19LikesLosi Rock Rey Thread
05-22-2017, 08:27 PM
#106
Tech Apprentice
There is a locknut on the back of this screw; the TLR155 horn attaches to the plastic steering arm/link with ball link screw which is secured with a locknut.
So I got the TLR1555 servo horn but the screws that go from steering arm that connect the servo horn to the steering assembly don't thread in they seem to just fall into the servo horn and will slide right out. I bought new ones thinking they may be stripped. It the news ones are doing the same. Any suggestions?
05-23-2017, 01:04 PM
#107
Tech Rookie
I was out driving today bashing offroad in some mud, gravel, wet gras sliding and having great fun.
BUT
After 45 minutes the rear diff started slipping every time when I was fully accelerating or breaking. No problem when going reverse.
Going on 3s...
Did anyone have the same problem? The diff plastic housing seems ok. Probably the rear diff locker or the axel shafts or the pinion gear...
Have not had time to take the diff apart yet.
What Kind of upgrades can you guys recommend?
Or maybe it slipps at the Center gear - could not really locate the noise (like slipping gears)
Maybe the diffs just needs some new silicon Oil.
I would go with 15k front - 15k mid and 10k for the Rear One. Which type of oil do you use for the diffs and how often do you change / fill up the Oil?
Thanks
BUT
After 45 minutes the rear diff started slipping every time when I was fully accelerating or breaking. No problem when going reverse.
Going on 3s...
Did anyone have the same problem? The diff plastic housing seems ok. Probably the rear diff locker or the axel shafts or the pinion gear...
Have not had time to take the diff apart yet.
What Kind of upgrades can you guys recommend?
Or maybe it slipps at the Center gear - could not really locate the noise (like slipping gears)
Maybe the diffs just needs some new silicon Oil.
I would go with 15k front - 15k mid and 10k for the Rear One. Which type of oil do you use for the diffs and how often do you change / fill up the Oil?
Thanks
I finally had the time to look through center and rear diff.
The trouble was caused by the rear diff - the backside of the metal pinion gear had literally milled itself into the inner part of the front plastic housing of the rear axle and therefore had enough play (about 1 mm) to slide forward and backward. This was enough that it would slip off/loose contact to the rear diffs spur-gear when high torque / accelaration occured...
I dissasambled everything, sandpapered away all ridges from the pinion gear and simply put a metal washer between the plastic housing and the pinion gear. Now hopefully this should last a while -but some heavy grease between both parts and mounted the rear drifte shaft again (had to mount the shaft by 90° and drill an new hohle into the mounting end since the original hohles of the pinion gear shaft and the drive shaft no did not lign up exactly any more...
And now the RR rocks again!
I also ordered a new plastic housing, but I assume that it will be also be milled away at a certain level of time - so I hope my washer solution will last longer!
I also change the programm for the start mode from level 9 to level 6, so the initial punsh onto the driveshafts and diffs going at 3S is not as hard as before and this will hopefully prolong the lifetime of the drivetrain components.
05-23-2017, 05:53 PM
#108
Tech Apprentice
That's a pain! The Baja Rey guys are getting that on 3S and I think you might be one of the first unfortunate RR owners!
It could have simply been the mesh or a failed bearing but the reported cures are:
Careful shimming of the diff pinion and crown gear which a number say fixes everything.
Custom alum SSD or Metal Concepts third member as they are much more solid and have bigger bearings. They are very affordable.
Full housing like VP or MC which would be totally bulletproof but not cheap.
I think the thing to consider is that the RR on 2S is as fast as a Yeti on 3S so it's dementedly quick on 3S and TBBH, the housings aren't built for crazy speeds (they are far too thin). You will likely chew out the front bulkhead too eventually if your rear is going on 3S. No one makes this bit yet but I feel that the RR with a VP or MC rear and a alum bulkhead/gearbox housing would be a seriously tough truck and the additional cost pales compared to how weak the Yeti is and what that thing needs just to hold together at the speed of a 2S RR.
It could have simply been the mesh or a failed bearing but the reported cures are:
Careful shimming of the diff pinion and crown gear which a number say fixes everything.
