is there between your servo and front bulk head? I know it is hard to see, in my photos, but mine is right against the bulkheads. Yours looks like there is a good amount of space. I could definitely straiten mine out just by moving it out. I have mine more in because I want more of the weight in the center. I know this probably doesn't help huge amounts, but my rack is also very free.

I thought that with the horn you have, you would have been able to put the horn on the other way. But from the looks of your photo, you can not.

I don't know if that makes sense to anyone else, but I need a horn that has the arm closer to the body of the servo. If I could find one, I would definitely be able to straiten my arm.

--pakk

IIGQ4U

iTrader: (53)

The servo is maybe 1.5mm from the bulkhead. The heatsink and fan that you have hanging on your motor will have a greater effect than the servo being placed right against the bulkhead.

The battery side on my car is the heavier side anyway.