I searched the thread but simply can´t find the answer. maybe you can point me in the right direction.

I need a setup for european style track. medium sized, bumpy, low grip.

the mugens and other wide chassis cars seem to handle this better, i.e. drive way more forgiving with same lap times. I think this can´t be right ;)

how can I tame down the car a bit to make it more consistent and forigiving when pushed hard oj these surfaces? how can I setup this narrow chassis car to behave more like the wide chassis or for optimum results just in between?

hope you understand what I mean

I use joes outdoor setup, but with kit pistons. Really easy to drive, I use it on all kinds of tracks. And it works every where

yea same, joes rough setup with kit pistons is ok. tried dave hemenway suggestion from fb - middle dot in d block (a bit more toe in) and raised rear camber link one hole - viable option, but had to limit droop to 119 134, had too much roll on exit.
going to try stock joes rough setup with 3x2.1front or front and rear.

overall for me its easier to drive when you slow down and limit weight transfer via shock oil, springs, sway bars, camber links etc. and thicker front diff, like 10 7 5 or 8-7 5 5.

thank you, will try this.

how about stiffer anti roll bars? as my suspension is soft , the rolling makes the car unstable, already reduced droop and ride height, but this is not enough.

do you think a soft suspension with stiffer anti sway bars is worth a try?

Im running 2.5 in the rear. going to try 2.4 front.
before buying swaybars springs etc, if your rear camber link is in lower position on tower and car still rolls too much, you can try adjust rear roll center via C and D blocks - for less body roll dot up on both C and D blocks, if I`m not mistaken.
also if I recall correctly, Ryan lutz said on FB Q&A that by moving rear Hub forward (shorter wheelbase) you change driveshaft angle and it gives more support in corner

for those who switched to eb48.4 from other brands - mugen, kyosho, hb, what is your opinion about the car?

when looking at the tekno spring comparison chart, it´s obvious that the tekno springs are way softer than other manufacturers.

when I got it right. the stiffest tekno rear spring for eb48 is an already considered soft kyosho orange spring. is there an explanation for this?

Will this buggy take 2 x 2s hardcase long LIPOs with low profile 4/5mm bullet connectors?

Clearance between battery insert and body/driveshaft looks tight and there does not appear to be an option to offset the LIPOs. Thinking about buying this buggy but already have 8 of 2S hardcase and don't want to invest in single 4S.

Coming from a Mugen, I find the Tekno suits me better as my laps times proved that instantly. It responds well to adjustments as well as having the ability to be setup aggressive or laid back. Everytime I look at a "wide chassis" car now, I'm thinking "grand piano". 2 acres of real estate slapping down with authority.

Will this buggy take 2 x 2s hardcase long LIPOs with low profile 4/5mm bullet connectors? There does not appear to be an option for offsetting the batteries and clearance looks tight between battery and body/driveshaft. Most of the pictures online show 4s packs.

Thinking about buying this buggy but I have already have a large number of 2S hardcase and don't want to invest in new 4s packs.

It's about leverage and where the shock mounts to the arm. Tekno shocks are mounted closer to the wheel end of the arm, so they require softer springs and longer shocks to get the same wheel rate and travel.

rule of thumb, don't try to do or compare anything that involves a Tekno shock to any other manufacturer. As others stated, the unique geometry of the car requires different shocks. I thought my buddies were going to choke when I told them I was running 3x2.1 pistons. :lol:

try drilling out 2 of the 1.9mm holes to 2.0mm, worked really well for me.

so I heard 7-7-5 ptrc = 5-5-3 ae. what about losi diff oil?

You'll get many answers from this question. If you want to save yourself the headache and not second guess the accuracy of the many answers you get, just run the PT oils and forget about the conversions.

Unless someone has the proper equipment to measure oil viscosity, most answers to this question is based on "feel". With "feel", EVERYONE has their own standard.

I fought this battle early on as I was heavily invested in both Losi and Mugen oils. I had a few conversion charts, website calculators, a buddy's opinion....

It wasn't until I finally bit the bullet and just bought the PT oils (what the majority of the Tekno team uses), that I was able to rely on the oil recommendations from others on the team.