Mirkinator

iTrader: (3)

Ive heard its a rebranded WP-SC8 and looks just like it, so i would expect it too, but I have yet to see anyone try it.

justinfaudeaux

Have you guy seen or try the Team Losi 8IGHT-T E 3.0 Electric Truggy? Pretty impressive. They definitely have great products.

RockRunner

My LCD programmer didn't work with the WP SC8 in the RR; nor the 1080 brushed ESC.

Mine is pretty new (this year) but maybe it needs a firmware update.

My VERY basic click LED programmer that came with the 1080 worked perfectly.

Bams RR

Was just wondering if I should lock the front diff to help with some stearing problems I am having when I take off from a dead stop.

NitroStar

Do you still have stock servo? Mine jerked to the left every time I took off. The AVC would fix it right UNTIL I had to replace my servo due to going off into the lake! I put a Savox SW1211SG servo in it and it's like a different truck. The AVC actually works perfect at about 35-40%. I also put the aluminum horn and bellcrank on it earlier also but the actual servo and horn make the most difference.

joey p.

So, I ran into an issue today after my friend landed his RR on top of mine. All of a sudden the car pretty much stopped moving. The Car is on, batteries charge, wheels steer, but the car stutters when you give er' gas and doesn't move.

The sound it made to me sounded like a gear was stripped but then we realized that the motor wasn't even turning. So tonight I took the thing apart and found two things. one issue, one concern.

The issue first: with the motor removed, I threw in a fresh battery and gave it some gas. It didn't even attempt to spin. It just rattled back and forth. If I gave it fill throttle it would just stop. Guessing this is my issue, but not sure if it is a motor problem or maybe an ESC problem. If I try to turn the pinion gear the motor feels like it is indexed. Not sure if that's normal. Thins is my first car in forever....

My Second Concern: Looking at my center transmission, along the seam there was a ton of dirt that seemed to gunk up due to oil seeping out. A quick wipe down reveled that the two halves don't mate up very well. There was also a ton of dirt on the inside. Is anyone making an alloy case for this? Or has anyone found a way to seal the case and the underside so that dirt doesn't find its way in?


I've been thrashing on this about 3 hours so far, so it's still pretty new.

Thanks

RockRunner

I found the 1211SG a serious upgrade with 444 oz/inch torque and with the fully locked up drivetrain, really hauls arse now in a straight line. None of that pirouetting randomly at any speed thing. I thought tyres were most of the problem but the servo makes a huge difference. Add some extra traction with the diff locking and you have a quickly accelerating truck as it is so much easier to keep pointed straight!

Downside of that servo is it's not waterproof. The most powerful Savox waterproof servo is only 277 oz/in which I run in my Bomber and SCX10. They have pretty good power though it's not huge for a crawler. I REALLY wanted the RR to point as straight as possible and am not as keen on dunking the RR as I am my brushed rigs so it wasn't a biggy.

Next mod is the aluminium Losi steering upgrade so the steering is about the best it can be. Then tyres and the SSD third member. I think I'll be about done then.

bigtim1985

Mine jerks to the left every time as well. On mine its from the truck twisting under acceleration and lifting up one of the front tires causing it to balloon and pull to one side. That's with a savox 1256tg and AVC disabled. I'm sure the AVC would straighten it out. I chalk it up the running 3s in a solid axle truck like this.

RC Bombshells

iTrader: (143)

Custom painted matte finish shell with all the graphics under the paint.

light

iTrader: (11)

I have had the screws that hold the ring gear onto the diff housings in all all 3 diffs snap and different times. has anyone found a stronger screw to replace the week ones supplied in the repair kit #LOS232004

thanks for any help

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

It should be easy to find those screws some someplace like Tony's Screws. You just need to measure the length and diameter of the original screws.

Soyer

iTrader: (7)

These are what I used been good so far
ProTek RC 2x8mm "High Strength" Flat Head Screws (10)

KR145

iTrader: (8)

Do the Kit Tires work decent or maby with a different foam?

What foams are guys using in the Pro Line Hyrax tires? Heard these tires are the goods...
Starting to build a kit, new here to this world (rock racing)...carpet on-road is a lot different ...lol

1FSTLS1

iTrader: (21)

I got the kit version. Can anyone recommend a good motor/esc combo? 2s-3s. Seems this 550 size motor and 4-6 pole gets confusing. Not sure if it is worth the extra $$ to go sensored or not. I have only ran 1/8 truggys for the past few years on and off.

King DORK

iTrader: (53)

I just acquired a near new Rock Rey rtr in trade from another member on here. The research I've done so far seems to favor locking both the front and middle diffs and sometimes the rear. Anyone try this and what are your suggestions for diffs. I actually want to slow it down a bit and make it a little more gears towards crawling but still be able to chase my dog Wilbur, aka, "Big Willy" around the yard. I plan on running 2s lipo.
Also, has anyone tried a Hobbywing 4000k (545) sensored 4-pole motor/sensored esc combo. They tend to be on par with most of the sensored 550 4-pole motors so thinking one should be capable in this rig.
Thanks fellas.