Custom alum SSD or Metal Concepts third member as they are much more solid and have bigger bearings. They are very affordable.
Full housing like VP or MC which would be totally bulletproof but not cheap.
I think the thing to consider is that the RR on 2S is as fast as a Yeti on 3S so it's dementedly quick on 3S and TBBH, the housings aren't built for crazy speeds (they are far too thin). You will likely chew out the front bulkhead too eventually if your rear is going on 3S. No one makes this bit yet but I feel that the RR with a VP or MC rear and a alum bulkhead/gearbox housing would be a seriously tough truck and the additional cost pales compared to how weak the Yeti is and what that thing needs just to hold together at the speed of a 2S RR.
Update from me:
I finally had the time to look through center and rear diff.
The trouble was caused by the rear diff - the backside of the metal pinion gear had literally milled itself into the inner part of the front plastic housing of the rear axle and therefore had enough play (about 1 mm) to slide forward and backward. This was enough that it would slip off/loose contact to the rear diffs spur-gear when high torque / accelaration occured...
I dissasambled everything, sandpapered away all ridges from the pinion gear and simply put a metal washer between the plastic housing and the pinion gear. Now hopefully this should last a while -but some heavy grease between both parts and mounted the rear drifte shaft again (had to mount the shaft by 90° and drill an new hohle into the mounting end since the original hohles of the pinion gear shaft and the drive shaft no did not lign up exactly any more...
And now the RR rocks again!
I also ordered a new plastic housing, but I assume that it will be also be milled away at a certain level of time - so I hope my washer solution will last longer!
I also change the programm for the start mode from level 9 to level 6, so the initial punsh onto the driveshafts and diffs going at 3S is not as hard as before and this will hopefully prolong the lifetime of the drivetrain components.
I finally had the time to look through center and rear diff.
The trouble was caused by the rear diff - the backside of the metal pinion gear had literally milled itself into the inner part of the front plastic housing of the rear axle and therefore had enough play (about 1 mm) to slide forward and backward. This was enough that it would slip off/loose contact to the rear diffs spur-gear when high torque / accelaration occured...
I dissasambled everything, sandpapered away all ridges from the pinion gear and simply put a metal washer between the plastic housing and the pinion gear. Now hopefully this should last a while -but some heavy grease between both parts and mounted the rear drifte shaft again (had to mount the shaft by 90° and drill an new hohle into the mounting end since the original hohles of the pinion gear shaft and the drive shaft no did not lign up exactly any more...
And now the RR rocks again!
I also ordered a new plastic housing, but I assume that it will be also be milled away at a certain level of time - so I hope my washer solution will last longer!
I also change the programm for the start mode from level 9 to level 6, so the initial punsh onto the driveshafts and diffs going at 3S is not as hard as before and this will hopefully prolong the lifetime of the drivetrain components.
05-23-2017, 06:09 PM
#109
Tech Prophet
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Here's what my Baja Rey looked like. Along with the Metal Concepts aluminum one. Mostly 2s. Only a couple 3s runs.
05-23-2017, 07:36 PM
#110
Tech Apprentice
I just checked my RR and 3 months later the rear mesh is still near perfect (probably 0.2mm of movement) and all gears and bearings were in great condition a few weeks ago during a big pull down. It's had a lot of running with probably 10-15 3S runs with the rest being 2S simply to give the Yeti a fighting chance.
I think getting everything shimmed is probably half of it though that MC third member looks awesome (very beefy and solid). I'm honestly not sure if the whole VP axle housing is needed as it's not like the BR or RR is breaking axles. The front bulkhead/gearbox housing is needed as it's a pain to get to and I wouldn't personally want to replace gears and bearings there every few months. That and the SSD or MC third member and you'd probably call the above issues sorted and the truck likely would be seriously tough overall after that.
I think getting everything shimmed is probably half of it though that MC third member looks awesome (very beefy and solid). I'm honestly not sure if the whole VP axle housing is needed as it's not like the BR or RR is breaking axles. The front bulkhead/gearbox housing is needed as it's a pain to get to and I wouldn't personally want to replace gears and bearings there every few months. That and the SSD or MC third member and you'd probably call the above issues sorted and the truck likely would be seriously tough overall after that.
