best ball cup/ball stud combo
07-30-2009, 11:11 PM
#1
best ball cup/ball stud combo
I forget where, but I read that the losi ball cups were good. So I ordered some up. The part number is losa6016. They are a big long, so I had to cut them down. They do seem a lot better and give a nice "click" when I pop them on. But I still have a good amount of play.
I'd like to eliminate as much of it as I can.
So, is there a better ball stud?
--pakk
I'd like to eliminate as much of it as I can.
So, is there a better ball stud?
--pakk
07-31-2009, 12:01 AM
#2
Big balljoints (5.8mm, steel) Yokomo plus ZC 402 (Yokomo) eyelets. Balljoints come in a large assortment of threaded/unthreaded plus flanged, necked, tall necked or no neck with hex collar or without.
Small balljoints (4.3mm, steel) Yokomo with RPM cups. Balljoints again come in a large assortment of threads, shoulders, necks, etc. Plus they come in titanium as well. Original Yokomo cups are good too, but have a little bit of play in this combo. Where space is a problem, these may be used as they are significantly smaller than the RPM item.
Other than where mentioned above, these combinations are very smooth and have no play at all whatsoever and have a rather long life. I have never had one pop in a crash either but htis may be a problem if you'd rather one popped out than break something else. I usually break the hub carrier.
Good luck finding these.
Small balljoints (4.3mm, steel) Yokomo with RPM cups. Balljoints again come in a large assortment of threads, shoulders, necks, etc. Plus they come in titanium as well. Original Yokomo cups are good too, but have a little bit of play in this combo. Where space is a problem, these may be used as they are significantly smaller than the RPM item.
Other than where mentioned above, these combinations are very smooth and have no play at all whatsoever and have a rather long life. I have never had one pop in a crash either but htis may be a problem if you'd rather one popped out than break something else. I usually break the hub carrier.
Good luck finding these.
Last edited by niznai; 07-31-2009 at 12:18 AM.
RPM is the best,in my humble opinion.
07-31-2009, 01:02 AM
#4
True, and the Yokomo ZC 402 are just as flexible, that's why recommended those. I don't like the eyelets they have on Xrays or other cars either (they're way too stiff), nor the slop of the Tamiya cars.
Last edited by niznai; 07-31-2009 at 02:19 AM.
07-31-2009, 02:04 AM
#5
Ballends.Ball cups.What spaps first?
Big balljoints (5.8mm, steel) Yokomo plus ZC 402 (Yokomo) eyelets. Balljoints come in a large assortment of threaded/unthreaded plus flanged, necked, tall necked or no neck with hex collar or without.
Small balljoints (4.3mm, steel) Yokomo with RPM cups. Balljoints again come in a large assortment of threads, shoulders, necks, etc. Plus they come in titanium as well. Original Yokomo cups are good too, but have a little bit of play in this combo. Where space is a problem, these may be used as they are significantly smaller than the RPM item.
Other than where mentioned above, these combinations are very smooth and have no play at all whatsoever and have a rather long life. I have never had one pop in a crash either but this may be a problem if you'd rather one popped out than break something else. I usually break the hub carrier. That's OK by me to snap a hub carrier,instead of another part thats more of a PITA to change.The other option for those willing to accept the breakeage (sp) is the captured ballends by Rocket City but they are way fatter,available in 4-40,6-40 thread sizes. I broke one,once.Dubro #2317 is a brutally strong ball link replacement.They come with brass "balls",a little heavy.An RPM substitute would be the 1/4" Delrin balls #73181.Hard to find!(Losi lower shock balls). On my T-4,they are the best for the outer REAR camber links and the front steering arm ends. Then,you will snap the bell cranks!!!! My 2 cents. Dave in Seattle.
Good luck finding these.
Small balljoints (4.3mm, steel) Yokomo with RPM cups. Balljoints again come in a large assortment of threads, shoulders, necks, etc. Plus they come in titanium as well. Original Yokomo cups are good too, but have a little bit of play in this combo. Where space is a problem, these may be used as they are significantly smaller than the RPM item.
Other than where mentioned above, these combinations are very smooth and have no play at all whatsoever and have a rather long life. I have never had one pop in a crash either but this may be a problem if you'd rather one popped out than break something else. I usually break the hub carrier. That's OK by me to snap a hub carrier,instead of another part thats more of a PITA to change.The other option for those willing to accept the breakeage (sp) is the captured ballends by Rocket City but they are way fatter,available in 4-40,6-40 thread sizes. I broke one,once.Dubro #2317 is a brutally strong ball link replacement.They come with brass "balls",a little heavy.An RPM substitute would be the 1/4" Delrin balls #73181.Hard to find!(Losi lower shock balls). On my T-4,they are the best for the outer REAR camber links and the front steering arm ends. Then,you will snap the bell cranks!!!! My 2 cents. Dave in Seattle.
Good luck finding these.
07-31-2009, 02:16 AM
#6
Yeah, I should have mentioned, I only use metric sizes (threads). And no aluminium because when they break they usually leave a bit impossible to pull out from whatever they are stuck into.
07-31-2009, 01:19 PM
#7
Schumacher ball studs with RPM ball ends (AE size i think) work very well together, nice snug fit but not too tight. Dont eliminate all the play in your steering system, you need just a little to keep the car running in a straight line.
07-31-2009, 02:37 PM
#8
HPI
07-31-2009, 05:59 PM
#9
Suspended
The new schumacher ballj oints on the mi4 are THE best ball joint i've ever seen... (when I say ball joint I mean the stud and the cup assembly as one)
Tightest c**t to get off, but very free when on... perfect combination
Tightest c**t to get off, but very free when on... perfect combination
07-31-2009, 06:06 PM
#10
Thats how my cat was, they last for a long time like that to! The only slop (which is pretty much nothing) was in the steering belcrank.
07-31-2009, 06:56 PM
#11
I can't find the parts on racing-cars. I see the parts and part numbers in the diagram, but it doesn't seem to be available. Anywhere else I can look?
--pakk
--pakk
07-31-2009, 07:09 PM
#12
Call Adam or Shawn. They probably have some, the site just hasnt been updated. Other then that, maybe stormer? Im not sure
07-31-2009, 07:58 PM
#14
And they didnt bind anything up