05-28-2017, 05:18 AM
#112
Tech Rookie
But still the Rock Rey runs fine with my washer Hotfix
05-31-2017, 11:05 PM
#113
Well, wife drove my RR into the Reservoir. She hollered and I came out and looked and it was floating upside down. Lol. I got a reel and rod and fetched it in. Servo stopped working so I bought a Savox 1211SG but the servo wire is a tad too short. Had to order a 3" servo extension along with the Losi aluminum servo horn. Can't wait to try it this weekend.
06-01-2017, 03:00 AM
#114
Tech Apprentice
They are pretty water tolerant so here's hope all's well for your RR!
Well, wife drove my RR into the Reservoir. She hollered and I came out and looked and it was floating upside down. Lol. I got a reel and rod and fetched it in. Servo stopped working so I bought a Savox 1211SG but the servo wire is a tad too short. Had to order a 3" servo extension along with the Losi aluminum servo horn. Can't wait to try it this weekend.
06-01-2017, 10:06 PM
#115
The servo is no special waterproof version at all. Servo got enough water in it to short out the position switch. The receiver is not protected at all from water either. It only has drain holes in the bottom of the case to let water out but the receiver seems to be fine. Will be able to tell more when I get my new servo installed and run the truck some more.
06-02-2017, 02:18 AM
#117
Tech Apprentice
My RX failed and I got a warranty replacement which I haven't yet tested (it's been in the parts box). The original had basically no water resistant coating that I could see via the naked eye. I have got my servo plenty wet...hope it continues to work though I haven't submerged it. I look forward to getting a far faster unit which is water proof though naturally with 4 trucks, lots of competing things pull me in various directions (limited RC money and too many things to tinker with).
It's a shame HH/Losi market the RX and servo as 'waterproof'...no wonder Traxxas make a big deal about the BS water resistant electronics from other manufacturers!
My wife has driven our Yeti and done donuts etc but basically has zero interest. Maybe she'd like the Traxxas TRX-4 as it's quite scale and shiny...maybe I need one to check her level of interest...purely her interests at in heart...lol
It's a shame HH/Losi market the RX and servo as 'waterproof'...no wonder Traxxas make a big deal about the BS water resistant electronics from other manufacturers!
My wife has driven our Yeti and done donuts etc but basically has zero interest. Maybe she'd like the Traxxas TRX-4 as it's quite scale and shiny...maybe I need one to check her level of interest...purely her interests at in heart...lol
The servo is no special waterproof version at all. Servo got enough water in it to short out the position switch. The receiver is not protected at all from water either. It only has drain holes in the bottom of the case to let water out but the receiver seems to be fine. Will be able to tell more when I get my new servo installed and run the truck some more.
06-03-2017, 08:50 AM
#118
LOL. Mine hasn't ever been interested either. I've been doing this since '91. Imagine now she don't wanna touch it for sure! LOL! I didn't even freak out. Just grabbed the reel and rod and fetched it and laughed. Oh I did rag her because she was the first one to get it wet! Bahahaha
06-03-2017, 08:53 AM
#119
My RX failed and I got a warranty replacement which I haven't yet tested (it's been in the parts box). The original had basically no water resistant coating that I could see via the naked eye. I have got my servo plenty wet...hope it continues to work though I haven't submerged it. I look forward to getting a far faster unit which is water proof though naturally with 4 trucks, lots of competing things pull me in various directions (limited RC money and too many things to tinker with).
It's a shame HH/Losi market the RX and servo as 'waterproof'...no wonder Traxxas make a big deal about the BS water resistant electronics from other manufacturers!
My wife has driven our Yeti and done donuts etc but basically has zero interest. Maybe she'd like the Traxxas TRX-4 as it's quite scale and shiny...maybe I need one to check her level of interest...purely her interests at in heart...lol
It's a shame HH/Losi market the RX and servo as 'waterproof'...no wonder Traxxas make a big deal about the BS water resistant electronics from other manufacturers!
My wife has driven our Yeti and done donuts etc but basically has zero interest. Maybe she'd like the Traxxas TRX-4 as it's quite scale and shiny...maybe I need one to check her level of interest...purely her interests at in heart...lol